I have a 2003 Silver Saab 9-3 and paint is in good condition, but has water etchings. I already did a pass with an Orange CCS pad and Meg's Ultimate Compound and followed with Speed Glaze. It made a little difference but the etchings are still there. Should I do a few more passes with the compound or save time and use a CCS Yellow pad the next time?
Pad selection for water etchings
- Thread starter trencher7
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I am using 5-6 for speed with the PC XP. Spent about 5 min each section of the hood. I am using only a little force asd I was told to let the weight of the polisher do the work. I tried taking some pics but they didn't come out. These look like shallow little moon craters on the clear coat. Like water spots etched in. Nothing you can feel.
fubar
New member
- Nov 11, 2009
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I would not use glaze after u just compound, also u should do a test spot first of ur process before doing the whole car.
check this video out to learn how each process works.:xyxthumbs:
Pinnacle wax how to dvd, auto detailing DVD, how to car wash dvd,
check this video out to learn how each process works.:xyxthumbs:
Pinnacle wax how to dvd, auto detailing DVD, how to car wash dvd,
christian900se
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- Apr 22, 2008
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I would suggest adding some pressure to the PC while working the polish since you can gain more cut by working with some weight placed on the buffere for the first few passes. Then you lighten up for the remaining passes and let the polish break down completely.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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That's correct.
That's probably longer than most but if you're not pushing real hard it makes sense as the product will last longer and you won't be getting any results so might as well keep buffing.
That technique information is pretty common, it always sounds good but in reality, you need to engage the abrasives with the paint and force them to take little bites out of the paint and skimming over the top won't work as fast as pushing down with some pressure.
Try pushing down with about 15 pounds of pressure and move the polisher real slowly.
This is a re-write of the original article I wrote back in 2007 and it's probably one of the most detailed articles on the topic I've ever written if you can wade through it.
Tips and Techniques for using the PC 7424XP Dual Action Polisher to remove Below Surface Defects
There's an art to capturing swirls, I have a pretty good thread on MOL on this and here's the jist of it,
If you can, try to retake the photo and put a little piece of tape, or clay or even a quarter on the panel you're trying to photograph and this will give your camera something on the surface to focus on which will usually enable our camera to also focus on the paint surface which is your goal.
Sounds like Type II Water Spots, so yes, you'll have to remove a little paint. This can be a hard defect to remove, especially if your car's paint is hard and they're all over the place.
What it means to remove swirls, scratches and water spots out of automotive clear coats
The important thing is to do you best to keep it from happening again, you can't stop things like the rain but you can avoid parking next to water sprinklers that go off everyday.
- Thread starter
- #7
Great info. Thanks so much. I am new to this and actually just split the hood up into 2 halves. I probably should take on smaller sections. I just ordered the 4 inch CCS pad kit which I might use So 2 questions remain-
1. Should I continue with the orange CCS pad with more pressure or should I go with the yellow?
2. Someone mentioned I shouldn't follow with the Meguiar's Speed Glaze (which I thought was similar to 205 on the abrasive chart and ok to finish before waxing). What should I follow with? Thanks!
1. Should I continue with the orange CCS pad with more pressure or should I go with the yellow?
2. Someone mentioned I shouldn't follow with the Meguiar's Speed Glaze (which I thought was similar to 205 on the abrasive chart and ok to finish before waxing). What should I follow with? Thanks!