Optimum Polish - cutting power.

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Optimum Polish, new formula, what's cutting power on that polish? Is it more like a finishing polish, SSR1, XMT1, or more aggressive like XMT2, SSR2?

Thanks in advance.
 
It's really pad dependant. You can make it a polish or give it some cut with pad choice. I'd compare it more to XMT#2 but maybe just a little weaker. Finishes off easy with a nice slick finish. Very sun and hear friendly too.
 
I haven't used anything else to compare it to, but I did a black car in pretty bad condition, and didn't need to touch the compound. I would say 3M rubbing minus 1. So good!
 
justin30513 said:
It's really pad dependant. You can make it a polish or give it some cut with pad choice. I'd compare it more to XMT#2 but maybe just a little weaker. Finishes off easy with a nice slick finish. Very sun and hear friendly too.

Question for you guys: Many recommended I switch from XMT to OHC for the vette's tough clear coat. I have it now, although I have not tried it on the vette; does this mean to say I bought the equivalent from a different brand?
(Actually, it worked well on a Saturn when mixed with XMT 3, but I was playing and so I can't tell which one was really better - and of course I have been advised NOT to do that (mixing) again! Thoughts?:confused:
 
ltoman said:
Question for you guys: Many recommended I switch from XMT to OHC for the vette's tough clear coat. I have it now, although I have not tried it on the vette; does this mean to say I bought the equivalent from a different brand?
(Actually, it worked well on a Saturn when mixed with XMT 3, but I was playing and so I can't tell which one was really better - and of course I have been advised NOT to do that (mixing) again! Thoughts?:confused:

Like I had posted before, you may use it no problem, however it would have a strenuous worktime, and the Porter Cable isnt powerful enough to break down OHC to its FUL EXTENT, yet it will however leave some results.
 
I gotta agree with Justin, pad choice can make any polish lighter or heavier to a degree. I would put Optimum on a playing field with SSR 2.0 and XMT 2 as closest competitors.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
I gotta agree with Justin, pad choice can make any polish lighter or heavier to a degree. I would put Optimum on a playing field with SSR 2.0 and XMT 2 as closest competitors.
What about OC? What's the cut? I've got both.....tremendous work time! Takes a while to break down, but it does so with no dust and finishes down pretty fine. And both polish and compound is pad specific for cut.

Copied and pasted from AG's pages:

Optimum says their compound can be used at any speed on your polisher and with a wool or foam pad. When using a wool buffing pad, the compound will remove 1200 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM. Faster buffing speed is not needed with this product. When using a medium or heavy cut foam pad, the compound will remove 1500 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM. The compound works more or less aggressively depending on the pad you choose. If necessary, follow up with Optimum Polish to refine the paint surface before applying Optimum Wax. All Optimum products meet VOC regulations.
 
Is Optimum a good starter polish becasue that is what i have, i was going to use it with lc orange pad to get the spider webing our and swirls... should i use a finishing pad insteed?
 
Okay, I think I should trade the OHC and polish off. Guys? Should I?
 
Lauren,

I hope I can shed some light on things for you. Optimum makes 3 levels of polish they are called (from lightest cut to heaviest cut):

-Optimum Polish
-Optimum Compound
-Optimum Hyper Compound

To understand how abrasive these polishes are I'll relate them to the XMT line which you have already used. Optimum Polish's abrasive level as already mentioned is somewhere between XMT #1 & #2. Optimum Compound's abrasive level is about the same as XMT #3. Optimum Hyper Compound does not have an XMT equivalent and is more abrasive than XMT #3.

The OHC you bought is definitely more abrasive than the XMT #3 you already have. So, if the #3 didn't make a dent in your swirls then go ahead and try the OHC you bought.
 
MikeyC said:
Lauren,

I hope I can shed some light on things for you. Optimum makes 3 levels of polish they are called (from lightest cut to heaviest cut):

-Optimum Polish
-Optimum Compound
-Optimum Hyper Compound

To understand how abrasive these polishes are I'll relate them to the XMT line which you have already used. Optimum Polish's abrasive level as already mentioned is somewhere between XMT #1 & #2. Optimum Compound's abrasive level is about the same as XMT #3. Optimum Hyper Compound does not have an XMT equivalent and is more abrasive than XMT #3.

The OHC you bought is definitely more abrasive than the XMT #3 you already have. So, if the #3 didn't make a dent in your swirls then go ahead and try the OHC you bought.

Thank you - that was very clear and concise. Now I've got it. I think now it is worth my keeping. MUCH appreciated!
Blessings,
Lauren -- you rock!Im the MAN :awesome: :)
 
dengood1 said:
What about OC? What's the cut? I've got both.....tremendous work time! Takes a while to break down, but it does so with no dust and finishes down pretty fine. And both polish and compound is pad specific for cut.

Copied and pasted from AG's pages:

Optimum says their compound can be used at any speed on your polisher and with a wool or foam pad. When using a wool buffing pad, the compound will remove 1200 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM. Faster buffing speed is not needed with this product. When using a medium or heavy cut foam pad, the compound will remove 1500 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM. The compound works more or less aggressively depending on the pad you choose. If necessary, follow up with Optimum Polish to refine the paint surface before applying Optimum Wax. All Optimum products meet VOC regulations.

How much longer would you say it takes per area?
 
ltoman said:
How much longer would you say it takes per area?

I've never timed it Lauren, but I'd say you can work it in about 30-50% longer. You'll see it getting clear and really "fine" when it's finally broken down.
 
I have the old version of OP and it's great, the new one has more bite. You can use it to do some correcting work witha cutting pad yet it will finish down like a finishing polish w/o a final polishing pad. Heck, I used OC and a yellow edge cutting pad and got no marring, then I went over the whole truck with the blue edge pad :righton:. Next time I'll try it on the white finishing pad to see if there is a difference. I just love how neither dust and have long working times.
 
Surfer said:
I have the old version of OP and it's great, the new one has more bite. You can use it to do some correcting work witha cutting pad yet it will finish down like a finishing polish w/o a final polishing pad. Heck, I used OC and a yellow edge cutting pad and got no marring, then I went over the whole truck with the blue edge pad :righton:. Next time I'll try it on the white finishing pad to see if there is a difference. I just love how neither dust and have long working times.

:iagree:
 
dengood1 said:
I've never timed it Lauren, but I'd say you can work it in about 30-50% longer. You'll see it getting clear and really "fine" when it's finally broken down.

Don't be discouraged by a longer working time Lauren. Once you get the swirls polished out once you can avoid putting them back in by using proper washing technique/tools. They'll still come back eventually but you can get to them when they are lighter with a less aggressive polish.

I polished my car once this year with a two step polishing process (compound then finishing polish). This was back in May or June. Since then I've only polished it once because swirls were coming back. They were really light and isolated though. So, I only had to use a finishing polish. I really could have waited longer before polishing again.
 
MikeyC said:
Don't be discouraged by a longer working time Lauren. Once you get the swirls polished out once you can avoid putting them back in by using proper washing technique/tools. They'll still come back eventually but you can get to them when they are lighter with a less aggressive polish.

I polished my car once this year with a two step polishing process (compound then finishing polish). This was back in May or June. Since then I've only polished it once because swirls were coming back. They were really light and isolated though. So, I only had to use a finishing polish. I really could have waited longer before polishing again.

SO how often can you polish a car?
 
ltoman said:
SO how often can you polish a car?

There's not really a set number of times I can tell you. It depends on how thick the paint was to begin with, how aggressive your polishing sessions were, if you've ever wet sanded the paint, and many other factors.

Generally speaking you shouldn't need to polish your car more than 3 maybe 4 times a year. 75% of the time you polish the car you shouldn't need to get all that aggressive with your polish selection either. Except for the occasional spot polish for a scratch I only use compound (XMT 3, PB SSR2.5, Menzerna IP) on my car once a year or so. You should be able to follow this regimen for many, many years before you run out of paint.

Most people don't realize that if you spend a little extra time/money washing the car you'll need to polish it much less.
 
ltoman said:
SO how often can you polish a car?
I think most detailers would say around 2-3 times a year. I did mine back in April and swirls are starting to show now, not bad, but I can see them under certain light and it errks me lol. Time to polish again. I've seen some people just use a finishing polish every 3 months or so to strip down and bring a little shine back. I may just do this from now on.
 
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