Optimum Compound, HC, and Polish Break Down Times for PC Application.. Input Needed

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I'm using the Optimum linefor the 1st time, what is the amount of time it takes for this product to break down?

Also, how much are you using?

I know speed of PC and pad selection influences this but just tell me what you are doing regarding pad/speed/break down time combos.

Please share....
 
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I've never have time it. I work it in until it's almost gone and then wipe with mf. I know it's different times with different paints.
 
sparkie said:
I've never have time it. I work it in until it's almost gone and then wipe with mf. I know it's different times with different paints.

Thanks for the reply

It seems to turn translucent rather quickly which is why it seems to be quite deceiving when working making it hard to tell when it's gone! What are you using as a gage to tell you it's gone = Look or feel?
 
MotorCity Honda said:
Thanks for the reply

It seems to turn translucent rather quickly which is why it seems to be quite deceiving when working making it hard to tell when it's gone! What are you using as a gage to tell you it's gone = Look or feel?
Look, just like in the video we have here on AG.
polishervideo1.gif
 
yeah, It just seems to take so long before getting to that appearance.. Guess I just need to trust the product.
 
Well the Optimum line is designed for a long working time with the rotary. I haven't had good results with it via PC. It'll do the job but the lack of heat won't break the oils down making it difficult to remove. Just something to keep in your mind... You'll just have to play around a little bit. Speed 6 and a few minutes will likely do it.
 
heat, humidity ... lots of factors can effect polishes. Rule of thumb is to work polishes until it flashes from paste to a cloudy dry surface.
 
If you have some work lights, then while you polish, when the finish is defect free or close you are pretty much there. Just use optimum on a car finish that you are familiar with, such as your own.
 
I can tell you it takes longer then Menzerna SIP, 106FF, PB SSR1, SSR2.5, and XMT #1-3. However, you should be able to work it until the defect is cleared. Once that happens you can buff it off.

If the polish is hard to wipe off, then you probably didnt break it down. Also, swipe it with your finger, if it comes off, then its broken down.
 
It was nice and hot here I had intermitent shande from rolling clouds.

1st of all the GM CC was pretty tough.. it had swirls from before I started washing it but most recently water etchings from a rain when the vehicle was parked under a tree on a hot day.. ouch.

Process:

Orange and White LC CCS with PC
  • Pressure Washed
  • DG 901 (2 bucket)
  • Pressure Washed
  • Clayed
  • OHC on Hood & Front Fascia /Trunk and rear Lip/Roof
  • OC/OP (50/50)
  • Petes 53
  • DG #951
Wheels & Wells
  • cleaned with- ARO
  • Dressed with - 303 Protecetant
Sorry no befores...

6f7f6z6.jpg


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66me5og.jpg

5y0mcue.jpg

4xvexax.jpg

6apg6j4.jpg

52vixx3.jpg


The owner loved it. He called me within an hour thanking me again after someone (another black g6 owner) asked him how he got it so "shiny"..

When I told him it would be even better tomorrow he was floored
 
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Very nice Jason, love the reflection you got...:righton: wicked results.

Thanks for sharing.
 
I would never use the optimum line with my PC. I use it strictly for my rotary and megs pro line for my PC.
 
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