optimum power clean warning

oh, and btw, i am the only person who works on this car. i always used megs apc plus and never had this problem.
 
Maybe I missed it but at what ratio did you use Meg's APC+?

*Edit - statement about M105 removed after reading post #23 regarding possible clear coat failure.
 
That looks like clearcoat failure. I have seen that a lot at automatic car washes where they spray a high alkaline or acidic cleaner on the wheels while it's still hot. I'm not sure why it only reared it's head after exposure to Power Clean, but that damage has been slow and gradual. Power Clean only has a ph of 11 and is non caustic...so it wouldn't do that.

That rim will have to be repainted to repair.
 
That looks like clearcoat failure. I have seen that a lot at automatic car washes where they spray a high alkaline or acidic cleaner on the wheels while it's still hot. I'm not sure why it only reared it's head after exposure to Power Clean, but that damage has been slow and gradual. Power Clean only has a ph of 11 and is non caustic...so it wouldn't do that.

That rim will have to be repainted to repair.


I totally agree, Chris.

That looks like the clear coat on the wheels is toast.
 
In addition, the spoke on the other side of the wheel, the one just above the green valve stem cap, seems to have 1-2 off-color spots. It could be ghosting due to the camera angle but noticeable in the picture nonetheless.
 
I'll bet the dealer did it. The wheel also appears to have been repaired in the near part of the picture. Certainly wasn't done by OC though.
 
I've had the same exact experience using OPC on wheels. I thought it was a fluke so I tried it on another set or two of wheels and it's as if the stuff just doesn't rinse off the wheels even when rinsed with a pressure washer. The wheels look good at first but after a pressure rinse and then a short drive this white chalky staining appears. I've had this white chalky staining on black plastic interior parts as well. IMO if I have to go over an interior twice because the cleaner needs to be rinsed off then it's not worthy of being in my arsenal of cleaners. A big waste of time and money if you ask me.

Having said that, I'll say that OPC does work well at getting tough shoe scuffs off of interior parts and that's all I'll use it for anymore.

this is the only pic i got you can see how it looks like a white film on the rim.

20111220_103220.jpg
 
I've had the same exact experience using OPC on wheels. I thought it was a fluke so I tried it on another set or two of wheels and it's as if the stuff just doesn't rinse off the wheels even when rinsed with a pressure washer. The wheels look good at first but after a pressure rinse and then a short drive this white chalky staining appears.

Thanks for posting this info.

As has been suggested, and in your opinion, did you find that this white, chalky staining 'condition' was indeed an indication of clear-coat failure? Or even the "beginnings" of clear-coat failure.

Also...Did you find a remedy for removal of the white, chalky
staining, if it wasn't clear-coat failure?

Thanks for any info you are able to provide...I'm sure the OP, as well as others, will be extremely grateful for your professional evaluation!

:)

Bob
 
This post really has me worried, as i have just purchased some OPC to be used to help strip the wax off my paint before i start my 'claying' process... should i even consider using this stuff to strip wax off my paint now?
 
The finish actually looks scratched from using something too abrasive to clean it, and/or possibly from having brake dust built up on the wheel, as looks to be the case from the spots that remain uncleaned in the pic.
 
Unfortunately I have no photos of this problem but I can say that it definitely is a white chalky residue left behind rather than clear coat failure. Somewhat difficult to remove with just an APC or even with more OPC which suggests to me that it may in fact be slight etching. I used Polish with sealant (Poorboy's) to remove it and it came off very easily. One time I rubbed UTTG into the wheel while doing the tires and that also removed the residue but with a bit more elbow grease. No damage done just "extra work" which I constantly thrive to eliminate.

Thanks for posting this info.

As has been suggested, and in your opinion, did you find that this white, chalky staining 'condition' was indeed an indication of clear-coat failure? Or even the "beginnings" of clear-coat failure.

Also...Did you find a remedy for removal of the white, chalky
staining, if it wasn't clear-coat failure?

Thanks for any info you are able to provide...I'm sure the OP, as well as others, will be extremely grateful for your professional evaluation!

:)

Bob
 
Unfortunately I have no photos of this problem but I can say that it definitely is a white chalky residue left behind rather than clear coat failure. Somewhat difficult to remove with just an APC or even with more OPC which suggests to me that it may in fact be slight etching. I used Polish with sealant (Poorboy's) to remove it and it came off very easily. One time I rubbed UTTG into the wheel while doing the tires and that also removed the residue but with a bit more elbow grease. No damage done just "extra work" which I constantly thrive to eliminate.

Thank you for your reply.

Perhaps the OP's situation may be alleviated by following your "removal-experience"...It's worth a try, IMO.

:)

Bob
 
I've had the same exact experience using OPC on wheels. I thought it was a fluke so I tried it on another set or two of wheels and it's as if the stuff just doesn't rinse off the wheels even when rinsed with a pressure washer. The wheels look good at first but after a pressure rinse and then a short drive this white chalky staining appears. I've had this white chalky staining on black plastic interior parts as well. IMO if I have to go over an interior twice because the cleaner needs to be rinsed off then it's not worthy of being in my arsenal of cleaners. A big waste of time and money if you ask me.

Having said that, I'll say that OPC does work well at getting tough shoe scuffs off of interior parts and that's all I'll use it for anymore.

There must be another issue in play in your situation. OPC is easily rinsed and even following up with Protectant Plus on interiors will suffice as a "rinse." The only time you should see any residue is if the product is allowed to dry (left too long). Any APC/Degreaser needs to be rinsed and if you don't you are doing your customers a great disservice as the chemical will reactivate when damp until removed. Also, hard water can contribute to the chalky staining you mentioned...rinsing and drying are important steps that shouldn't be left out.

The OP has posted a different problem anyway as can be seen in the picture. You can see the clear coat failing where the spoke meets the outside of the wheel and etching where the clear coat is completely gone. He doens't have a residue that can be cleaned away with an AIO. Those wheels will need refinishing.

Thanks for posting this info.

As has been suggested, and in your opinion, did you find that this white, chalky staining 'condition' was indeed an indication of clear-coat failure? Or even the "beginnings" of clear-coat failure.

Also...Did you find a remedy for removal of the white, chalky
staining, if it wasn't clear-coat failure?

Thanks for any info you are able to provide...I'm sure the OP, as well as others, will be extremely grateful for your professional evaluation!

:)

Bob

The chaulky residue is not an indicator of clear coat failure, it is merely unrinsed product or hard water stains on the surface and can easily be removed with any AIO polish by hand. It should be able to be avoided by rinsing and drying the surface. The OP has another issue...the wheel pictured has obvious clear coat missing and where it is missing the wheels are etched. I have seen this exact problem many times from swirl o matics applying a high alkaline or acidic wheel cleaner to a hot rim as they sent it throught the conveyor. OPC is non caustic and the worst thing you would see is the chalky residue if allowed to dry...not clear coat removal. OPC is safe on paint and leather as per our directions.

This post really has me worried, as i have just purchased some OPC to be used to help strip the wax off my paint before i start my 'claying' process... should i even consider using this stuff to strip wax off my paint now?

You should not worry. The OP has something else going on. I do strip washes with OPC frequently with no ill effects. I wash a panel with OPC then wash the same panel with ONR and it works great. You may get the residue if you wash the whole vehicle with OPC before rinsing as it will dry before you can do the whole car...so wash it in sections.

The finish actually looks scratched from using something too abrasive to clean it, and/or possibly from having brake dust built up on the wheel, as looks to be the case from the spots that remain uncleaned in the pic.

I agree, aggressive chemicals and/or tactics have been used on this rim at some point. OPC likely just removed the filler/wax that was hiding it.

Unfortunately I have no photos of this problem but I can say that it definitely is a white chalky residue left behind rather than clear coat failure. Somewhat difficult to remove with just an APC or even with more OPC which suggests to me that it may in fact be slight etching. I used Polish with sealant (Poorboy's) to remove it and it came off very easily. One time I rubbed UTTG into the wheel while doing the tires and that also removed the residue but with a bit more elbow grease. No damage done just "extra work" which I constantly thrive to eliminate.

I know exactly what you are describing, but that's not what's going on in this case.

Thank you for your reply.

Perhaps the OP's situation may be alleviated by following your "removal-experience"...It's worth a try, IMO.

:)

Bob

He already has to no avail, this is a different issue as the pictures demonstrate.



Opti Coat goes on much thinner than OEM clear and OPC will not penetrate it. It would have to irritate or burn your skin to be able to do that kind of damage to the wheel and anyone who's used it can attest that Power Clean doesn't irritate or burn skin. We have to do considerable testing before we make claims like: "paint and leather safe"...but we have and it is. I'm also a professional detailer with many years of experience. I have used Power Clean since it's release and my family has several car washes and oil change facilities servicing hundreds of cars per day. I'm very familiar with the chemicals used in this industry and their effects when used properly and improperly (new hires, LOL). I'm certain that this is unrelated to cleaning with OPC.
 
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^^^ Thanks for your reply Chris! I will follow your instructions.

You're welcome. I use this stuff almost everyday, so I can tell you how to use it for sure. I used to keep cheaper APC's around for bulk work, but now I use OPC exclusively. I use in on wheels, engine bays, door jambs and to strip LSP. On interiors, I use it on the high traffic areas (cupholders, steering wheel, door handles) then go over the whole interior with Opti Clean.

The only things that I know of that you should avoid are headliners and the edges of window tint. OPC will deteriorate the adhesive in those applications.
 
Thanks Chris! This is info is good to know, as i have aftermarket tint on my windows....

Since you have been using this product so much to strip LSP's, can you provide any insight into the mixture ratio, you use? I had planned on using the Foamaster Foam gun to apply the OPC to the exterior of my truck.
Autogeek Quart Foamaster Foam Gun FREE BONUS
 
I have used OPC on MANY, MANY different wheels and surfaces. I am on my 3rd gallon now and have never had any negative side effects but then again, I have never let the product dry on any surface either.
 
My question still hasn't been answered, at what dilution ratio were you using APC+? If you are the only person to touch the car and you always use APC+ and multiple people say it looks like clear coat failure, then how could this possibly happen from one use of OPC? This is an interesting thread to say the least.
 
Thanks Chris! This is info is good to know, as i have aftermarket tint on my windows....

Since you have been using this product so much to strip LSP's, can you provide any insight into the mixture ratio, you use? I had planned on using the Foamaster Foam gun to apply the OPC to the exterior of my truck.
Autogeek Quart Foamaster Foam Gun FREE BONUS

I find the foam master dilutes the product too much to strip LSP effectively. I prefer to spray it on via trigger sprayer, wash, then use a seperate mitt and ONR solution to go over the panel again. Make sure you rinse the ONR mitt in plain water before returning it to the ONR solution or you will be adding Power Clean to the ONR mix and it won't dry as easily. I also use a Wagner Control Spray sometimes to apply Power Clean as it lays down an incredibly even coat with no waste and less dripping.
 
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