OptiCoat questions

It will stick around a little while. Probably enough for your purposes as much as you wax.

Problem is you would be temporarily and partially compromising one of it's key benefits. OC, CQ, and other coatings stay cleaner than wax and wash easier than wax

Corey you bring up an interesting point, one that I’ve been mulling over ever since I started using OC/OG many months back. However I think you are neglecting what I would call normal paint maintenance.

I think that you would agree that if you have prepped your paint and applied OC/OG correctly you should see beading like no other product. However at some point in the future the OC surface is going to need maintenance. At that point you are going to change the beading properties of OC and the paint surface will then assume the beading properties of whatever product you use. Some of us don’t like the non slick feel of an OC application, so we immediately top it with Poli-Seal (PS) and then maintain after washing with Optimum Car Wax (OCW). For others reading, as Corey already knows this, this is a standard recommendation by Dr. G for maintenance of an OC application. I also presume that their latest product the spray able version of PS, GPS could be substituted for PS.

My point is nothing lasts forever, therefore maintenance will eventually be required and hence the beading characteristics of your finish will change, but the underlying protection of OC should not be affected. I maintain my family’s vehicles and all the vehicles have been OC’ed or OG’d and maintained the same way. Two of the vehicles aren’t garaged and so I get to observe the beading characteristics each morning after it has rained. Both these vehicles are normally washed once a week but don’t always have OCW applied after each wash due to time constraints, but they do bead reasonably well. I certainly wouldn’t call the beading fantastic, the vertical surfaces are very good, the horizontal not so good, but they always look perfect after they have been washed and require minimal care.

So the question I’ve been mulling over the last 6 months is has the OC’d surface really made a difference to the appearance and maintenance of these vehicles. In all honesty I can’t really say. I doubt that my previous regime of BFWD would have held up as long as from past experiences it would have had to have been repeated at least a couple of times within that period to achieve the same results.

I can also easily observe a number of neighbour’s car that I have OC’d. None of these vehicles are particularly well maintained. None have had PS and OCW applied and these vehicles still bead well after rain. Since I haven’t washed any of them, I can’t report on the actual finish, but from the distance they do look good.

Layering OC/OG

This brings me to the subject of layering OC. I was not aware until a day or two ago that you could layer OC/OG, but I’ve often thought about trying. Well the following experiment may shed some more light on the change in beading characteristics of OC. I probably should make this a new thread, but since you seem to experiment about as much as I do, I’ll tack it on to here.

This experiment wasn’t originally about OC, but about MF pads. On the last couple of corrections I had done I decided to try MF pads and D300. I wasn’t overly impressed with D300 as compared to M105, but I would say it is a reasonable product to use as an intermediate polish after M105 much the same as one would use Menz P0203S after M105. What did impress about the D300/MF is that it appeared to flatten the paint adding greater clarity to the paint. I surmised that the thinness of the MF pad and the extra pressure required for D300 was the reason for this flattening affect. This gave me the idea that perhaps the MF polishing pad with either 85RD or Optimum Final Finish (OFF) might be able to approach the type of finish that you can get with 85RD on blue with a rotary.

I’ve never been impressed with either a blue pad or black pad using 85RD with a DA as I think the pads are too soft for 85rd used with a DA. The only pad I’ve ever had reasonable results for jewelling with 85RD with a DA is the Crimson pad, so consequently I’ve always finished with a rotary.

As I didn’t have enough time available while doing the corrections, I decided to do the experiment on the already OG’d bonnet of my car. While the MF polishing tests themselves where interesting in that both products produced a better finish on this car than I’ve ever seen before with a DA (still not as good as the rotary) I’d still would like to do some more testing on different paints before coming to any definite conclusions re the MF polishing pads. While doing the test I read about the ability of the new OC/OG to do layering, so since my present syringe of OG was the new stuff, the experiment got expanded to include layering of OG.

After the polishing and prep was complete, I OG’d the bonnet and waited about 22 hours before attempting the second coat. Prior to the second coat/layer I thought I’d try a light polish with PS on a red pad in an attempt for the ultimate finish. This was about when the test started to go pear shaped. Obviously because the PS contains some Carnauba, I needed to re prep the surface again to ensure a squeaky clean surface for the OG, so I used my normal prep which is the equivalent of your Dawn dishwashing liquid. I don’t like IPA at any concentration and have always preferred to use a strong detergent to remove polishing oils in preparation for OG or any other sealant. Obviously this last step of final polishing with PS between layers is something I haven’t done previously. When rinsing off, I immediately noticed absolutely no beading at all. The surface was dead flat with the water just sitting there. So what happened to the beading and the OG?

We all know detergents won’t remove OG, so that just leaves PS that must have done the damage. I really find this surprising and don’t actually have any explanation for it, because Dr. G and Chris have stated many times that PS is perfectly safe to use on OC and it will not compromise the protection provided by OC. From this experiment that certainly doesn’t appear to be the case.

I’d be really interested if you or anyone else would repeat this test just to confirm that you too get the same result.

I’ve since added the second layer of OG without any problems. It is has now been 24 hours since the second coat and I’ve repeated the detergent washing routine and the OG is beading just like you would expect, so the only obvious conclusion is that the PS removed the first coat of OG.

Chris I hope you are reading this and would pass along my comments to Dr. G. I’d be very interested in his response.

To anyone reading this please don’t confuse the issues here. My concern is not about layering OG, that test was certainly successful. However the layering test did introduce a new problem (PS removing OG) that I was not previously aware of.

My apologies for the very long post, I should have made it a separate thread.
 
no worries, as you can see from this thread and a couple others I am thinking about putting it on my car soon because the Acura paint is ridiculous...I'm just curious how it will play out with my other products.
 
Some of us don’t like the non slick feel of an OC application...

I'm one, occasionally I spritz lightly with M34 prior to residual wipedown after blowing off the water.

...so we immediately top it with Poli-Seal (PS) and then maintain after washing with Optimum Car Wax (OCW). For others reading, as Corey already knows this, this is a standard recommendation by Dr. G for maintenance of an OC application.

Not that the good Dr. would shill his products but he does make money recommending his own stuff.

This brings me to the subject of layering OC. I was not aware until a day or two ago that you could layer OC/OG, but I’ve often thought about trying.

I've discussed this with Chris a few times, neither of us see any value to layering OC if you achieve even coverage. I do see an advantage if you need to recoat a spot polish or remove light sctratches etc... it saves you repolishing an entire panel. YMMV.

TL
 
Chris, is there going to be any elaboration on the changes to OC/OG? When OC 2.0 came out, IIRC it was stated that the only change in creating OC 2.0 from the original OC was a change in the carrier solvent.

Now you've stated that you've changed the resin, as well as the carrier for OG, which brings up a whole slew of questions. Is the durability the same? Does the fact that OC will now stick to itself mean that other things will stick to it better as well? Does this "stickiness" mean that toppers (such as QD's/LSP's) can be successfully used to provide tactile slickness to OC/OG?

What differentiates OC and OG now if OG no longer has the shorter flash time "that pro detailers need to increase throughput"?

It is just tweaks not a reformulation. We always improve and never backslide, so of course the durability is the same. The major resin changes were made to the pro version so there's really not a significant change for Opti Coat 2.0 users. We did not set out to make it layer, we just noticed that you could now. You won't see any changes with stuff sticking to it LSP or containment wise. If you want it to feel slicker top it with OCW or Poli Seal. Opti guard is more concentrated and still cures faster. The main reason Opti Coat 2.0 works longer is because it's less concentrated but this has always been the case and is no change.


Sent from my IPhone
 
Chris,

If you want it to feel slicker top it with OCW or Poli Seal.

I hope you read what I posted about Poli-Seal. I'd be interested to hear back from you after you perform the same test as outlined in my post.
 
Chris,



I hope you read what I posted about Poli-Seal. I'd be interested to hear back from you after you perform the same test as outlined in my post.

You covered a lot of ground, so I'll reply as I have more time. Maybe by tomorrow afternoon.
 
You covered a lot of ground, so I'll reply as I have more time. Maybe by tomorrow afternoon.

I apologise for the length, but really the only concern I have is the undesired action of the Poli-Seal.

I'm now repeating some tests with some other mild polishes to see if I can come up with a replacement for the Poli-Seal that wont ruin the OG.
 
It is just tweaks not a reformulation. We always improve and never backslide, so of course the durability is the same. The major resin changes were made to the pro version so there's really not a significant change for Opti Coat 2.0 users. We did not set out to make it layer, we just noticed that you could now. You won't see any changes with stuff sticking to it LSP or containment wise. If you want it to feel slicker top it with OCW or Poli Seal. Opti guard is more concentrated and still cures faster. The main reason Opti Coat 2.0 works longer is because it's less concentrated but this has always been the case and is no change.


Sent from my IPhone

What is different between the and new and old version of opti-guard? I still have an extra new unused syringe of opti guard(original opti coat label). Is it possible to exchange it for the new formula if its better?
 
The main reason Opti Coat 2.0 works longer is because it's less concentrated but this has always been the case and is no change.

Yikes, that's the first I remember hearing that! I thought OG and OC 2.0 were the same except the OC 2.0 used a less-volatile solvent. If OC is actually less concentrated, that would imply it results in less film-build and less longevity.
 
...After the polishing and prep was complete, I OG’d the bonnet and waited about 22 hours before attempting the second coat. Prior to the second coat/layer I thought I’d try a light polish with PS on a red pad in an attempt for the ultimate finish. This was about when the test started to go pear shaped. Obviously because the PS contains some Carnauba, I needed to re prep the surface again to ensure a squeaky clean surface for the OG, so I used my normal prep which is the equivalent of your Dawn dishwashing liquid... Obviously this last step of final polishing with PS between layers is something I haven’t done previously. When rinsing off, I immediately noticed absolutely no beading at all. The surface was dead flat with the water just sitting there. So what happened to the beading and the OG?

We all know detergents won’t remove OG, so that just leaves PS that must have done the damage. I really find this surprising and don’t actually have any explanation for it, because Dr. G and Chris have stated many times that PS is perfectly safe to use on OC and it will not compromise the protection provided by OC. From this experiment that certainly doesn’t appear to be the case...

I’ve since added the second layer of OG without any problems. It is has now been 24 hours since the second coat and I’ve repeated the detergent washing routine and the OG is beading just like you would expect, so the only obvious conclusion is that the PS removed the first coat of OG...

While 22 hours is plenty of time for Opti Guard to flash and crosslink, it will not be fully hardened (polishable) for over a month. My posts recommending Poli Seal were regarding cleaning maintenence after a few months. I'm certain that this unnecessary step fully removed your first layer. The only thing necessary between layers 22hrs apart would be an ONR wash. There may be a point after fully hardening that you can no longer layer the coating, but after a few days or weeks it is still possible. This is a welcomed improvement over the original release of the pro version which hardened VERY fast leaving little room for error or reapplication. It should be noted that most users here are using Opti Coat 2.0 and not Opti Guard which we are discussing. Opti Coat 2.0 users will never notice the difference in application, though neither should be polished so soon unless removal is the desired goal. We deliberately made the consumer version easier to apply, correct and remove to buffer the learning curve.

Yikes, that's the first I remember hearing that! I thought OG and OC 2.0 were the same except the OC 2.0 used a less-volatile solvent. If OC is actually less concentrated, that would imply it results in less film-build and less longevity.

Wow, I'm not sure that information deserves a "Yikes!" response? I'll try and explain:

The solvent change was made to the pro version prior to releasing to the consumer version. The the difference to the resin was a minor tweak that prolonged the hardening to allow for a longer work time...same resin, slightly modified...but produces the same longevity and functionality while easier to use. Yes, Otpi Guard is more concenrated, but as the solvents flash away and the coating starts the process of dehydrating/hardening you will be left with a nice, even coating with either product.
The goal with either product is full coverage...not thickness.

This whole layering thing may be a product of the Zaino line which required multiple layers to achieve a certain look with extended durability. Layering is necessary for degenerative products that "wear off" with exposure to chemicals and environments, but it is simply not necessary with our coating. Whether the coating is 1 micron, 2 microns, etc. doesn't matter because it will not wear away. The same protection will be there years later. It is really not relevant which version you use or how thick it is applied from a performance POV. I'm sure there are companies that would deliberately continue to manufacturer in order to have you buy more product...and I'll be happy to sell you enough OC to layer as much as you like, but you'd be better off to save that money for gas and just apply a single coat.
 
The solvent change was made to the pro version prior to releasing to the consumer version. The the difference to the resin was a minor tweak that prolonged the hardening to allow for a longer work time...same resin, slightly modified...but produces the same longevity and functionality while easier to use. Yes, Otpi Guard is more concenrated, but as the solvents flash away and the coating starts the process of dehydrating/hardening you will be left with a nice, even coating with either product.
The goal with either product is full coverage...not thickness.

It's just that when OC 2.0 was released the first question was "what's the difference between the pro and consumer versions??" and the answer was "the solvent!". I can't really tell from the above what it is--the solvent, the concentration, or the resin. Please, I'm not trying to beat you up about this, and I would understand in the chemist-to-layman translation that "the solvent concentration is different" got shortened to "the solvent". Just trying to understand.

As far as the thickness--I get it that the thickness is not very relevant--but I thought even Anthony Orosco was talking about getting more thickness with his spray application? Surely more thickness has to result in greater durability, even if it is esoteric (perhaps the difference between really really long and incredibly long).
 
It's just that when OC 2.0 was released the first question was "what's the difference between the pro and consumer versions??" and the answer was "the solvent!". I can't really tell from the above what it is--the solvent, the concentration, or the resin. Please, I'm not trying to beat you up about this, and I would understand in the chemist-to-layman translation that "the solvent concentration is different" got shortened to "the solvent". Just trying to understand.

As far as the thickness--I get it that the thickness is not very relevant--but I thought even Anthony Orosco was talking about getting more thickness with his spray application? Surely more thickness has to result in greater durability, even if it is esoteric (perhaps the difference between really really long and incredibly long).

I'm not sure how much of the magic behind the curtain I should reveal, so you should probalbly call Dr. G if you want to know more specific information. The Opti guard resin was modified to dehydrate slower which allows a longer work time. The concetration is lower so that a DIYer can remove it easier if they goof.

The ONLY benefit of thickness it that you can polish it more times before you strike through and have to reapply. Heavy or frequent polishing should be done by a pro and we make Opti Guard available to pros. With this type of product, it will not improve durability or looks for it to be thicker. That's why I was trying to make the distinction when OC 2.0 came out and everyone kept lumping it in with CQuartz. Cquartz while long lasting will wear off as will other sealants and LSPs. OptiCoat won't "wear" off so thickness is irrelavent during application.
 
Recent formula improvements allow layering of the new version over its self; Not previous applications of previously released versions.


Sent from my IPhone

I just put a layer of Opti-Coat 2.0 on, but really don't feel like I got even coverage on the hood. On small panels, I know I did ok, but had an issue with the hood because it was such a large area and not sure I hit all the spots so evenly.

Can I do another layer now (while it's still in the garage?) Or, how long do I have to wait? And, how long is too long to wait? (could I wash it a week from now and the apply another layer if needed?)

Thanks!!!
 
Back
Top