Optimums Opti-Coat

[PAR Detailing]

I don't get the whole "wipe down after 10 minutes" thing. I've read many reviews on this product and people writing most of these reviews act like this is like putiing on a wax...you know WOWO. If this truly is like putting down a new layer of top coat...have you ever seen a guy paint a car with clear top coat and then wipe it? In my view this needs to be applied right the first time without wiping it at all...otherwise it won't be applied as it was designed. The surface will be rough for lack of a better term. You wipe with a mf towel and I don't see how it lays down flat.

Have you used Opti-Coat before?

When you apply it the product will flash off and disappear but there will be "high" spots that wont flash off. Those require you to gently wipe with a mf or wipe with your applicator to get it to flash off. You arent wiping like you are taking off turtle wax you are gently caressing the high spots with your MF towel.

You will understand once you use it if you havent already.

 

[silverfox]

There are still things that are unclear about this product:

1) Paint prep...seems there are as many ways as opinions.

2) How much is too much..?..(2 drops per panel, 4 drops....)...do you have to prime the pad first..?...again, the directions say to apply a very small amount onto the paint (...that really clears things up..!)... I would imagine that this step is the most crucial...knowing how much (or little) to apply, or else you will have to correct the result. Too little and you mar the paint with a dry pad. Too much and you are correcting the mistake of over application because its uneven...oh, and by-the-way...its permanent. I love the disclaimer that you have to check when you buy the stuff. I've never known a product that is seemingly is so easy to apply...that requires a disclaimer when you buy it. Ouch, gotta love the lawyers.

3) This whole thing about buffing after 5 minutes or 30 seconds, or whatever should be clearly stated that you do this ONLY to correct it if you applied too much (uneven). I read a review on Autopia where the guy actually buffed it after 10 minutes of putting it down....somebody who claimed to be experienced...only to find out that Dr G says that the intention of the product is to NOT touch it once its applied. Go figure.

I think the only way for my peace of mind is to experiment on my own on the bumper or lower body panel area. My paint is near perfect right now and yes, I would love to protect it with such a product...but the consequences of not having some experience with this makes me pause.

I seriously am more confused about this product that I was before reading the opinions and reviews floating around the Internet since it was released to the public so to speak.

While on the subject of Optimum... I love their products, but this reminds me a lot of when the Hyper Spray Polish came out...its a GREAT product, the best I've used in a long time....but the videos promoting the stuff shows Mike easily spraying a nice fine mist of polish onto the pad...when in reality I defy anybody to get that spray head dialed in to correctly apply the polish to the pad without spraying it all over the place including yourself. I wonder how long it took in terms of adjusting the spray head or how many "takes" it took when they shot that video before the product sprayed out as easily as it looked. Sometimes we see things that look and sound very easy, but in reality its more of a challenge than we think.

I hope when I try the Opti-Coat that my concerns were unfounded. Being an Engineer, I tend to over analyze at times because I like order and precision....but sometimes you have to just fling it.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I just applied 2.0 the other night. I too was frustrated by the fact it came with no instructions and there is a lot of contradictory information on the internet. I would definitely apply it to a beater car first to get the feel. I was so concerned about over applying it that I probably applied too thin-just under 5cc on a reg cab tacoma. I could see it go on but it would flash almost instantly. Being OCD it has me on edge. I did go back and apply heavily to one panel and I can say you probably don't need to be too worried about overapplying as the product flashes pretty well and you have plenty of time to even out any heavy spots after a few minutes. I'd use the applicator after 5-10 minutes and lightly touch any heavy spots that are still wet (oily, rainbow like glow). You'll be able to see the difference as soon as it is applied.

For prep I simply polished with M205, sprayed with Power Clean @ 3:1and took a mitt with Dawn to the paint without removing the power clean. This was Chris' recommendation and it worked great. It totally killed beading and removed any trace of LSP or polish. Prior to polishing I found Power Clean had a hard time killing Collinite 845 so I'd definitely polish prior to application.

Here's the only official instuctions I found:

Store - Opti Coat 2.0

DIRECTIONS
1. Remove defects to your satisfaction
2. Clean surface to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicone.
3. Prime the applicator by making an X across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
4. Wipe Opti-Coat on a single panel at a time in a thin layer using several directions for even coverage.
5. Inspect the panel with adequate lighting withing 5-10 minutes looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
6. Use applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out (no pressure)any spots where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be abrasively repaired is allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self -leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired.

NOTE: Take care to get complete coverage in your initial application as Opti Coat CANNOT be layered.

Personally I wish I hadn't worried so much about a thin coat and went thicker to ensure the best coverage. I had a lot of friction from the applicator pad following their instructions. I did one panel purposely thick and didn't have any issues. You can recoat a panel within a few minutes without issue, but if you let it go say 15-20 something minutes the product will act differently and just become hazy. I'm going to do my wife's car next, which I'm more particular about, and I will definitely go thicker. Especially since her paint in prone to marring.

 

[Chris Thomas]

There are still things that are unclear about this product:

1) Paint prep...seems there are as many ways as opinions.

2) How much is too much..?..(2 drops per panel, 4 drops....)...do you have to prime the pad first..?...again, the directions say to apply a very small amount onto the paint (...that really clears things up..!)... I would imagine that this step is the most crucial...knowing how much (or little) to apply, or else you will have to correct the result. Too little and you mar the paint with a dry pad. Too much and you are correcting the mistake of over application because its uneven...oh, and by-the-way...its permanent. I love the disclaimer that you have to check when you buy the stuff. I've never known a product that is seemingly is so easy to apply...that requires a disclaimer when you buy it. Ouch, gotta love the lawyers.

3) This whole thing about buffing after 5 minutes or 30 seconds, or whatever should be clearly stated that you do this ONLY to correct it if you applied too much (uneven). I read a review on Autopia where the guy actually buffed it after 10 minutes of putting it down....somebody who claimed to be experienced...only to find out that Dr G says that the intention of the product is to NOT touch it once its applied. Go figure.

I think the only way for my peace of mind is to experiment on my own on the bumper or lower body panel area. My paint is near perfect right now and yes, I would love to protect it with such a product...but the consequences of not having some experience with this makes me pause.

I seriously am more confused about this product that I was before reading the opinions and reviews floating around the Internet since it was released to the public so to speak.

While on the subject of Optimum... I love their products, but this reminds me a lot of when the Hyper Spray Polish came out...its a GREAT product, the best I've used in a long time....but the videos promoting the stuff shows Mike easily spraying a nice fine mist of polish onto the pad...when in reality I defy anybody to get that spray head dialed in to correctly apply the polish to the pad without spraying it all over the place including yourself. I wonder how long it took in terms of adjusting the spray head or how many "takes" it took when they shot that video before the product sprayed out as easily as it looked. Sometimes we see things that look and sound very easy, but in reality its more of a challenge than we think.

I hope when I try the Opti-Coat that my concerns were unfounded. Being an Engineer, I tend to over analyze at times because I like order and precision....but sometimes you have to just fling it.

Your last sentence sums it up. It's as easy as Opti Seal just make sure anything that does go clear after the rest of the panel has is evened out. As far as paint prep. Remove defects to YOUR satisfaction and clean with something that removes oils and wax, pretty simply really.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk

 

[Chris Thomas]

I just applied 2.0 the other night. I too was frustrated by the fact it came with no instructions and there is a lot of contradictory information on the internet. I would definitely apply it to a beater car first to get the feel. I was so concerned about over applying it that I probably applied too thin-just under 5cc on a reg cab tacoma. I could see it go on but it would flash almost instantly. Being OCD it has me on edge. I did go back and apply heavily to one panel and I can say you probably don't need to be too worried about overapplying as the product flashes pretty well and you have plenty of time to even out any heavy spots after a few minutes. I'd use the applicator after 5-10 minutes and lightly touch any heavy spots that are still wet (oily, rainbow like glow). You'll be able to see the difference as soon as it is applied.

For prep I simply polished with M205, sprayed with Power Clean @ 3:1and took a mitt with Dawn to the paint without removing the power clean. This was Chris' recommendation and it worked great. It totally killed beading and removed any trace of LSP or polish. Prior to polishing I found Power Clean had a hard time killing Collinite 845 so I'd definitely polish prior to application.

Here's the only official instuctions I found:

Store - Opti Coat 2.0



Personally I wish I hadn't worried so much about a thin coat and went thicker to ensure the best coverage. I had a lot of friction from the applicator pad following their instructions. I did one panel purposely thick and didn't have any issues. You can recoat a panel within a few minutes without issue, but if you let it go say 15-20 something minutes the product will act differently and just become hazy. I'm going to do my wife's car next, which I'm more particular about, and I will definitely go thicker. Especially since her paint in prone to marring.

I'm sorry for your frustration. Your concerns are one of the reasons we used to only offer the product to pros. If we could just come out and demo it for everyone who bought it, you'd see how easy it is and have more confidence going in. Thats what I told Mike Phillips when discussing application. I told him not to be hesitant or cautious, but to just apply it like you had already used it many times. Apply it just like you were using Opti Seal...just check the panels with good lighting before you move on. We will improve the packaging and include more detailed instructions (the ones you posted, actually) in the near future. One of the reasons you may be finding conflicting information is that no one has used 2.0 and the original is a little different.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk

 

[Setec Astronomy]

To those members that are having frustration and/or confusion about the application of this product, do you have experience applying WOWA sealants (Opti-Seal, UPGP, Z-CS)? As has been stated here or in other threads, the Opti-Coat application is very similar to Opti-Seal, if you're concerned about goofing up with a "permanent" product, perhaps you should "practice" with Opti-Seal to get the hang of it.

IIRC in order to get the original pro Opti-Coat, you got grilled by Dr. G about your WOWA experience before he would let you have it.

Honestly, if you have used the WOWA products all the descriptions of high spots and flashing, etc., sound very familiar.

 

[fishnugget]

I think it would be helpful if someone posted a DIY video on the new Optimum 2.0 product. This would definitely clear up a lot of confusion.

 

[ScottB]

After the first application you will feel much more comfortable, you really need to get out there and try it. The whole idea is to allow it a bit of time to disappear, and if it doesnt buff it off. Now I dont mean two days later, but more like revisiting the panel after finishing the next one.

 

[eanelson]

Rather than start a new thread, I'll just revive this one.

I am NEW to detailing. Until yesterday I had never picked up a DA polisher. Yesterday I used my GG DA and did an m105/m205 treatment on my wife's car. After that I washed it and sprayed OPC to remove any residue during the wash. The last step was to apply OC 2.0.

My review: :applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause:

Great job Optimum! This product is fantastic. We had a rain storm this evening and I don't think I've had so much fun driving my car in the rain, well, ever. I probably watched the water flying off hood more than I watched the road :doh:. Once I got above 40mph it was amazing how it just runs off.

Reading the threads on OC 2.0 application, I was somewhat intimidated going into it but I just went for it. I found it VERY easy to apply. The only hiccup I had in the entire process was right when I began. I noticed the air bubble in the syringe and figured I would get it out (similar to how you get air bubbles out of a medical syringe) by pointing it in the air and depressing the plunger. I managed to splatter OC 2.0 on the rear passenger side panel so I had to hurry and start my application without any real planning. :doh:

It was a breeze to apply. I applied to one panel and then another. After I was finished with the second panel, I would go back to the first to check for high spots.

I drove the car in the rain and it was so fun. After that I came back and tested the sheeting and it is as advertised. Finally, I got out my ridgid wet/dry vac leaf blower part and blew off the car. That was crazy fun as well -- the car ended up about 95% dry just from that. I think I can give away my WW towels! I don't have it on the glass yet as it was dirty yesterday and I didn't have time to clean and apply it. I applied it to all of the painted parts on my wife's 2008 Subaru Legacy and only used 5ml.

Thanks again Optimum and Autogeek. This product rocks. I hope this lasts as long as Chris@Optimum's has.

 

[AndySRT]

just a quick question about opti-coat i have factory decals down the side of my car whould i be able to use the opti-coat over the decals?

 

[Chris Thomas]

Rather than start a new thread, I'll just revive this one.

I am NEW to detailing. Until yesterday I had never picked up a DA polisher. Yesterday I used my GG DA and did an m105/m205 treatment on my wife's car. After that I washed it and sprayed OPC to remove any residue during the wash. The last step was to apply OC 2.0.

My review: :applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause:

Great job Optimum! This product is fantastic. We had a rain storm this evening and I don't think I've had so much fun driving my car in the rain, well, ever. I probably watched the water flying off hood more than I watched the road :doh:. Once I got above 40mph it was amazing how it just runs off.

Reading the threads on OC 2.0 application, I was somewhat intimidated going into it but I just went for it. I found it VERY easy to apply. The only hiccup I had in the entire process was right when I began. I noticed the air bubble in the syringe and figured I would get it out (similar to how you get air bubbles out of a medical syringe) by pointing it in the air and depressing the plunger. I managed to splatter OC 2.0 on the rear passenger side panel so I had to hurry and start my application without any real planning. :doh:

It was a breeze to apply. I applied to one panel and then another. After I was finished with the second panel, I would go back to the first to check for high spots.

I drove the car in the rain and it was so fun. After that I came back and tested the sheeting and it is as advertised. Finally, I got out my ridgid wet/dry vac leaf blower part and blew off the car. That was crazy fun as well -- the car ended up about 95% dry just from that. I think I can give away my WW towels! I don't have it on the glass yet as it was dirty yesterday and I didn't have time to clean and apply it. I applied it to all of the painted parts on my wife's 2008 Subaru Legacy and only used 5ml.

Thanks again Optimum and Autogeek. This product rocks. I hope this lasts as long as Chris@Optimum's has.

Thank you so much for sharing! Your experience depicts how I would think a typical application should go. With as many syringes as we have sold compared to how few application problem threads I have read, it makes me think we hear from those frustrated by the process more than those who had a "normal" experience. Don't forget to post updates and pics if you have time.

just a quick question about opti-coat i have factory decals down the side of my car whould i be able to use the opti-coat over the decals?

Yes, decals can certainly be coated with confidence.