OPticoat 2.0 sheeting

I like the coating concept but after tried multiples coatings, I would go for any durable sealant anyday :D
Not that they are bad but like swanicyouth said "is it worth"?
I like this quote:
"Use what you like and use it often"
and... Buy it often too :D
 
swanicyouth said:
IMHO all coatings hydrophobic characteristics will start to fade after day 1.
Click to expand...

I don't care who you are, pro or not, if you have durability issues with a coating, it is not the product but the installer. Of course there are 2 camps. Permanent and semi permanent. With the semi ones, you are right. Although I doubt that one could see a difference after day 1. They deserve way more credit than that.

As far as your opinion, tell me you see a difference. I would post the first wash, but it isn't in HD and looks pretty bad, but I can assure that it looked just like these 2 rinses.

OPTI COAT PRO AFTER 8 MONTHS

[video=youtube_share;cajbcMjvk3E"]8 months old Opti Coat Pro - YouTube[/video]

OPTI COAT PRO AFTER 11 MONTHS

[video=youtube_share;DztOHBlPVGQ"]Opti Coat Pro 11 months - YouTube[/video]
 
^ looks great to me.

But, you have to admit - there are numerous people who have had issues with OC 2.0 loosing it's hydrophobic properties over time. It's holding up well for me after 2 years on the roof of my SUV.

So, you could say it's the installers fault, or you can look at it from the other side and say it's a product that many found too finicky to install correctly.

Either way, the OP didn't wash his car correctly for like a year - so no wonder there was issues.
 
If one can't install OC2.0 properly, one should hire someone who can. It was as easy to apply as it can get. I can't overemphasize how it is the installer. Not the product, otherwise we would all run into the same problem.


swanicyouth said:
^ looks great to me.

But, you have to admit - there are numerous people who have had issues with OC 2.0 loosing it's hydrophobic properties over time. It's holding up well for me after 2 years on the roof of my SUV.

So, you could say it's the installers fault, or you can look at it from the other side and say it's a product that many found too finicky to install correctly.

Either way, the OP didn't wash his car correctly for like a year - so no wonder there was issues.
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
If one can't install OC2.0 properly, one should hire someone who can. It was as easy to apply as it can get. I can't overemphasize how it is the installer. Not the product, otherwise we would all run into the same problem.
Click to expand...


IMHO, not necessarily true.

I remember when Ford came out with the 4.0l Explorer. Those engines leaked oil terribly from the valve cover and intake. Replacements of the gaskets was finicky - a lot of times they would leak again in 6 mos.

If a product is super sensitive to installation, a large number of failures may result from how finicky the product is. For whatever reason, OC 2..0 seemed to me to fall into this class.

Maybe it was the lack of a dedicated prep product?

Maybe it was difficult for people to judge adequate coverage without causing high spots?

Maybe it was the often confusing (and contradictory) advice we got from Optimum regarding proper prep and installation?

It really doesn't matter, because they don't make it anymore.
 
If installer A has good durability with 2.0, and installer B is having issues, it tells me that there is a big difference in skill levels. Not the product. Yes, 2.0 is no longer, but the other coatings will have similar issues with installer B.

swanicyouth said:
IMHO, not necessarily true.

I remember when Ford came out with the 4.0l Explorer. Those engines leaked oil terribly from the valve cover and intake. Replacements of the gaskets was finicky - a lot of times they would leak again in 6 mos.

If a product is super sensitive to installation, a large number of failures may result from how finicky the product is. For whatever reason, OC 2..0 seemed to me to fall into this class.

Maybe it was the lack of a dedicated prep product?

Maybe it was difficult for people to judge adequate coverage without causing high spots?

Maybe it was the often confusing (and contradictory) advice we got from Optimum regarding proper prep and installation?

It really doesn't matter, because they don't make it anymore.
Click to expand...
 
As mentioned earlier the car wasn't washed properly for long stretches of time many, many months.

I still have oc 2.0 in a syringe and will be re-applying it next week. I wasn't able to last weekend because of weather issues. Anyways, I think a big problem for me was the embedded contaminants they ARE a big problem for hydrophobicness. After claying the panels, water sheds off pretty good, but the panels are marred as well. I should have simply done multiple washes with ironx, trix, and royal brown in between to chemically dissolve the contaminants as opposed to claying. That way, I may have recovered some water shedding without marring the paint.

Anyways, I don't know how much of a problem this would have been for someone who washes their car weekly, so it's hard to say if its the products fault, my fault during installation, or obviously lack of care after installation. I think it is the latter.

Beyond this point, I still think that reapplying it 1.2 yrs later is reasonable in my estimation. And I probably won't have to do it again for longer than that, so long as I chemically remove contaminants once in a while and/or just wash the car well on a reg basis.

With all that said, my only other concern is: SHOULD I APPLY OPTICAT 2.0 TO MY WINDOWS?

I have a ton of opt 2.0 and can spare some on the glass surfaces (passenger windows, sunroof, rear glass, maybe even windscreen). My concern is scratches being visible on the opt surface on glass.... I dont think anyone has asked that question before. Will opticoat 2.0 on glass show scratches\swirls? Obviously glass on its own doesn't.
 
I am not sure what you mean by ""My concern is scratches being visible on the opt surface on glass""

Of course put it on the glass. Windshield you can, but the wiper blades will abrade OC away eventually.
 
QuickCln said:
Anyways, I think a big problem for me was the embedded contaminants they ARE a big problem for hydrophobicness. After claying the panels, water sheds off pretty good, but the panels are marred as well. I should have simply done multiple washes with ironx, trix, and royal brown in between to chemically dissolve the contaminants as opposed to claying. That way, I may have recovered some water shedding without marring the paint.
[/B]
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I think you nailed. You have to polish after clay, micro marring is the collateral effect of removing stubborn embedded contaminants. A coated car is not a guarantee it won't happen.
I avoid claying a coated car coming back for revision, I prefer stepping up the chemicals in the car wash, like ironx, trix and the kind.
Maybe sometimes, in some special cases, like a combination of some bright colors and hard painting systems and very soft clay type, you can get away claying without marring. I don't take chances, unless I'm ready/willing to redo the work. Best regards
 
QuickCln said:
As mentioned earlier the car wasn't washed properly for long stretches of time many, many months.

I still have oc 2.0 in a syringe and will be re-applying it next week. I wasn't able to last weekend because of weather issues. Anyways, I think a big problem for me was the embedded contaminants they ARE a big problem for hydrophobicness. After claying the panels, water sheds off pretty good, but the panels are marred as well. I should have simply done multiple washes with ironx, trix, and royal brown in between to chemically dissolve the contaminants as opposed to claying. That way, I may have recovered some water shedding without marring the paint.

Anyways, I don't know how much of a problem this would have been for someone who washes their car weekly, so it's hard to say if its the products fault, my fault during installation, or obviously lack of care after installation. I think it is the latter.

Beyond this point, I still think that reapplying it 1.2 yrs later is reasonable in my estimation. And I probably won't have to do it again for longer than that, so long as I chemically remove contaminants once in a while and/or just wash the car well on a reg basis.

With all that said, my only other concern is: SHOULD I APPLY OPTICAT 2.0 TO MY WINDOWS?

I have a ton of opt 2.0 and can spare some on the glass surfaces (passenger windows, sunroof, rear glass, maybe even windscreen). My concern is scratches being visible on the opt surface on glass.... I dont think anyone has asked that question before. Will opticoat 2.0 on glass show scratchesswirls? Obviously glass on its own doesn't.
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I can tell you i dont think it was your washing processes . I applied cquartz uk last year.
the beading and sheeting was unbelievable. i loved washing and blow drying it to see how the water just flew off. i wash the car every week but after a year it just doesnt shed the water like when i first applied the coating. i just used the nanoskin to decontaminate it and applied some reload. i will see in a few days when i wash what kind of sheeting i get
 
By scratches on glass i mean swirl marks now possible on glass because of the opticoat. If i put opticoat on my windows, i can accidentally put swirl marks on them now. From my experience non coated glass does not swirl easily if at all... ever.

Isn't this a valid concern? Thanks in adv
 
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