Optimum Spray Wax or McKee's Fast wax

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luvmyrv

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Which of these 2 products is the better one to use? I should add that as soon as the weather eases up and allows me to, I will be using Mckee's 360 and top it with McKee's Hi Def Sealant, and then using either of these as part of my maintenance routine. The Optimum appealed to me based on a post done by Mike a while back about the Optimium having true UV protection in it, and also out of curiosity to try the Optimum product. Anyone with experience with these?
 
I have multiple gallons of both. I mix them 50:50. I use them as my drying agent and for wax renewal between paste wax applications. I "invented" or "concocted" this process myself.

I became very impressed by OCW because of Mike's video and also after reading Dr. G's patent disclosure. His patent for what amounts to OCW is here: https://www.google.com/patents/US6685765

It is the only real definitive documentation explaining the reasoning and theory behind the product.

That said, I had almost a full gallon of Fast Wax sitting on the shelf and I was thinking about what a waste it was to not be using it.

I went back and reread the description here: https://www.autogeek.net/xmt-360-spray-wax-128.html

I'm thinking to myself that this sounds distinctly similar to OCW: https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-spray-wax.html

At that point I said to myself, "F - it. these two product descriptions have so much in common that they are virtually interchangeable so I'm going to mix them and see what happens" and I've been mixing them ever since. There is no rhyme or reason to doing this. It is like mixing Coke and Pepsi. To each his own.
 
Optimum Spray Wax on top high def sealant? It'll really make things glow!

Tom
 
No...Actually makes it more glossy.

Do this if you can. Leave high def on paint for 24 hours and remove. Do couple of washes---couple of times with in a month or two. See how high def holds up.

Then do a wash and then add Optimum---You should see a marked increase in gloss.

That will give you a true visual proof that Optimum is key to the gloss.

Tom
 
•Some people say that they will often
layer a (“dedicated”) Sealant on top
of an AIO-Sealant—(along with differing
reasonings/abundance of assumptions
of what this layering action actually does).

Anyway...

•You are going to be doing a similar action:
-[You’ve stated you’re going to layer McKee’s
37 Hi-Def Sealant (a “dedicated” Sealant)
over McKee’s 37 360 (an AIO-Sealant)]

•At this point—and not knowing what your
maintenance plan entails—I personally
would not want to effectuate any changes
to the characteristics of the Sealant-combo
that’s already been applied (360/Hi-Def)
by applying one of the other two Sealants
(listed in your thread-starter’s title) on top.


•Just a suggestion:
-Instead of using spray Sealants...interject
McKee’s 37 N-914 into your maintenance plan:
It won’t mess with 360’s/Hi-Def’s characteristics.


Bob
 
I would also suggest Optimum Spray Wax over Hi Def sealant. The reason is, Optimums Spray Wax has a unique feature in that it will reintroduce the UV absorbing particles of the clearcoat back into it bit by bit with consistent use. Now I know that Optimum Spray Wax over Optiseal, the UV protectants will go through the Optiseal back into the clearcoat. I have a feeling that it will do the same but not as effectively over Hi Def sealant.
 
After all of this discussion, is there any sealant-wax/wax-sealant combinations that are detrimental? Seriously, sealants and waxes are all positive in effect but is there a case where negation might result in detriment because of a combination of some sealant and some wax? I believe they all co-exist with each other.
 
Well a sealant and a wax that both use the same solvent or carrier substance might not be great since there's a chance you're removing the sealant with the wax.
 
I would encourage you to try both and see which one you like more.

I'm proud to admit that Optimum Car Wax was the benchmark during the development of McKee's 37 FAST Wax. We analyzed every single formula on the market, and Optimum Car Wax had by far the most "good stuff" in its respective formula. I'm also good friends with the owner and chemist of Optimum Polymer Technologies, Dr. David Ghodoussi. Top notch company.

With that being said, I'm certain that McKee's 37 FAST Wax can "hang" with Optimum Car Wax in any comparison - gloss, slickness, paint protection, etc etc. You will find that McKee's 37 FAST Wax is by far the easiest spray wax on the market (in my biased - but, extremely experienced - opinion. :o), especially working on BLACK paint in a humid climate. You will have absolutely ZERO issues with the application of this product. My goal was to take "dummy proof" to a whole new level. :xyxthumbs:
 
I would definitely agree with Nick. Try both. They're both great products and easy to use. I mean do half with one half with the other see which one you like more.
 
All great suggestions folks...thanks! Was hoping to not buy both but thats probably best way to do a side by side test. With only 2 cars to look after it will last a very long time...but McKee's has told me that the Fast Wax is also suitable for gelcoat finish on our trailer, (although they did say that their RV line would be more suitable to a gelcoat) so I can go through a fair bit of it on there.
 
I have not tried the Mckee's but referring to the statement with the trailer. I have a 32' 5th wheel with approx. 960 sq. ft. of fiberglass. I have Collinite as a base and use Optimum Wash and Wax as a rinseless and QD (because of the added Car Wax in this product). Then at no longer than 3 Months I add a coat of Optimum Car Wax and repeat every 3 Months or so. I have had to Rotary/Compound this beast several times over the years until finally coming up with this regiment. Granted, there are still times I have to break out the Collinite 870 but that is still a whole lot better than the rotary, wool pad, compound and the endless hours of work.

Dave
 
davidc said:
I have not tried the Mckee's but referring to the statement with the trailer. I have a 32' 5th wheel with approx. 960 sq. ft. of fiberglass. I have Collinite as a base and use Optimum Wash and Wax as a rinseless and QD (because of the added Car Wax in this product). Then at no longer than 3 Months I add a coat of Optimum Car Wax and repeat every 3 Months or so. I have had to Rotary/Compound this beast several times over the years until finally coming up with this regiment. Granted, there are still times I have to break out the Collinite 870 but that is still a whole lot better than the rotary, wool pad, compound and the endless hours of work.

Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks for that suggestion...I have a 31ft 5th wheel and know all too well about how much work it is to keep up the shine and protection on that...I currently use a Meguiar's wax on it but find it doesn't last long enough. I also like to wash it after every trip but often it's not all that dirty, more dusty than anything many times unless we get caught driving in the rain. So I have been looking for a good solution for a rinseless and may just copy your routine. I have never tried the Collonite so will look into that as well. Do you go over your graphics/decals with the Optimum products? If I go the Collonite route I imagine I need to remove the Meguiar's product that is currently still on there?
 
luvmyrv said:
Thanks for that suggestion...I have a 31ft 5th wheel and know all too well about how much work it is to keep up the shine and protection on that...I currently use a Meguiar's wax on it but find it doesn't last long enough. I also like to wash it after every trip but often it's not all that dirty, more dusty than anything many times unless we get caught driving in the rain. So I have been looking for a good solution for a rinseless and may just copy your routine. I have never tried the Collonite so will look into that as well. Do you go over your graphics/decals with the Optimum products? If I go the Collonite route I imagine I need to remove the Meguiar's product that is currently still on there?
Click to expand...

I would use the 870 as it is a cleaner wax with 885 added in to remove any previous wax/contamination. When I go that route in order, 870 then 885 or 476 or 925 or 845. 476 or 885 are the longest lasting and I try to do it once a year. All of those can also be used on vehicles if desired. After a week rinseless wash then Car Wax. I apply everything over the existing 15 year old decals with no ill effects. After that initial start I do the routine rinseless wash/Car Wax application. All the applications I use Buff and Shine's Orange pad for 870 then a Red Pad for wax application just as a reference on pad selection. A MF cloth for Drying and Car Wax application. I have at times gone around the RV with a MF cloth and Wash and Wax mixed as a QD. So far the UVA and UVB protection appears to be doing it's job. I religiously use and do the same on the vehicles and have seen no ill effects with the 870. The vehicles colors are Desert Sand (Toyota) and Driftwood ( Silvery Copper mix on Dodge).

Dave
 
Dave...Just so I am sure what you are saying...you are talking about a 2 step process right? 1st being the 870 followed by a 2nd step of 1 of the other 4. Your preference is the paste wax over the liquid?
 
luvmyrv said:
Dave...Just so I am sure what you are saying...you are talking about a 2 step process right? 1st being the 870 followed by a 2nd step of 1 of the other 4. Your preference is the paste wax over the liquid?
Click to expand...

Yes. Initially that would be required. Occasionally it may have to be done again, I did it after 2 years as fiberglass sitting outside eventually oxidizes no matter what. I generally use the paste as I really want it to last as long as possible. If using a DA some use a butter knife to spread on the pad, some a old credit card, I have used a Body filler plastic spreader cut to the can opening. The liquids are good if you get the itch to wax after 6 Months:laughing:

Dave
 
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