paint coating hype

Just to chime in, I have a great level of distrust when it comes to product durability claims. I have read about gauging the presence of waxes/sealants/coatings and I think there is an element of some brands using the 'beading doesn't indicate protection' to bluff users into thinking that a sub-par product is in fact still there and protecting when it has long since left the vehicle.

From my perspective, all of my products can be gauged by how the water behaves with them. If it beads, there is product there. If water sticks to it and washing any dirt off fails to bring the beading back, the product has gone. I challenge one of those claiming that their sealed/coated panel, which has ceased beading but is (apparently) still protecting, to prove it or to even give a scientific explanation. I have never seen anything beyond marketing speak when it comes to this.
 
Haven't the ease and convenience of rinseless washes, spray waxes, WOWA sealants and ultra-modern coatings ended the durability issue? I mean, how could any self-respecting autogeek hold out more than a week or two before applying what they have, or trying new stuff?

The last part of the post is all me and I'm trying to keep myself from adding "sacrificial barriers" ontop of the DPPC I applied well over a month ago, although I've done numerous wipedowns w/ my QD made of TW rinseless and KSG and 3x's Meg's USW. I know the Meg's USW is an LSP technically but not a traditionally applied LSP. I do plan on "refreshening" the DPPC in the spring by doing:

-Speedy Prep towel wipedown
-DP paint prep
-2x's DPPC (to ensure total coverage

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
I've used all the other coatings AG carries and a few AG doesn't carry, (you guys would be surprised at how many companies send me samples to test out).

And just for the record, the other coatings we carry work GREAT! And I've recommend these to countless people over the years as well as all the other outstanding brands AG carries.

Here's just a few of the cars that I've personally used other coatings on as well as Detailer's Paint Coating and Black Label Coatings and I think the results speak for themselves.

PLUS in all my write-ups I thoroughly document three things to try to help others follow the same path to success.

  • The before pictures showing the true condition of the paint.
  • The process pictures showing all the pads, products and tools used.
  • The beauty shots showing the end results.
Been doing this on forums since forums were invented.

Please feel encouraged to click on the links and read the entire write-ups which thoroughly document everything.


GTechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer

Video & Pictures - GTechniq Makeover - 2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion tC 7.0

YellowScion16.jpg



GTechniq EXO

Video & Pictures: 1965 Fastback Mustang - GTechniq EXO Show Car Makeover!

65Stang031.jpg



Optimum Opti-Coat II

1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!

CanAmCorvette067.jpg



CQuartz

1994 Porsche 964 Turbo 3.6 - Modeled by Janna and Amy

94PorscheCTW45.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

This 1932 Ford has brand new SINGLE STAGE PAINT and the write-up includes,
  • The before pictures showing the true condition of the paint.
  • The process pictures showing all the pads, products and tools used.
  • The beauty shots showing the end results.


Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint

1932_Ford_Phaeton_007.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

Cleaned & Coated in 3 Hours - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Jeep_Grand_Cherokee_017.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

1965 Mustang GT Convertible - Detailer's Paint Coating

1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_012.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

Detailer’s Review: Detailer’s Paint Coating & Detailer’s Coating Prep Polish

Detailers_Paint_Coating_011.jpg




Black Label Diamond Paint Coating & Glass Coating & Wheel Coating

Ready for the Mud!

Rupes_Coating_Monster_Truck_038.jpg



Rupes_Coating_Monster_Truck_042.jpg




Black Label Diamond Surface Coating

2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures

2006_SLK_350_086.jpg


2006_SLK_350_090.jpg





Black Label Diamond Paint Coating

Pictures: 2013 Dodge Charger - Black Label Diamond Paint Coating- New Rupes Polishers - Pictures & Video


Rupes_Duetto_039.jpg



Rupes_Duetto_033.jpg




Note this car was coated with a beta version of Black Label Diamond Paint Coating before the formula was finalized for production and before it was public...

Black Label Diamond Paint Coating

Lady in Red - 1986 Porsche - 4-Step Process

1986_Porsche_Mike_Phillips_046.jpg




1986_Porsche_Mike_Phillips_043.jpg






Where the rubber meets the road...
Here's the deal though... as great as the results look in all these detailing projects we did here at Autogeek, and as beautiful as the final results look... the end-results are still dependent upon doing the proper prep work.

Then, after doing the proper prep work you really can create clear, glassy looking paint and the coatings themselves do last longer than traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants.

After applying the coating you still must carefully wash your car and maintain the finish if you want to maintain the results. Just because you apply any coating to your car's paint this does not automatically give you the freedom to start running your car through a automatic car wash or even wash it yourself haphazardly as you will diminish the appearance.



On a personal note...
While I did plan on keeping our MB coated I didn't plan on using or continue using a coating on my personal truck because too often I use it for a rolling test panel.

After coating it however and then driving the truck around now for a week, I love the results and while I will continue to use my truck to test products for most of the panels I'm going to continue to use the Black Label line of coatings. Especially because of what's in the works...


Don't now if my posts will help you to form your own opinion about coatings and any and all hype surrounding them but they are the real deal as far as a new way to wax your car without using a traditional "Car Wax" or a traditional "Paint Sealant".

One thing for sure... sooner or later everyone finds something they like...


Car wax has changed...


:xyxthumbs:

So what's the difference between the paint coating and the surface coating? Feed back please. :buffing:
 
The paint coating is specifically for paint.

The surface coating can be applied to anything hard surface.


:)

Hi Mike, I ordered the kit this weekend to try, but it did not include the surface coating(missed the Cyber buster on it) Great sale btw, thanks AG!

Could you tell me what the benefit is with using the coating vs the surface coating?
I assume there is one or why make two products? I could not find a definitive answer...
 
Hi Mike, I ordered the kit this weekend to try, but it did not include the surface coating(missed the Cyber buster on it) Great sale btw, thanks AG!

Could you tell me what the benefit is with using the coating vs the surface coating?
I assume there is one or why make two products? I could not find a definitive answer...

The paint coating is specific to paint. The surface coating is more general and can be used on any hard surface, (paint, plastic, glass, chrome, wheels, etc.), plus you get 4 more ounce in the bottle.

To date I have the paint coating on my truck and the surface coating on Stacy's SLK.

After going through an incredibly rainy weekend both vehicles are beading water very well and both still have a real slick feel to them.

I have more car projects coming up but no time...


:)
 
Just to chime in, I have a great level of distrust when it comes to product durability claims. I have read about gauging the presence of waxes/sealants/coatings and I think there is an element of some brands using the 'beading doesn't indicate protection' to bluff users into thinking that a sub-par product is in fact still there and protecting when it has long since left the vehicle.

From my perspective, all of my products can be gauged by how the water behaves with them. If it beads, there is product there. If water sticks to it and washing any dirt off fails to bring the beading back, the product has gone. I challenge one of those claiming that their sealed/coated panel, which has ceased beading but is (apparently) still protecting, to prove it or to even give a scientific explanation. I have never seen anything beyond marketing speak when it comes to this.

I tend to agree, which is mainly whats holding me back from trying a coating. I just cant tell if/when it stops protecting.
 
I tend to agree, which is mainly whats holding me back from trying a coating. I just cant tell if/when it stops protecting.

So what product(s) are you currently using, just curious?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Three dumb questions from me;

1) Why does the paint coating exist if the surface coating also works for paint? Or; is it just a case of the paint coating being a superior 'paint coating' but the surface coating being a better value than the individual coatings?

2) Could dirt and contamination affect beading even with a nice coat of wax under the gunk? In other words; couldn't beading be an unreliable 'test', where unprotected clean paint could bead well and well protected dirty paint wouldn't bead?

3) So we have established that coatings last longer- but do they actually protect better? For someone who is in a routine of applying sealants frequently (every few months) and topping with carnauba monthly, would I actually get BETTER protection with a coating, or would it just be longer lasting?
 
Griot's paste? Are you talking about their newer nuba that comes in the metal tin? As far as using BFWD in the winter, I take it you don't live where it snows?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
The paint coating is specific to paint. The surface coating is more general and can be used on any hard surface, (paint, plastic, glass, chrome, wheels, etc.), plus you get 4 more ounce in the bottle.

To date I have the paint coating on my truck and the surface coating on Stacy's SLK.

After going through an incredibly rainy weekend both vehicles are beading water very well and both still have a real slick feel to them.

I have more car projects coming up but no time...


:)

I applied the Surface coating to the clear bra on my Aston. I could "feel" the difference after. I'll keep you all posted on looks and durability.
 
I applied the Surface coating to the clear bra on my Aston. I could "feel" the difference after.
I'll keep you all posted on looks and durability.
Given the specific location of a clear bra:

What course of action must be undertaken to have (once again) complete clear bra Surface Coating-coverage if, perchance:
The clear bra receives a good enough whap from some road debris that a portion of the Surface Coating is, unfortunately, displaced?


Just curious.

Bob
 
Just to chime in, I have a great level of distrust when it comes to product durability claims. I have read about gauging the presence of waxes/sealants/coatings and I think there is an element of some brands using the 'beading doesn't indicate protection' to bluff users into thinking that a sub-par product is in fact still there and protecting when it has long since left the vehicle.

From my perspective, all of my products can be gauged by how the water behaves with them. If it beads, there is product there. If water sticks to it and washing any dirt off fails to bring the beading back, the product has gone. I challenge one of those claiming that their sealed/coated panel, which has ceased beading but is (apparently) still protecting, to prove it or to even give a scientific explanation. I have never seen anything beyond marketing speak when it comes to this.


While I generally agree with what you're saying, contamination could possible kill beading too.

I had 3 coatings on one of my test panels all fail to bead after being left outside untouched for 8 months. These are coatings which have all held up past the 2 year mark on vehicles, some of which I've applied them too. Even after a wash with APC and strong mix of soap, decon with IronX, Tarminator, claying, and a good rinse with water, neither of them beaded water like they should. One coating did sheet diferently, but they did not act the way they should...

I've come to two conclusions:
1. There is some sort of contamination still on the paint.
2. Possible applicaton issues, though unlikely since it was done same as always but in a more controlled manner.


The test pans were left outside near some evergreen trees and there appeared to be a fine over spray like film is visible on the panels, yet the paint feels smooth. I had planned to view them under magnification but ended up using them for other testing. :rolleyes:


Anyway, just throwing out a possible exception to the bold in your post. ;)

Rasky
 
As far as beading and coatings go... Listen to Larry's recent podcast with the Meg's guy. It will all be explained.
 
I agree, that podcast was very informative about coatings and shared my actual thoughts about the idea of water beading itself as a measure of protection or durability. Very cool stuff :props:
 
Can someone give the group a cliff note version of this podcast?

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Three dumb questions from me;

1) Why does the paint coating exist if the surface coating also works for paint? Or; is it just a case of the paint coating being a superior 'paint coating' but the surface coating being a better value than the individual coatings?

From my understanding of the Surface Coating, it's different in that it can be used on non-paint surfaces while the Paint Coating is specific to paint.



2) Could dirt and contamination affect beading even with a nice coat of wax under the gunk? In other words; couldn't beading be an unreliable 'test', where unprotected clean paint could bead well and well protected dirty paint wouldn't bead?

I think "yes" to your question. Lots of water beading discussions and most of them have good info about what effects the water beading.


3) So we have established that coatings last longer- but do they actually protect better? For someone who is in a routine of applying sealants frequently (every few months) and topping with carnauba monthly, would I actually get BETTER protection with a coating, or would it just be longer lasting?

Again, from my understanding of coatings, better protection and longer lasting.

Time will tell how well any coating holds up against what I think are the worst types of attack to car paint.

Bird Droppings

Type II Water Spots - Caused by something corrosive in the water.

Bug Splatter or Bug Guts - I've seen plenty of examples where bug cuts have eaten away clear coat paint right down to the basecoat and further.
All three of the above are examples of some type of liquid that is corrosive enough to eat through any previously applied car wax or synthetic paint sealant and then attack the underlying paint.

What I've always typed in the past is that if the attacking liquid substance is corrosive enough to dissolve or etch modern clearcoat paint technology, (a paint that's pretty tough), then the attacking liquid substance won't have any problem getting through or getting past any previously applied car wax or synthetic paint sealant.

These three types of chemical attacks have always been a problem especially when not removed immediately after making contact with the paint. In other words, the longer these three types of liquid attacks are on the surface the great the chance the corrosive elements or substances they contain can do their damage to paint.

So in the context of your question, a better protecting product will stop or do a better job of minimizing the destruction brought by the three above paint related problems that we all want to protect our cars, trucks and other vehicles from.


:)
 
From my understanding of the Surface Coating, it's different in that it can be used on non-paint surfaces while the Paint Coating is specific to paint.





I think "yes" to your question. Lots of water beading discussions and most of them have good info about what effects the water beading.




Again, from my understanding of coatings, better protection and longer lasting.

Time will tell how well any coating holds up against what I think are the worst types of attack to car paint.

Bird Droppings

Type II Water Spots - Caused by something corrosive in the water.

Bug Splatter or Bug Guts - I've seen plenty of examples where bug cuts have eaten away clear coat paint right down to the basecoat and further.
All three of the above are examples of some type of liquid that is corrosive enough to eat through any previously applied car wax or synthetic paint sealant and then attack the underlying paint.

What I've always typed in the past is that if the attacking liquid substance is corrosive enough to dissolve or etch modern clearcoat paint technology, (a paint that's pretty tough), then the attacking liquid substance won't have any problem getting through or getting past any previously applied car wax or synthetic paint sealant.

These three types of chemical attacks have always been a problem especially when not removed immediately after making contact with the paint. In other words, the longer these three types of liquid attacks are on the surface the great the chance the corrosive elements or substances they contain can do their damage to paint.

So in the context of your question, a better protecting product will stop or do a better job of minimizing the destruction brought by the three above paint related problems that we all want to protect our cars, trucks and other vehicles from.


:)

Cool! Well that's exactly what I wanted to know. For me, it didn't seem worth it if it was just about longevity. But better protection is worth it.

Let me rephrase my diamond paint coating question;

I understand that one can be used on paint, and the other on any surface. However; why should I buy the paint coating? In other words; does the paint coating do something BETTER than the surface coating when on paint? Why on earth would anyone buy the paint, wheel, and glass coatings when they could just get the surface coating? UNLESS those individual coatings did something the 'surface coating' didn't do- what is that?
 
I believe same effects just different durations comparing surface coating to each individual coating.
 
Back
Top