Opticoat undercarriage *suspension & frame*

pixelmonkey

pixelmonkey

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This weekend several hours will be used coating parts of the suspension, rear end, and drive line with POR15. All the parts are being completed using the Gloss Black version.

**This is a hotrod, not a show car! BUT, it doesnt hurt to keep it looking nice!**

The frame is being coated with POR15 "Chassis Black", which has a satin/matte finish.

While the parts are still separated; without ball joints, bushing or bearings installed; I'm thinking of coating things with opticoat, optiguard or another type of coating.

What I'm hoping to hear are a few suggestions on cure time of the paint prior to the coating being installed. *this is the first time i've worked with POR15, and I dont have the directions with me to review at the moment*

Has anyone used the product for this type of job before?
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
pixelmonkey said:
This weekend several hours will be used coating parts of the suspension, rear end, and drive line with POR15. All the parts are being completed using the Gloss Black version.

**This is a hotrod, not a show car! BUT, it doesn't hurt to keep it looking nice!**

The frame is being coated with POR15 "Chassis Black", which has a satin/matte finish.

While the parts are still separated; without ball joints, bushing or bearings installed; I'm thinking of coating things with opticoat, optiguard or another type of coating.

What I'm hoping to hear are a few suggestions on cure time of the paint prior to the coating being installed. *this is the first time i've worked with POR15, and I don't have the directions with me to review at the moment*

Has anyone used the product for this type of job before?
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Click to expand...


I've used POR-15 a few times and it's a awesome product for it's intended job. Used it on the floor and trunk of the big block Chevy powered 1959 Cadillac.

CaddyWinter2006a.jpg




I'm also de-rusting the frame on my 1978 Chevy 1-Ton 4x4 and hitting it with POR-15 and then painting it with something, haven't decided if I'm going to Chassis Black or not. I'm also going to test out the Griot's Rust Remover on the rust this Saturday.

Here's my project, see the rust?

springs001.jpg.JPG





At SEMA last year, I saw Dr. Ghodoussi also manufactures some different undercarriage coatings, bed liners, etc.

He's offered to send me some to test and I'll probably take him up on his offer.


After I get the frame all painted and the paint has cured I too am going to apply a coating to it to make clean-up faster and easier. When I get to that point I'll probably post an article about it.


:)
 
I don't think I'd be applying the coating to any fresh paint to answer your question. I would PM Chris specifically for actual cure times. That paint you're using may cure faster/slower than normal, I don't know.
 
richy said:
I don't think I'd be applying the coating to any fresh paint to answer your question. I would PM Chris specifically for actual cure times. That paint you're using may cure faster/slower than normal, I don't know.
Click to expand...


Good point.

30 days is a good general window of time to wait after applying fresh paint.


Chris, aka pixelmonkey, you might also give POR-15 a call and ask them how long to let thier Chassis Black paint to dry before coating it. I taked to someone at the Tech Line last week and they were very helpful.



:)
 
thanks for the tips mike & richy!

i'll be sending chris the questions tonight after reviewing the paint instructions.

the rust removal process has been completed a few different ways. the majority being glass blasting. other parts with an aircraft stripper, followed with a white vinegar bath. *found it works the same at the Metal Ready product*

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm also de-rusting the frame on my 1978 Chevy 1-Ton 4x4 and hitting it with POR-15 and then painting it with something, haven't decided if I'm going to Chassis Black or not. I'm also going to test out the Griot's Rust Remover on the rust this Saturday.
Click to expand...

how did the Griot's Rust Remover work for you?

i'm working on rust removal from the front half of the frame. all the loose rust was removed with a wire brush on the end of a drill. now it's slow, easy process working with vinegar/water mix. spraying parts to keep them moist while i sit in a lawn chair with a fan to keep cool.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
I use KBS which is similar to rust bullet. It cures hard as a rock in 24 hrs. I'm not sure how advantageous a coating would be on it, but it's not like typical paint.
 
setting up the weekend plans, and coating a few parts.

since the hot rod project wont see much road time in cold months, which will limit exposure to snow, ice and road salts; i'm also planning to apply some opticoat to portions of my daily driver bottom for comparison.

i'll take some photos of the daily project and post updates through the winter season in another thread.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
I'm contemplating painting my engine bay with base/clear (no rust) and then coating, so I'm excited to see others doing the same.

Keep us updated! :)
 
I used opticoat on a bumper that was hit 7 days after it was painted. Paint hasn't fallen off yet :D
 
Ray@Autogeek said:
I'm contemplating painting my engine bay with base/clear (no rust) and then coating, so I'm excited to see others doing the same.

Keep us updated! :)
Click to expand...


It's been a while since I've done some real car guy stuff but I'm fixing that now with my new truck build.

Back in 2001 this was a 1960 Cadillac I was resto-rodding, I cleaned and painted the firewall Persian Sand, basecoat/clearcoat, it was a PPG paint system, no remember the exact part numbers. Came out great though and the rest of the car would have been painted the same color.


Here's an engine compartment I degreased, stripped the firewall to bare metal, rebuilt the front-end, lowered the front-end, new seam seal and then painted...

1960 Cadillac 4-Door Sedan Deville
1960EngineCompartment.jpg


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1960Caddy001.jpg




:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm also de-rusting the frame on my 1978 Chevy 1-Ton 4x4 and hitting it with POR-15 and then painting it with something, haven't decided if I'm going to Chassis Black or not. I'm also going to test out the Griot's Rust Remover on the rust this Saturday.

Here's my project, see the rust?

springs001.jpg.JPG
Click to expand...


Rust and slag have all been removed now...

Truckafterpaint01_974918.jpg



Truckafterpaint02.jpg




:xyxthumbs:
 
mike,

i was looking at the frame and front leaf spring connection and was curious what connection was going to be used. triangulated links? box extension of the front frame? I liked what you did with the rear connection *beefy looking!*

for my project, the frame is still getting welds. will likely be spring before painting starts there.
- welding seems
- boxing the rear half that's C
- additional cross members to prevent some frame flex

been playing with 3/16 plate and a grinder quite a bit. havent played with detailing supplies as much as i should have been recently. figured the opticoat would be a nice break from the ear ringing grinder and sparks.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
pixelmonkey said:
mike,

i was looking at the frame and front leaf spring connection and was curious what connection was going to be used. triangulated links? box extension of the front frame? I liked what you did with the rear connection *beefy looking!*
Click to expand...

Installed 12" springs front and rear and next up my buddy Dave is going to cut off the Billy-Bob spring holders and fabricate a new heavy duty set-up that will be strong and look correct.

:xyxthumbs:
 
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