Pads for Flex questions...

megacabcummins

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I am planning on buying this kit in the next couple weeks, but I have no idea what pads to get. I will mostly be detailing my truck and the paint is in pretty decent shape (will be much better once I am done with the Dr Color Chip) so I was thinking of going with the orange/gray/red pads? Should I start with something else? Thanks for any input :buffing:
 
The Flex has enough power that it will rotate and oscillate any pad you place on the backing plate.

So the choice comes down to personal preference.

Open Cell foam will last longer, that would mean getting either 6.5" CCS or Flat Pads.

Closed Cell foam offers less tensile strength and will wear faster but many love how they perform.


The safe choice would be get one of the open cell varieties. Open cell also washed and dries better and faster than closed cell.

As for your actual pad choices, there is a great variety of levels of aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness in the CCS line as there's only 4 options in the flat pad selection.

Here's the link to our Lake Country Buffing Pad page where you can find all your pad options for the Flex 3401 including the new Hybrid and the PFW and BFW-Hybrid pads.


Lake Country Buffing Pads



:)
 
One thing I did that took a lot of time when I wrote my how-to book was I included a LOT of detail, for example, I went into detail on buffing pads...

Page56ofhowtobook.jpg



Paperback




:xyxthumbs:
 
The Flex has enough power that it will rotate and oscillate any pad you place on the backing plate.

So the choice comes down to personal preference.

Open Cell foam will last longer, that would mean getting either 6.5" CCS or Flat Pads.

Closed Cell foam offers less tensile strength and will wear faster but many love how they perform.


The safe choice would be get one of the open cell varieties. Open cell also washed and dries better and faster than closed cell.

As for your actual pad choices, there is a great variety of levels of aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness in the CCS line as there's only 4 options in the flat pad selection.

Here's the link to our Lake Country Buffing Pad page where you can find all your pad options for the Flex 3401 including the new Hybrid and the PFW and BFW-Hybrid pads.


Lake Country Buffing Pads



:)

Mike,

This is a bit confusing.

I got a set of hybrid pads after reading that they are probably a better (best?) option for the 3401. And that they were significantly better than the CCS pads for the 3401.

From your post above, it looks like you're recommending the CCS pads. Also, you're recommending open cell pads, while the hybrid pads appear to be closed cell.

What gives?

Dan.
 
Before you determine what type of pads you will need, consider diagnosing the state of your paint. Wash a panel, clay it, and see what it really looks like. If you have slight swirls or lines, then you can begin less aggressive in your pad selection with a good polish. Now in my opinion, there are two thought processes when it comes to pads. 1st. use a heavy compound/polish with a more generic pad.. IE white(light cut). This allows the product to do most of the work. 2nd. Use a lighter quaility compound/polish and change the level of pad cutting.(I like this method ) Determine your school of thought and stick with it. Remember that starting less aggressive means you can always do more section passes or heavier product if the problem area still exists. Starting heavy may induce more problems than you bargined for.
 
From your post above, it looks like you're recommending the CCS pads. Also, you're recommending open cell pads, while the hybrid pads appear to be closed cell.

What gives?

Dan.


My recommendation stated it was personal preference and it was targeted at a "new" machine user only working on their personal vehicles.

I firmly believe the type of foam you use is the least important factor when it comes to end-results as long as you,

  • Use the right tool for the job
  • Use good quality products
  • Use the right technique


And that's because the quality of ALL foam pads now days is so high.


How's that?


:)
 
Forgot to tell you that I use Lake country CCS normally. I've just migrated to the LC Hybrids and they are freaking awesome. But, I detail for a living and these pads allow me to cut faster clean up easier.
 
Well when I clayed it the first time I thought the paint was "ok" (it is a truck afterall), there were swirls and quite a few light scratches. Some of that was hidden by the Z-5, but I am pretty sure they will show right back up once I strip it back down to bare paint. I have to do the color chip first, my mud tires stick out quite a ways and they ding the heck out of the paint, so all that has to get fixed. So I really wasn't sure where to start as far as the pads, but going less aggressive makes sense.
 
Oh and Mike I am buying your e-book when I get home tonight, that way I can use if for reference out in the garage and still hit the forum if I need to :)

Driver that helps a bunch....

Oh and I don't know if it matters but this time around the truck is getting the dodo treatment, or Z-2/Z-5 with dodo over the top.
 
So I really wasn't sure where to start as far as the pads, but going less aggressive makes sense.

Well each of the different "types" of pads being discussed here come in varying levels of aggressiveness or non-aggressiveness so just be sure to get a selection from which ever type you go with.

The hybrids would also be a good choice as long as you're using good quality chemicals. When you go to wash them, use your hands to squish the foam to force flush them to get cleaning water into them to flush any residue out of them.

Here's a tip for extracting water and helping to dry any pad after washing....

How to dry a foam pad after hand washing

After washing your foam buffing pads by hand the question often comes up,

How do I dry my foam pads?

Here's one way to dry your foam pads, please feel encouraged to find a way that works best for you.

Using a clean, dry cotton terry cloth towel or clean, dry microfiber waffle weave towel or any clean microfiber towel, roll your washed and rinsed pad up inside the towel.

WringOutWater01.jpg


WringOutWater02.jpg



Press the towel into the foam as you're folding the pad into the towel.
WringOutWater03.jpg


WringOutWater04.jpg


WringOutWater05.jpg



Then squeeze, squish and wring the towel which will force any excess water out of the foam and into the towel.
WringOutWater06.jpg


WringOutWater07.jpg




Afterwards, place your foam buffing pads upside down some place where they will stay clean where air can circulate around them and moisture can evaporate out of them.
WringOutWater08.jpg




Then set some place upside down to finish drying via evaporation.


Not a perfect method but it works...





:xyxthumbs:
 
One thing I did that took a lot of time when I wrote my how-to book was I included a LOT of detail, for example, I went into detail on buffing pads...Paperback

You know I had an order all set over the weekend hoping to catch a free shipping block at $95..but when the free shipping came up it was at $125...so I was scrambling to find another $20 (I had something else for 10)...and I missed the boat! Should have bought your book. Oh well, next time!
 
I got some Smart Pads when I bought my Flex polisher. Are Smart decent pads?

Also, when my pads are needing to be cleaned I typically just rinse them under hot water and wring them through the towel drier. Then I go back to buffing. Is a damp/semi-wet pad okay to buff with?
 
I'm going to bring this back to life because I'm still confused no matter how much I read on the forum.. pardon the questions and thanks in advance.

My car is brand new - what pads are suggested for a brand new car with no defects?

my wifes car isn't so new and has some visible scratches. a few which I can feel if I rub my finger nail over. her car may give me more than I can bargain since I'm new to using a flex. Worst case I would be down for simply trying to remove the swirls and deal with scratches later. I'm not sure how to attack a deep scratch..

I clayed and sealed my car when I first bought it.

What products should I be buying to use with the flex?

DO I need more than a sealant?

am I buying compounds, finishes, polishes, swirl removers?

I'm not clear if a polish is the same as a sealant and if I even need a compound if there is no visible damage?

I simply want to protect the pant on my new car and make it shine. My wifes car will need a tad more love than that.

When you say one pad per panel, I assume that means one for the hood, front door, back door, etc?

how often can you reuse pads? how do you know when they are no longer good? I assume I need something special to clean them with.

Below are some of the products I have which I apply by hand (not all at once, I just got greedy with some sales lol). Not sure if they can be used with a flex or not..

Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protec -
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Metal Sealant -
BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal Paint Sealant
BLACKFIRE Midnight Sun Instant Detailer
Optimum Metal Polish
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish
Optimum Instant Detailer
Optimum Opti-Seal (I'm sure this is hand only)
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

waiting for the new gtech products to arrive.

I'm thinking of buying:
Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound
Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish

I heard those were good for minor scratches..

I'm assuming anything which is a spray is applied by hand.


thanks and thanks..
 
I am loving the tangerine hydros but I have not used the LC hybrids. Mark, I'm sure you've used both, which do you prefer this week? lol
 
I am loving the tangerine hydros but I have not used the LC hybrids. Mark, I'm sure you've used both, which do you prefer this week? lol
LOL! I prefer the hybrid pads, hands down. Go with the 5". The durability of the HT cyan pad horrible.
 
LOL! I prefer the hybrid pads, hands down. Go with the 5". The durability of the HT cyan pad horrible.

I haven't had durability problems with the ht tangerine pad but yes the cyan is rediculous. which hybrid pads are closest to the tangerine/cyan?
 
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