Overwhelmed With Options (New Car Protection)
- Thread starter RNR89JV
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acuRAS82
New member
- May 30, 2017
- 2,847
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To OP: You were looking at WG coating kit... there’s so many kits I’m not sure which one you saw. But if f it’s the coating that would be your main LSP, be aware that it’s a little bit more involved than a quick waxing; both in prep and application. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t start with a coating if you are new to this stuff, but make sure to research the process and block off ample time to work on the car.
If you’re interested in starting with a more forgiving process, Collinite 845, 476, 915 are all solid, durable and easy to reapply whenever you think it’s needed. WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or SiO2 Paint Sealant, same idea. Any sealant or wax should be able to be applied right after whatever polish/clay/prep you want to perform and they are generally ok to be topped with further layers every 2-6 months with minimal additional preparation.
If you’re interested in starting with a more forgiving process, Collinite 845, 476, 915 are all solid, durable and easy to reapply whenever you think it’s needed. WG Deep Gloss Paint Sealant or SiO2 Paint Sealant, same idea. Any sealant or wax should be able to be applied right after whatever polish/clay/prep you want to perform and they are generally ok to be topped with further layers every 2-6 months with minimal additional preparation.
- Thread starter
- #23
Hello Tom, I currently do not so that was also a concern I had ans debated investing in a budget friendly one. Otherwise a product that can do decent to such a new vehicle by hand applications and good maintenance.
Everyone before Toms post, I read your comments and appreciate them all, I am only using my cell and couldn’t respond to quoting each one but will throughout tomorrow if it’s applicable. I’ll allow follow this post to any others. Again thank you everyone
I likely did just overthink it and read way too much options.- Thread starter
- #24
I have had a small section applied to the front and lower sections were done by factory actually. Thank you for this tip of course.
- Thread starter
- #25
Hello, I was considering a few kits. One was the deep gloss and collinite 845, the kit was titled “Facebook Favorite” here on AG if I’m not mistaken. Otherwise I was looking at a 3-4 bottle concurs kit.
I am interested in a forgiving kit so I can learn as I own the vehicle and wish to try different products if I’m dissatisfied, so that somewhat ruled out my thought of a ceramic. As you mentioned I also was considering the si02 kits by Wolfgang. With everyone’s comments this far as well as yours I’m leaning towards the Facebook favorite kit or the deep gloss concurs kit. I also feel comfortable using a iron x or decon for the insurance factor as I’ve read many posts of mike and several others suggesting it. This vehicle has been off road a few times already and likely was transported on train before a flatbed.
Thank you for the suggestions and tips!
- Thread starter
- #26
I'd say do your research on the products you're interested in but when it comes to abrasive technology, that is compounds, polishes and all-in-ones, don't skimp. Not even for white colored cars. Clearcoats are thin.
Got it thanks Mike. CG is out then
. It was hardly in but it was a back burner idea. Think I’ll just forget that one.
Coatingsarecrack
Well-known member
- Dec 9, 2018
- 7,884
- 574
Out of what you mentioned and going off roading i think the Wolfgang coating would be the route. If not wanting to go full coating I would start with their spray coating. Gets great rwviews, easy to use, last long.
Top it with their sio2 spray every 3-6 months if you want.
Side note: Don’t be afraid of their full blown consumer coating. It is pretty easy to use and not much more difficult than a sealant to apply and remove.
Just keep an eye out for high spots. This would be your strongest protection.
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Top it with their sio2 spray every 3-6 months if you want.
Side note: Don’t be afraid of their full blown consumer coating. It is pretty easy to use and not much more difficult than a sealant to apply and remove.
Just keep an eye out for high spots. This would be your strongest protection.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Klasse Act
Well-known member
- Feb 21, 2012
- 27,705
- 2,735
Chemical Guys sucks for durability, LOL. You mentioned Collinite #845 and while I've used it in the past and its VERY easy to use it doesn't seem to last all that long. That said, Collinite #476 on the other hand, DOES last quite a bit of time, same with #915. I guess it's because #476 & #915 are past and #845 is liquid.
Your going to get a ton of different answers here, which might add to being overwhelmed
In closing, on a larger SUV, once you've got it protected, I'd maintain it with a spray on, hose off product like 303 Touchless sealant because it's so damn easy to use, something to think about, especially on a larger SUV
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Your going to get a ton of different answers here, which might add to being overwhelmed
In closing, on a larger SUV, once you've got it protected, I'd maintain it with a spray on, hose off product like 303 Touchless sealant because it's so damn easy to use, something to think about, especially on a larger SUV
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I will add to the confusion by giving you my opinion. I have owned so many white cars over the years including a Toyota 4Runner many years ago. Owned a few 'real' Chevy Blazers used for running the wilds of Wyoming and Colorado.
Yes, do take time with the 'baggie' test and check the paint and then do chemical iron decon section and clay the surface lightly.
For the exterior protection pick whatever you find in the AG store that is easy to apply. Use it on a regular basis to keep the car looking it's best. If you do take the truck into the brush you are going to 'mar' that exterior layer. So pick something easy to apply frequently.
Give it time but do consider buying one of the Griot's Garage G9 DA buffers to use for any surface imperfections that will occur with your four wheeling adventures.
My storage cabinet is full of Facebook and YouTube recommended products: Collinite 845 and Collinite 915 waxes, Pinnacle waxes, McKee's, Blackfire, and Wolfgang products.
I do recommend the new 303 Graphene spray for the roof section for the protection it provides and easy to apply. For the lower sections pick easy, those will need frequent toppers if you trash in the brush. I do enjoy using the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating (spray) and then the topper with the Surface Protection ($$$$ - wait for a sale). That keeps the surfaces slick and glossy.
In the words of Mike Phillips, find a product YOU like to use and use it often. My final word, do not chase the latest and greatest unless you have a large storage area. LOL
TMQ
Active member
- Mar 4, 2015
- 2,243
- 0
Thomkirky is so spot on!
I got 3 or 4 grand of stuff I no longer use! Sitting in bins!
Since you don't have a polisher...
Do as Thomkirby outlined:
1. Iron-x (remove iron from clear coat).
2. Wash.
3. Clay with soapy water. (This will help flatten the surface a bit more).
4. Rinse and dry.
Then get some spray on stuff, wipe and done.
The new 303 Graphine: Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
This may just all you need: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating, paint coating, nano glass paint coating
Tom
I got 3 or 4 grand of stuff I no longer use! Sitting in bins!
Since you don't have a polisher...
Do as Thomkirby outlined:
1. Iron-x (remove iron from clear coat).
2. Wash.
3. Clay with soapy water. (This will help flatten the surface a bit more).
4. Rinse and dry.
Then get some spray on stuff, wipe and done.
The new 303 Graphine: Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
This may just all you need: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating, paint coating, nano glass paint coating
Tom
TMQ
Active member
- Mar 4, 2015
- 2,243
- 0
Thomkirky is so spot on!
I got 3 or 4 grand of stuff I no longer use! Sitting in bins!
Since you don't have a polisher...
Do as Thomkirby outlined:
1. Iron-x (remove iron from clear coat).
2. Wash.
3. Clay with soapy water. (This will help flatten the surface a bit more).
4. Rinse and dry.
Then get some spray on stuff, wipe and done.
The new 303 Graphine: Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
This may just all you need: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating, paint coating, nano glass paint coating
Get these, makes applying product really nice! Microfiber Applicators
Tom
I got 3 or 4 grand of stuff I no longer use! Sitting in bins!
Since you don't have a polisher...
Do as Thomkirby outlined:
1. Iron-x (remove iron from clear coat).
2. Wash.
3. Clay with soapy water. (This will help flatten the surface a bit more).
4. Rinse and dry.
Then get some spray on stuff, wipe and done.
The new 303 Graphine: Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
This may just all you need: Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Surface Coating, paint coating, nano glass paint coating
Get these, makes applying product really nice! Microfiber Applicators
Tom
- Thread starter
- #34
Thank you for all the comments, I do my best to avoid brush trails to minimize the damage to the paint but i know its inevitable. Can i ask for clarificaiton are you suggesting using a wax prior to using the Black Label Coating Spray? Or will their cleansing polish be plenty sufficient?
Tom does that Black Label Diamond Surface Coating actually hold up to its claims (to your knowledge or experience) of approximately 18months? For the next 6 months my vehicle will be intermittently parked inside and outside of our garage so i expect to reduce it by at least 4-6 months of that claim. If i can get 1 year of protection and good appearance out of that product i would be satisficed. Otherwise i'd rather lower the cost and reapply something else more frequently if that makes any sense.
Additionally can the 303 Graphene product be used as a final application on top of other sealants or is that becoming redundant and no gain?
joebruin77
Member
- Jan 1, 2019
- 272
- 0
Since you mentioned you had some PPF installed on the lower portions, just make sure whatever product you use is safe for PPF.
Before deciding on specific products, I would first decide on the type of product you prefer. Do you enjoy applying a paste wax and then buffing it off? Do you enjoy spending several hours detailing your car? Or do you prefer something that is as easy and quick to apply as possible? Do you mind reapplying your protection product every 3-5 months, or do you prefer something that lasts longer between applications?
If you enjoy detailing on your car, you could first apply a polymer sealant such as Powerlock and then follow that with a coat of Collinite 845. Your car would be protected and look amazing. But applying both products by hand would take quite a bit of time.
If you want something that provides a lot of protection but is faster and easier to apply, then I suggest going with an ceramic-infused spray sealant such as the Wolfgang SiO2 Spray Sealant. Products like this, IMO, are easier to apply. Plus, you can apply it to every hard exterior surface including black trim. If you are on a budget, Turtle Wax Seal and Shine is a surprisingly good product that offers decent gloss and excellent protection. The Turtle Wax Hyrbid Solutions line is also another lower cost option.
Although Chemical Guys has a couple of good products, for the most part, IMO, they are overhyped and overpriced and they tend to underperform. In general, you will find much better quality products here on AG.
Before deciding on specific products, I would first decide on the type of product you prefer. Do you enjoy applying a paste wax and then buffing it off? Do you enjoy spending several hours detailing your car? Or do you prefer something that is as easy and quick to apply as possible? Do you mind reapplying your protection product every 3-5 months, or do you prefer something that lasts longer between applications?
If you enjoy detailing on your car, you could first apply a polymer sealant such as Powerlock and then follow that with a coat of Collinite 845. Your car would be protected and look amazing. But applying both products by hand would take quite a bit of time.
If you want something that provides a lot of protection but is faster and easier to apply, then I suggest going with an ceramic-infused spray sealant such as the Wolfgang SiO2 Spray Sealant. Products like this, IMO, are easier to apply. Plus, you can apply it to every hard exterior surface including black trim. If you are on a budget, Turtle Wax Seal and Shine is a surprisingly good product that offers decent gloss and excellent protection. The Turtle Wax Hyrbid Solutions line is also another lower cost option.
Although Chemical Guys has a couple of good products, for the most part, IMO, they are overhyped and overpriced and they tend to underperform. In general, you will find much better quality products here on AG.
- Thread starter
- #39
I appreciate the comments, I wanted to go with the black label pinnacle products both cleansing polish and the coating, however after everything in my list I don’t think the wife will be too happy. I believe I’m leaning toward the WG polish enhancer & deep gloss 3.0. Followed by a final si02 coating or something similar, perhaps that 303 graphene nano spray. (I’ll make sure to clay bar it and use iron x in the process of course)
I’m on a budget per say, because I’m also looking to pickup a variety of other products for startup including the rinseless wash products buckets grit guards etc. I’m sure I’ll come up with a final decision this weekend and hopefully can post some before and after a so I can get advice ans tips if I missed any important steps/details for the next go around.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Nothing wrong with using a paint cleaner, but for all the time and work, you might as well use a REAL polish and get ALL the benefits of a paint cleaner PLUS you'll remove any minor paint defects. There's always been so much confusion over paint cleaners that I finally wrote an article for this topic.
A paint cleaner is an either/or product - The difference between a paint cleaner and a paint polish by Mike Phillips
Me?
Well first I only work by hand if I have to, for example showing how to work by hand for a video, TV or a a class. Other than that I'm part machine, I work like a machine and I use machines. So I don't use paint cleaners. If I'm going to rub or buff something over the paint I might as well perfect the paint at the same time so the minimum product I would use is a fine cut polish. Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is INCORRECTLY named. It was named LONG before I came to Autogeek. I have know idea who named it but they didn't know the difference between a glaze and a polish. The Wolfgang Finishing Glaze would be better named Wolfgang Fine Cut Polish. And it's a really nice fine cut polish.
And just to note - there are a LOT of companies that use the word glaze incorrectly. I have an article for this topic too...
Word Definitions - Compounds, Polishes, Glazes, Paint Cleaners and Waxes
Here are the only TRUE glazes that I know of according to my definition. And please, if anyone wants to take on the responsibility of writing for the car detailing industry as a whole - go for it. I do it because it's my passion.
Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze
3M Imperial Hand Glaze and Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
Although the title of this article states the info is for "coated" cars - if you think about it - the same info applies for any type of protection on a car. It's all about "touching" the paint carefully so as not to mar the paint in the car washing and drying process.
Things you need to wash a ceramic coated car by Mike Phillips