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bravozulu

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I'm a newbie here. I've got a Festool RO 150. That can switch from Rotary to Random Orbital modes. New to the forum, and it's been 40 years since I last painted (lacquer) some antique cars. So the technology, terminology and products are all new to me. Here's my questions:
a) what do you guy mean by DA?

b) I plan to polish my newly painted Toyota. Since the paint job flowed out well, I'm thinking of starting out with Griot's #4, a swirl remover. If I'm using my Festool in Random Orbit mode, would the Lake Country Constant pressure pads be a good idea?

c) When, if ever does a guy switch over to microfiber pads on a machine?

d)when is a lambs wool pad used?
 
I would suggest watching the videos on AG and You Tube.

Autogeek As Seen On TV
autogeek's Channel - YouTube

Watching several of the videos will help a bunch. DA stands for Dual Action.

I would highly recommend using the following kit:
The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover Kit is the total solution to swirled, hazy paint. If you like the slick, glossy look of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint

It has everything you need to easily polish and seal your paint. Wolfgang, Pinnacle, XMT, DP all have super high quality products that are easy to use.
 
a) DA = RO
b) I like constant pressure pads.
c) MF pads as in Megs or Optimum's? These are for heavier correction than foam (at least the cutting pads).
d) Heavy rotary correction
 
Are you sure you want to use Machine Polish #4? Here's a quote from Griot's website: "Use ultra-fine Machine Polish 4 when you have nearly flawless paint and only have light swirls and toweling marks. (Like new cars that are delivered from the dealership.) It will eliminate those micro-fine toweling marks and swirls, especially in dark paints". It's an extremely mild polish. Griot's usually recommends starting with Machine Polish #3.
 
Thanks for the input. Here's what I'm after. The paint will be cured in another 60 days. The shop used polyurethane white. The original color was also white. The paint flowed well. No orange peel at all. No clear coat on top.

The finish is shiny. But I want to bring out a bit more luster. When parked sided by side with a new white Mercedes, the German car had that touch of depth. A creamy rich depth. I spoke with the guys at Griot's and the suggested their #4 polish followed by sealing.

Back in the '70s when I did this kind of work, the main products around were 3M, and they offered only a Heavy, Medium and Fine polish. I sometimes used McGuire's Mirror Glaze. But I was working on lacquer finishes, which are extra forgiving. I've got to study up on these German products to get familiar.
 
bravozulu said:
Thanks for the input. Here's what I'm after. The paint will be cured in another 60 days. The shop used polyurethane white. The original color was also white. The paint flowed well. No orange peel at all. No clear coat on top.

The finish is shiny. But I want to bring out a bit more luster. When parked sided by side with a new white Mercedes, the German car had that touch of depth. A creamy rich depth. I spoke with the guys at Griot's and the suggested their #4 polish followed by sealing.

Back in the '70s when I did this kind of work, the main products around were 3M, and they offered only a Heavy, Medium and Fine polish. I sometimes used McGuire's Mirror Glaze. But I was working on lacquer finishes, which are extra forgiving. I've got to study up on these German products to get familiar.
Click to expand...

Sounds like #4 will do the job since it's new paint.
 
The Griot's #4 polish arrived. Now, after reading some of the threads here on this forum I want decided on using Lake Country pads on my Festool sander.

It isn't clear on the Autogeeks website which Lake Country pads I need. I think I'd prefer the Constant Pressure type. But, which color would suit my purpose — namely, enhancing new paint with no orange peel. ?

Oh, and after reading the polls on Shampoo, I've chosen the Pinnacle XMT. We've got hard water in this region.
 
LC pads

Yellow - heavy compunding
Orange - light to medium compounding
White - Polishing
Gray - Finishing
REd or Blue - Waxes sealants.

Experiment with pad and compound/polish combos. For example Megs 105 will behave differently on yellow vs orange vs white pads. Most say start with the lightest combo possible on a test spot and work your way more aggressive.

I use LC CCS pads for foam.

I love Megs MF pads/polishes. They are primarily for factory clear coat. Some have had good results with nonfactory clear. Not sure aobut single stage paint.

Griots #4 is really mild.

I would not seal that paint until it is cured.
 
Thanks 5.4. I'm ordering the Lake Country pads today. Along with some DP Shampoo for my foam gun.

The paint job is 2/3 of the way through a 90 wait period before I polish in order to cure. In the 70s when I painted cars with lacquer, you could comfortably do repair on the paint 1 hour after spraying. The first cars being mfg. in Detroit were all painted with lacquer. My dad visited the Ford plant in the late 1920s and saw them applying paint with paint brushes on the assembly line.

Lacquer was that forgiving. Thanks for your tips. I'm sure you earned your knowledge the hard way. Through work!!!
 
bravozulu said:
Thanks 5.4. I'm ordering the Lake Country pads today. Along with some DP Shampoo for my foam gun.

The paint job is 2/3 of the way through a 90 wait period before I polish in order to cure. In the 70s when I painted cars with lacquer, you could comfortably do repair on the paint 1 hour after spraying. The first cars being mfg. in Detroit were all painted with lacquer. My dad visited the Ford plant in the late 1920s and saw them applying paint with paint brushes on the assembly line.

Lacquer was that forgiving. Thanks for your tips. I'm sure you earned your knowledge the hard way. Through work!!!
Click to expand...
I believe you can polish the paint now. I just wouldnt wax or seal it until it has finished curing.

I have learned from experience and from reading on this site. There are a lot of people with far more knowledge and experience than I. Stick around. IT is a good place to learn and meet nice people.
 
bravozulu said:
I'm a newbie here. I've got a Festool RO 150. That can switch from Rotary to Random Orbital modes. New to the forum, and it's been 40 years since I last painted (lacquer) some antique cars. So the technology, terminology and products are all new to me. Here's my questions:
a) what do you guy mean by DA?

b) I plan to polish my newly painted Toyota. Since the paint job flowed out well, I'm thinking of starting out with Griot's #4, a swirl remover. If I'm using my Festool in Random Orbit mode, would the Lake Country Constant pressure pads be a good idea?

c) When, if ever does a guy switch over to microfiber pads on a machine?

d)when is a lambs wool pad used?
Click to expand...


what size pads should be used with the Festool RO 150? - 6.5"?

thanks
 
The 150 in the model name of the Festool stands for 150mm. That equals 6". Most pads are slightly oversized. I've got some Cobra pads that are 6.5". It's not critical.

In most buffing and polishing procedures you want to watch out to not use the edge because that is a quick way to burn through the paint or generate too much heat.
 
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