Optimum Gloss Coat Beading Issues

[idriveblackcars]

Never used their Honeydew. For cleaning power the Citrus Wash red was the best but it looks like they discontinued it. It had no waxes or silicones so it was great for coated cars. I'm pretty sure Citrus Wash and Clear is it's replacement. Hard to tell with Chemical Guys sometimes...

I still own and use Citrus red as my main go to cleaner wash. It can still be purchased from Autopia.

Ok they must have ran out so guess it's not available anymore there either. And Amazon doesn't have any left as well.

 

[The Guz]

I finally had a chance to give my car a wash with Carpro Reset, and the microfiber incredimitt. I used 1 oz to about 3-4 gallons of water. Unfortunately, it didn't restore the beading/sheeting of the problem areas .

I haven't had a chance to try the Iron-X and Tar-X I got, and will try those, along with another Carpro Reset wash in the next week or so. I am not sure if I am not using enough soap, or if the coating really is gone in those parts. I really hope it is still there because the next time I will have to re-apply the coating will be about 6 months from now, which is my next free vacation. I really don't want to go through a winter in an uncoated car.

I had the same thing happen with gloss coat on my uncles car. I did a decon wash with ferrex, power clean and MDR per optimum's way to decon the coating. The washed with reset. Nothing restored the coating. I don't think it is as durable as optimum claims it to be. For now you may just want to seal or wax it.

Edit I even clayed an area with the optimum wash, clay, wax method and that did not help either.

 

[Whiplash Willy]

I had the same thing happen with gloss coat on my uncles car. I did a decon wash with ferrex, power clean and MDR per optimum's way to decon the coating. The washed with reset. Nothing restored the coating. I don't think it is as durable as optimum claims it to be. For now you may just want to seal or wax it.

Edit I even clayed an area with the optimum wash, clay, wax method and that did not help either.

Why do you think that the coating would wear off on the lower sides and rear of the vehicle, and remain on the upper sides, front, Hood and Roof? Is it because those areas get hit the most with road spray and contamination? It is disappointing if the coating won't hold up for more then a year. Are there better/more durable consumer based coatings out there?

 

[The Guz]

Why do you think that the coating would wear off on the lower sides and rear of the vehicle, and remain on the upper sides, front, Hood and Roof? Is it because those areas get hit the most with road spray and contamination? It is disappointing if the coating won't hold up for more then a year. Are there better/more durable consumer based coatings out there?

More than likely yes on top of the abuse the lower part takes. It also depends on the climate in the area. You could keep washing with reset to see if it eventually comes back. I think most of the consumer coatings are not going to last as long as they claim. You could try giving gtechniq crystal serum light + exo V3 a try. If you are looking for a cheap 1 year coating then McKee's is an option.

 

[Desertnate]

Why do you think that the coating would wear off on the lower sides and rear of the vehicle, and remain on the upper sides, front, Hood and Roof? Is it because those areas get hit the most with road spray and contamination? It is disappointing if the coating won't hold up for more then a year. Are there better/more durable consumer based coatings out there?

On a similar thread elsewhere I talked about my observations over the last year with a coating on a car with similar issues. At this point, I'm not convinced the coating in those "spray zones" is actually wearing off. I think they simply get large amounts of grime embedded in them which changes the water behavior.

From personal experience, the more I washed the vehicle that displayed evidence of the coating failing, the car the better the water behavior. Since winter, it has steadily improved. I do not top my coated cars, nor do I use shampoo with wax or glossing agents, so I can't credit some other product with my observations.

 

[Whiplash Willy]

I had the same thing happen with gloss coat on my uncles car. I did a decon wash with ferrex, power clean and MDR per optimum's way to decon the coating. The washed with reset. Nothing restored the coating. I don't think it is as durable as optimum claims it to be. For now you may just want to seal or wax it.

Edit I even clayed an area with the optimum wash, clay, wax method and that did not help either.

Why do you think that the coating would wear off on the lower sides and rear of the vehicle, and remain on the upper sides, front, Hood and Roof? Is it because those areas get hit the most with road spray and contamination? It is disappointing if the coating won't hold up for more then a year. Are there better/more durable consumer based coatings out there?

 

[The Guz]

Well what was your prep?

 

[WillSports3]

I think the beading for these coatings wear off but the protection is still there. I've seen coated cars that had their beading reduced to almost nothing yet after a few month, still no bonded contaminants.

 

[Whiplash Willy]

Well what was your prep?

Here was my prep:

I ordered the car new, and when delivered I requested they keep all of the protective plastics on, and not touch my paint.

I did a thorough wash using a pressure washer and DI Water, the 2 bucket method, and CG Mr Pink soap. I used Iron-X, then did a 2nd wash. I clayed with a Nano Skin Light Cut claybar, using ONR as lubrication.

I went over any scratches (all minor), but not the entire car with Menzerna Final Polish and a white CCS pad. Finally I used Optimum's Paint prep, then applied 2 coats of Gloss Coat.

 

[The Guz]

At this point I would either top it for now or polish and recoat. No sense in over thinking it.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Maybe it's a Subaru thing. The WG Uber Ceramic (4/2016) didn't make it thru NE Ohio winter on my WRX; same areas wore away.

 

[DetailZeus]

I think the beading for these coatings wear off but the protection is still there. I've seen coated cars that had their beading reduced to almost nothing yet after a few month, still no bonded contaminants.

I wish there was an easy way to tell. Baggie test maybe? It's my understanding that hydrophobic surfaces need to be pretty perfect to maintain their hydrophobic properties.