Ordered Pinnacle Black Diamond Coating BUT...

artofdetailing said:
"By creating a polish that doesn’t have any oils, waxes, silicones, polymers or fillers, you can apply a paint coating immediately after polishing your paint with Detailer’s Coating Prep Polish. There is no need to chemically strip the paint using isopropyl alcohol or volatile wax and oil removers.

This is an excerpt taken from the DP prep polish page.

So if I use opti-eraser shouldn't the surface be clean enough for the coating?
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I get that. It makes sense if your paint is in awesome shape and only needs very light polishing. But, like other guys have already mentioned, if you've already done a ton of cleaning, claying, polishing and an IPA wipe, the paint should technically be laser clean, wouldn't the BL paint coating bond without the cleansing polish? In my mind it should bond unless, like somebody else mentioned, there is some type of catalyst or chemical reaction with the prep polishes.
 
melF1fan said:
^^

Bill-and-Teds-Excellent-Adventure-Whoa-Reaction-Gif.gif
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:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: So who's gonna be the guinea pig to test the durability of BL paint coating applied with only an IPA wipe, after a paint correction?
 
I like and respect Mike, but he's gotta sell products. I can't see him condoning not using the prep polishes.
 
So it sounds like the lotion is necessary otherwise you'll have to strip it and start all over right? So, the first step in that would probably be to wash the car.

So basically; it puts the lotion on it's skin or else it gets the hose again?
 
Romans5.8 said:
So it sounds like the lotion is necessary otherwise you'll have to strip it and start all over right? So, the first step in that would probably be to wash the car.

So basically; it puts the lotion on it's skin or else it gets the hose again?
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OK there, I laughed out loud.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
Trust:
In this "Networked World", trust is the most important currency. ~Eric Schmidt

Therefore...When the need arises to trust in someone/something:
I'd say that you'd have to be okay with not understanding some things.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

Conversely:
statusdetailing said:
So who's gonna be the guinea pig to test the durability of BL paint coating applied
with only an IPA wipe, (or other 'panel wipes', I'll add), after a paint correction?
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One of the joys we have in being Human is in exercising our freedom to choose,
and to take each case as it comes to us. And as long as that remains true:
Won't we will live every day of our lives on one slippery slope or another?

However: I see no reason to fear this.


:)

Bob
 
artofdetailing said:
bump
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In the end:
Who you gonna trust?
How about one of "these folks"?

1.)
"Trust thyself only, and another shall not betray thee". ~Thomas Fuller

Or:

2.)
The only way to make someone/something trustworthy is:...Is to just trust them.

:)

Bob
 
VP Mark said:
I Dont understand the difference here. If the goal if the coating prep is for the paint to be clean, what does it matter if you use Eraser, dp prep polish, IPA, etc. If the paint is clean? I use Eraser for DP paint coating on almost a daily basis and it works great.

Unless there is a true catalyst that helps activate the coating, I see a lot of these products as a bunch of marketing hype. Do they work? Surely. Do you NEED them for a specific product to bond correctly? Meh. Prove it. :)

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
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Exactly!!!

statusdetailing said:
:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: So who's gonna be the guinea pig to test the durability of BL paint coating applied with only an IPA wipe, after a paint correction?
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Guess that'd be ME! :rolleyes:

Did the right side of the wife's Denali with BLPC Sunday night. Did a light polish first on the whole truck, (not going to do a total paint correction, what swirls are still there can freaking stay, at least for the winter.). :)

Wiped with a combination of Eraser and IPA.
(Didn't do the hood as I need to correct a few areas with Dr. Colorchip first. But I did put a couple coats of WGDPS on.)
I didn't finish the left side with BLPC due to being 4 hours late for dinner and a small miniscule MAJOR problem with a protruding herniated disc! :eek: Does have a little protection on it from spray wax so we're good there. Literally couldn't get up the 2 steps from the garage to the kitchen when it was done though. :cry:
Still haven't been able to finish it, freezing temps tonight. At least I'm moving a bit today, just not doing any buffing.

It's clear this week though so I'll probably finish it Thursday when it warms back up a bit.

statusdetailing said:
I like and respect Mike, but he's gotta sell products. I can't see him condoning not using the prep polishes.
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So far, and I asked these questions last week, no answers from AG on the matter. :dunno:

I'd think that your typical wipe down would work. I mean if it'll work for OC or cQuartz why not would it work for BL?

Guess time will tell. :dunno:
 
Its interesting that nobody from Palm Beach Motoring/Autogeek can chime in here.
 
artofdetailing said:
Its interesting that nobody from Palm Beach Motoring/Autogeek can chime in here.
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LOL! This is a fast moving thread!

I did have the same question and took the liberty to chat them after receiving my products. They do RECOMMEND the polish/cleanser HOWEVER I did get a confirmation that IPA 15% is another acceptable variance in the prep before the coating. I also was told NOT TO use CarPro Eraser. Since I do IPA's I did not ask why no Eraser but that is the information I got directly from them.

Hope it helps!

P.S. Work Clean!!! Wear nitrile gloves (to prevent oils from your skin from contaminating your applicator or suede MF cloth, and don't sweat all over your work (wear a headband or cap etc...). Anything that does come to contaminate your area or cross contaminate your applicator will affect the longevity of your product.
 
One simple question I have any any Coatings, no matter who makes them, if applying on virgin paint, via rattle can, or any other type or method?

That in such instances, no paint prep cleansing product would be required beforehand, correct?

Or course, any polishing, glazing, compounding, then most bets would most likely be off, and cleansing the paint would be required, correct?
Thanks, Mark
 
I got my little order from AG yesterday, the Pinnacle BL Paint Coating, and bought both Pinnacle, and DP Paint Cleansers. Also grabbed a bottle of WG Uber Coumpound, and some foam Applcators, both the LC Square Applicators, and some Pinnacle 4" round yellow foam, as I was just about out of those.

Not sure about doing my test mule junker Kia Spectra with the Pinnacle Coating (Since I have the DP Coating on it already), but I might do the Tahoe? Depends on time, and weather?
Mark
 
Dr_Pain said:
LOL! This is a fast moving thread!

I did have the same question and took the liberty to chat them after receiving my products. They do RECOMMEND the polish/cleanser HOWEVER I did get a confirmation that IPA 15% is another acceptable variance in the prep before the coating. I also was told NOT TO use CarPro Eraser. Since I do IPA's I did not ask why no Eraser but that is the information I got directly from them.

Hope it helps!

P.S. Work Clean!!! Wear nitrile gloves (to prevent oils from your skin from contaminating your applicator or suede MF cloth, and don't sweat all over your work (wear a headband or cap etc...). Anything that does come to contaminate your area or cross contaminate your applicator will affect the longevity of your product.
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I wonder why not use eraser in any instance since eraser is supposed to be better than IPA?

Until I saw this post, I didn't think it would be so critical to wear gloves but that is so true. Wow, I thought people wore the gloves to protect their hands. I guess I need to order some.
 
MarkD51 said:
One simple question I have any any Coatings, no matter who makes them, if applying on virgin paint, via rattle can, or any other type or method?

That in such instances, no paint prep cleansing product would be required beforehand, correct?

Or course, any polishing, glazing, compounding, then most bets would most likely be off, and cleansing the paint would be required, correct?
Thanks, Mark
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Mark, I will venture in "assumption land" a bit, so correct me if I am wrong. By "virgin paint" I am assuming that you are referring to fresh out of the body shop right? Well, sorry to say that at the body shop although they create the freshly applied paint, they do have to sand, compound and polish the paint to cut the orange peel, and polish to a shine. All those products leave "stuff" behind and none of that stuff is coating friendly. If you were referring to "right off the showroom floor" then you are assuming that the last step at the manufacturing plant was a cleansing bath and that it was wrapped in bubble wrap by a bunch of mignons in space suits, and that nobody at the dealership touch, sneezed, drooled over the car as it was taken off the truck by another guy in a haz mat suit.

I am being a little facetious but there is no such thing as "virgin paint". Even if you clean the car to a squeaky clean level, and leave it over night so you can do the coating in the morning, you will have to do a final wipedown to remove the dust and other fine particles that are flying all over, not to mention the bug doodoo and other bug related stuff etc....

The best paint surface you can have is the one you will produce. :dblthumb2:
 
runrun411 said:
I wonder why not use eraser in any instance since eraser is supposed to be better than IPA?

Until I saw this post, I didn't think it would be so critical to wear gloves but that is so true. Wow, I thought people wore the gloves to protect their hands. I guess I need to order some.
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Not sure brother, I am more intrigued now than I was back then just to understand the interfering mechanics of Eraser. If it is good enough for OptiCoat, it should be good enough for any other coating!?!

Glove needs fall under 2 categories:
- 1) your protection, because as Mike say "If it on you, its in you!"
- 2) For the protection of your work. Again, as Mike say, "Work Clean". Cross contamination from body oils or other secretions will affect the product and its function. If the chemist had intended for you to have "forehead sweat" or "body oils" as part of their formulation (because it enhanced some properties of the product), then they would have added it at the manufacturing end and not depend on the end user to sweat all over it :props:
 
Dr_Pain said:
Mark, I will venture in "assumption land" a bit, so correct me if I am wrong. By "virgin paint" I am assuming that you are referring to fresh out of the body shop right? Well, sorry to say that at the body shop although they create the freshly applied paint, they do have to sand, compound and polish the paint to cut the orange peel, and polish to a shine. All those products leave "stuff" behind and none of that stuff is coating friendly. If you were referring to "right off the showroom floor" then you are assuming that the last step at the manufacturing plant was a cleansing bath and that it was wrapped in bubble wrap by a bunch of mignons in space suits, and that nobody at the dealership touch, sneezed, drooled over the car as it was taken off the truck by another guy in a haz mat suit.

I am being a little facetious but there is no such thing as "virgin paint". Even if you clean the car to a squeaky clean level, and leave it over night so you can do the coating in the morning, you will have to do a final wipedown to remove the dust and other fine particles that are flying all over, not to mention the bug doodoo and other bug related stuff etc....

The best paint surface you can have is the one you will produce. :dblthumb2:
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Hello Dr Pain,
Yes, I know what you mean, that with basically any body-paint shop, the work isn't done after a spray, and bake.

There has to be more that comes after. Otherwise the paint would look like it was sprayed in Typhoon Haiman.

I was basically speaking of a paint that you know "nothing" has been done after spraying.
Thanks, Mark
 
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