Orange Peel - A slow victim of the DA?

Blackthorn One said:
"From what I can see" is the the operative phrase. from that angle, it looks as I described. However, he can see the car from all angles. If the peel looks deeper than that from other angles then he has the advantage, and needs to be more cautious.
As far as the quarter looking worse after he does the door, to ME, the door looks worse right now, so doing the door will make them look more even.

If this is to be done at all, it should not be sanded down to the deepest valleys of the peel. The high parts of the peel relative to the valleys are what bothers, so if one is very conservative and stay far away from the deep parts, I think improvement could be made at rather moderate cc loss.

Perfection is unrealistic here but a small improvement seemed to be what he was looking for based on the thread's title.

As I said initially, I don't think that sanding factory clear is practical. What if scratches happen later and you would really need that greater thickness to sand down to remove scratches?
Paint needs to be a certain thickness to have longevity, and factory paint tends to be thinner than show car's paint.
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You are giving advice on sanding OEM

Have you sanded OEM clear?
 
allenk4 said:
You are giving advice on sanding OEM

Have you sanded OEM clear?
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I have sanded single stage lacquer, enamel, and urethane. I have also sanded clear urethane. I have seen how thin OEM cc is, and have heard others say how thin it is because they measured.

OEM cc is thinner than show car clear, or body shop cc.

I know enough about sanding paint to give some advice on it.
Every car can be different. Every cc thickness can be different. There is no way to know how thick cc is on any particular car unless you sprayed it yourself or measured it with a gauge.
I have seen enough videos on sanding oem to have a good enough idea about it.
It is always best to be conservative, and even then know that you reduce the paint's longevity if you were to sand it, UNLESS it was painted extra thick at the body shop to allow for extensive sanding to yield a perfect finish with optimum thickness for longevity.
 
Most show cars that are not OEM creations have several "thick" coats of paint and clear coat that are wet sanded several times between the start and end processes. The paint is as near perfect as possible. You will never achieve that level of perfection from any car coming off an assembly line unless part of the manufacturing process is wet sanding between coats.

I've been to enough car shows to know in many cases some orange peel is perfectly fine. For daily drivers it's a moot point.
 
silverfox said:
Most show cars that are not OEM creations have several "thick" coats of paint and clear coat that are wet sanded several times between the start and end processes. The paint is as near perfect as possible. You will never achieve that level of perfection from any car coming off an assembly line unless part of the manufacturing process is wet sanding between coats.

I've been to enough car shows to know in many cases some orange peel is perfectly fine. For daily drivers it's a moot point.
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That's generally true. Some cars like Lexus and Infinity have no orange peel, though. Do they sand between coats?
 
Whether painted by a computerized robot or the human hand, paint can't be applied perfectly enough to avoid some imperfections. Some may be more noticeable than others but true perfection requires paint to be either sanded or perhaps buffed carefully by human hands between coats.

Think about it...manufacturing processes require paint formulations to be changed sometimes several times in one shift. How can perfection be had that way? I guess my opinion of near perfect paint requires the human touch at some point in the process to eliminate manufacturing imperfections.

Considering how super thin manufacture's paint is, its hard to imagine lots of wet sanding going on before coming off the line unless there are several coats on the car
 
I'll comment on how often I Polish my cars.

First the RAV, single stage paint so easy I polish it 3-4 times per year using a super fine polish and pad.
The RAV is an 08' and looks better then when I bought it.
Optimum Fine Polish is safe to use as often as you need or like.

My 96' GMC I polish it using Meguiar's 205 Ultra Fine Polish along with a white pad 2-3 time per year.

I just bought a brand new red 2014 Mirage, plans is to Polish it 3-4 time each year to keel in looking like new.


On my 96' GMC I've used heavy compounds on it being I drive it a 100 miles each day, no signs of clear coat failure but I wouldn't recommend it unless it's really needed, the 205 using an orange pad can correct more then people give credit to it.

The RAV's paint is super soft.
The a Mirage pretty darn hard, same applies for my 96' GMC
 
sethr said:
Dealing with OP is normally done by the paint shop within a day or two after clear coat. When it is softer.
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And to this comment, I have an article that explains this in detail. Probably the only article on the net that explains what wetsanding is, when it's done and clears up all the confusion and questions about the topic of wet sanding.


Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint


In fact, the entire reason I wrote the article was to clear up all the confusion about wet sanding. Hasn't worked but the info in the article is just as accurate today as when I wrote it back in 2009



:)
 
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