Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 - Permanent Paint Protection Made Easy

I did in fact transfer it back to the syringe following a recommendation from Chris@Optimum. :props:

For the record, I used approximately 5cc for the Camry.



Great tip, thanks for sharing! :dblthumb2:

You are welcome. I feel like people are scared to try the product but they should not be. if you are timid you could always prep one or two small panels and do just just them to get the hang of it. also saw the other tips that have been given and after reading this post our members should be prepared to apply the new coating.
 
As for high spots, what do they look like? Could someone explain how these spots happen and how to avoid them. I suppose there is no buffing "off" after a certain amount of time?

High spots are just areas where the product was applied too thick and not leveled. All you need to do to avoid them is wipe away the excess before it fully dries. When you apply OC to a section, it will start to flash to clear within 30second to 2 minutes depending on the environment. When 95% has flashed to clear, you need to lightly buff any spots that have not flashed to clear to remove the "high spot" where the product is too thick.

Even if you miss a spot and allow it to harden, you can easily remove it with a pass or two of Poli Seal, GPS, or Finish without needing to reapply OC to the area. The light polishing will remove the excess without removing the base coat that has bonded to the paint.

Here is an example of a dried high spot on black paint:
IMG_5335.jpg

IMG_5330.jpg

IMG_5325.jpg
 
Chris, after an application of Opti Coat is there a measurable difference between just the factory clear and Opti Coat with a paint gauge?
 
Chris, after an application of Opti Coat is there a measurable difference between just the factory clear and Opti Coat with a paint gauge?

Yes, while normal LSP's add only about .02 microns, you should see 1-2 microns with OC when applied correctly.
 
So that would be a great way to add back protection if one decided to level their paint and get rid of the orange peel? If you were religious about maintaining the Opti Coat seal with further applications on a timely matter you could add the amount of clear reomved and end up with the same measurement before you leveled the clear?

Sorry, I just got this idea running through my head. I dont plan on leveling my paint anytime soon but with the new seleants that you and others have brought to the table just got me thinking. Just curious.
 
So that would be a great way to add back protection if one decided to level their paint and get rid of the orange peel? If you were religious about maintaining the Opti Coat seal with further applications on a timely matter you could add the amount of clear reomved and end up with the same measurement before you leveled the clear?

Sorry, I just got this idea running through my head. I dont plan on leveling my paint anytime soon but with the new seleants that you and others have brought to the table just got me thinking. Just curious.

When cars are preped on assembly lines the compounding a polishing steps to remove sanding marks removes 2-4 microns. It's safe to say that a two step reconditioning would be comparable unless we're very aggressive, so you could add back some...but probably not as much as you've removed. The ability to add some back permenantly is huge though and will allow you to correct 1-2 microns in the future without hitting factory paint again. Our coating allong with education about proper care and avoiding over polishing can be invaluable for those wanting to protect their investments.
 
Does it degrade the longevity of the OC2.0 stored inside the syringe after transferring it back?

No, it won't degrade it if replaced timely. Exposure to moisture and air can cause polymerization to start, but containment in the sprayer for no longer than is necessary to coat a vehicle will do no harm. Removing the exposure by storing the remaindier in the syringe after use will stop polymerization.

I know Nick transfered the whole contents, but I usually only transfer 10cc as that's what I use on average.
 
Hey Chris,I just watched the OptiCoat2.0 video over at your forum and liked Anthony's yellow pad/latex glove/blue shop paper towel method.
I wounder how application would go using Anthony's method,with a small spritz bottle to cover the blue shop paper towel?

BTW,If I had a compressor.I would be all over the OptiSpray Gun/OptiCoat2.0 ;)
 
No, it won't degrade it if replaced timely. Exposure to moisture and air can cause polymerization to start, but containment in the sprayer for no longer than is necessary to coat a vehicle will do no harm. Removing the exposure by storing the remaindier in the syringe after use will stop polymerization.

I know Nick transfered the whole contents, but I usually only transfer 10cc as that's what I use on average.

Thanks for the reply Chris! Much appreciated! :xyxthumbs:
 
I may have to revisit OptiCoat2.0 beause Anthony put about (3) coats of it on the black vehicle (in the video),and the finish did not looked stained(High Spots):xyxthumbs:
 
I may have to revisit OptiCoat2.0 beause Anthony put about (3) coats of it on the black vehicle (in the video),and the finish did not looked stained(High Spots):xyxthumbs:

Chris can you PM me the link to the post or video? I've PM'd Anthony about the air brush method and I want to try it. I haven't seen his other method or the layering
 
Thanks for the link.

Now what affect does the layering he did have on the Opticoat? I thought it couldn't be layered so does that mean it just wipes off or what happens?

I can't wait to try the glove/shop towel method and the airbrush method. The airbrush will work great for my track wheels with all the detail
 
Thanks for the link.

Now what affect does the layering he did have on the Opticoat? I thought it couldn't be layered so does that mean it just wipes off or what happens?

I can't wait to try the glove/shop towel method and the airbrush method. The airbrush will work great for my track wheels with all the detail

Yes,I want to try the AirGun as well,if I decide to pick up a smaller compressor.

Also I'm thinking of using these instead of the paper towel:
autogeek_2186_41983945


I have plenty of these.
 
I went and looked for his post. The air gun seems to use more product but I bet the results and ease of applications would make it worth it
 
Thanks for the link.

Now what affect does the layering he did have on the Opticoat? I thought it couldn't be layered so does that mean it just wipes off or what happens?

I can't wait to try the glove/shop towel method and the airbrush method. The airbrush will work great for my track wheels with all the detail

It cant be layered but the new formula that was recently released is layerable which is currently only available directly from Optimums website.

Anthony himself said his video was only for demonstration purposes to show his application techniques.

Here is the link to his thread.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/41758-my-methods-applying-opti-coat.html
 
I guess I'm courteous what happens if you try. Does it look like a high spot and wipe off?

I'm not trying it I'm just curious
 
Great write-up! Thanks much for the tips.

I want to try Opti-Coat some day....

:props:
 
Hey Chris,I just watched the OptiCoat2.0 video over at your forum and liked Anthony's yellow pad/latex glove/blue shop paper towel method.
I wounder how application would go using Anthony's method,with a small spritz bottle to cover the blue shop paper towel?

BTW,If I had a compressor.I would be all over the OptiSpray Gun/OptiCoat2.0 ;)

The shop towels absorb quite a bit more product IMO but reduce high spots. The suedes may be the best of both worlds.

Thanks for the reply Chris! Much appreciated! :xyxthumbs:

You're welcome.

Thanks for the link.

Now what affect does the layering he did have on the Opticoat? I thought it couldn't be layered so does that mean it just wipes off or what happens?

I can't wait to try the glove/shop towel method and the airbrush method. The airbrush will work great for my track wheels with all the detail

What you see in the video is not layering, but just a single thick coat. Layering would be allowing each coat to cure before adding another. Our new resin can be layered as I've described.

I went and looked for his post. The air gun seems to use more product but I bet the results and ease of applications would make it worth it

It uses about 4x the product and you still have to go over it with a MF. The benefit is a thicker coating not so much an easier application.

It cant be layered but the new formula that was recently released is layerable which is currently only available directly from Optimums website.

Anthony himself said his video was only for demonstration purposes to show his application techniques.

Here is the link to his thread.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/41758-my-methods-applying-opti-coat.html

Any OC with the new label that has the car and logo on it can be layered and it's not exclusive to our site. You may be thinking of our pro version that's only available direct.

Thanks for posting the link to Anthony's post. I knew it was on here too, but didn't remember the title.
 
Layering would be allowing each coat to cure before adding another. Our new resin can be layered as I've described.
Any OC with the new label that has the car and logo on it can be layered and it's not exclusive to our site.

Hi Chris,

I wasn't aware that I could layer Opti-Coat. My latest syringe of Opti-Guard (from Joel) has the car and logo, so I presume this also applies to OG.

Is it just wait the usual 12 hours for the cure and apply the second coat or can it be done earlier? Is there any recommended preparation between coats?

Have you posted this information before? If so where?

I've just ripped into my Opti-Guarded bonnet to compare both 85RD and Optimum Finish on MF pads as compared to foam, so I'll hold off on the new OG application until I hear back from you. Really like the idea of being able to layer it. I'm not having any problems with my existing double coat technique, but it would be nice to compare it to two separate layers.


Graham
 
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