Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard and Poli-Seal Problem

With all due respect Chris, you are again contradicting Dr. G. as quoted above in this thread. Surely, you can’t have it both ways. Back in April when Dr. G last contradicted your advice, he stated that PS could be used to remove high spots without any necessity to re-apply. Now I think you are inferring that if PS is used within a potential 2 month period it will totally remove the OC/OG.

Could I please request that you ask Dr. G for his comments?

Dave,

We appreciate all the testing that you are doing with the Optimum Coatings and any other Optimum Car Care product which will help us as well as all the users. First let me clear the confusion you have about Chris's replies and my responses being different or contradictory. Chris and I discuss the product questions regularly and we are in full agreement on what we have stated, however, I think there are some misinterpretations or extrapolations people make well above and beyond what we state.

Now to answer your questions, as Chris pointed out, Poli-Seal can be used to remove high spots as we have pointed out as a simple way to correct misapplications specially if the coating has not had a chance to fully cure/harden. Therefore, if you use Poli-Seal on fairly fresh coating, you can remove it fully as well specially if you used our new microfiber pads that also unnecessarily add to the aggressiveness of the process. So first of all as Chris pointed out, there is no need to polish the fresh coating before applying a second coat (we do not see a need for multiple coats as Chris pointed out, however, we leave it up to the users to choose their preferred methods). If you do decide to polish the coating after the coating has fully cured in preparation for applying additional layers of the coating, you should use Optimum Finish with a finishing pad and not Poli-Seal since the latter can interfere with the bonding and requires an extra step of removing waxes and sealants from the surface. I would also strongly recommend against using microfiber pads in this process since they have more cut than necessary.

Again, I appreciate all the time and effort you are spending on testing Optimum products and sharing your results which helps everyone on the forum. As it is evident also Chris and I have tried our best to support your efforts and respond to your questions as accurately as possible although there has been some misunderstandings or misinterpretations of what we have stated. Please keep us posted of your results and I hope that you follow the recommendations Chris and I have made to help your process more effective. Thank you.

Best Regards,
David
 
I don't understand why you were using PS in between layers. What was your goal in applying multiple layers?what results were you attempting to achieve?

Here is my problem with the method you mentioned. If this was a normal sealant or wax you would not re-polish in between layers but that's exactly what you are doing between costs of OC. That doesn't make sense to me. Also if you just did a neighbors car in September it seems polishing with PS is unneeded.

If you want a slick feeling from a coating then maybe you should look for a different product.
 
Chris,



That is an interesting comment. Why don't you post the link to your forum of the conversation in April between yourself, Dr. G and myself and then let others be the judge. You may surprised to find what others think.

PS Could you pm David's email address. I'd rather write than have to call the US.

Because its against Autogeeks forum rules to link to other forums or stores...and I'm certain anyone curious can google the address and search for posts by you.

Contact information is available at Optimum's main site. I will ask him to comment here if you'd rather just wait.
 
Hi Twister

I don't understand why you were using PS in between layers. What was your goal in applying multiple layers? what results were you attempting to achieve?

If you read the original thread, you will find that I was in an experimental mode. In experimental mode, I been known to attempt things that some people may find weird. That is why I call it experimental mode. I’m not trying to justify anything – just reporting back on what I found. I can’t claim that all experiments are successful and the results may or not be of use to others – but does it really matter if someone attempts something that maybe others haven’t. My full time job is programming and I can assure you, the time I take off every year to experiment with various algorithms has been amply rewarded over the years. To be honest there has been some complete stuff ups too. I find it is not too much of a stretch to apply the same principals to paint correction.

Here is my problem with the method you mentioned. If this was a normal sealant or wax you would not re-polish in between layers but that's exactly what you are doing between costs of OC. That doesn't make sense to me.

I agree, but if you don’t experiment, you’ll never know the answer to the question that may have intrigued you in the first place.

Also if you just did a neighbors car in September it seems polishing with PS is unneeded.

Again I agree, but at this point I need to confirm an observation with a convenient vehicle that I know has never been touched with Poli-Seal to confirm the safe two month period that Chris referred to. Don’t worry, I will report back just as soon as it is done and depending on the result, this thread might just roll on.

If you want a slick feeling from a coating then maybe you should look for a different product.

Yes sure, you could use Optimum Car Wax as an example, as I mentioned, and by pass any application of Poli-Seal.

I hope some of the above makes sense to you, but please don’t worry too much if it doesn’t.
 
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