Paint coating

jerber1

jerber1

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What are the pros and cons of paint coatings? (opticoat, Gtechniq, etc...)
 
Pros: long lasting protection

Cons: people constantly drooling over your car (So long as the paint is properly prepped prior to applying the coating)
 
•Cons (DIY):
1.) Initial purchase price {You want how much for those few mLs?!?! :eek:}
2.) Seemingly an unending, and always differing array of methods/processes involved in "Prep Work".
3.) Application can be nearly as involved as #2 above.
4.) "Bonding" (?)
5.) Total cure-time: Variations on recommendations abound!

•Cons (When you're hiring a Professional):
1.) You want how much to prep, and then apply a Coating to my vehicle?!?! :eek:
(Just following manufacturers' retail price suggestions :dunno:)


•I hope to get back with the "Pros of Coatings", anon.


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
•Cons (DIY):
1.) Initial purchase price {You want how much for those few mLs?!?! :eek:}
2.) Seemingly an unending, and always differing array of methods/processes involved in "Prep Work".
3.) Application can be nearly as involved as #2 above.
4.) "Bonding" (?)
5.) Total cure-time: Variations on recommendations abound!

•Cons (When you're hiring a Professional):
1.) You want how much to prep, and then apply a Coating to my vehicle?!?! :eek:
(Just following manufacturers' retail price suggestions :dunno:)


•I hope to get back with the "Pros of Coatings", anon.


Bob
Click to expand...

Wow, Bob. Have you had bad luck with coatings?
 
FUNX725 said:
If you don't mind...I'd rather refocus and ask:
Were there any: "wants-of-veracity"...to what I listed?

Bob
Click to expand...

Well sure, there is a learning curve to proper application of a coating but nothing so in-depth that I would shy away a DIY'er.


FUNX725 said:
•Cons (DIY):
1.) Initial purchase price {You want how much for those few mLs?!?! :eek:}
2.) Seemingly an unending, and always differing array of methods/processes involved in "Prep Work".
3.) Application can be nearly as involved as #2 above.
4.) "Bonding" (?)
5.) Total cure-time: Variations on recommendations abound!

•Cons (When you're hiring a Professional):
1.) You want how much to prep, and then apply a Coating to my vehicle?!?! :eek:
(Just following manufacturers' retail price suggestions :dunno:)


•I hope to get back with the "Pros of Coatings", anon.


Bob
Click to expand...

1.) Although the initial cost of a coating may seem pricey, the break down really isn't as bad as one would think. For example, a 50ML bottle of CQUK at $54.94 (anyone could easily spend the minimum to attain wholesale pricing) can coat as many as 4-6 vehicles which translates to $13.75-$9.15 per vehicle. I did not factor the MS towels because the coating kit includes the small ones and the larger buffing towels can easily be laundered and reused if you know what your doing.

2.) The amount of prep work needed to apply a coating is not as involved as some make it out to be. The initial prep for a coating is no different than the prep one should do before applying wax or sealant. Wash, iron-x, clay, and polish if you want a nice clear base. The only difference there would be a quick wipe down with eraser which translates to about $2-$3 of product per vehicle.

3.) Application is a breeze if prep work has been done properly and once one realizes there is no need to overthink it. Just apply sparingly, let it flash, and then lightly buff any excess. Dark colored vehicles may exhibit some hazing but it's no different than what some waxes or sealants leave behind and only requires a bit more light buffing to remove.

4.) Bonding is never an issue if the prep is done properly.

5.) Cure time is really the only thing that needs to be addressed differently when scheduling a vehicle for a coating but most clients do not have a problem leaving their vehicle overnight to ensure the long term bond of the coating. (Most all sealants recommend a minimum cure time before exposure to moisture as well.) For clients that need their vehicle back sooner, a quick coat of reload can be applied if rain is in the forecast. I don't often have the need to apply the reload but I keep it in stock just in case.

In all honesty there really are only a couple of benefits of a coating over a wax or sealant. Longevity and slight scratch resistance are really to two most notable but importantly so.
 
I only did 1 coat of a popular paint coating. I honestly felt that I got longer protection and more gloss out of colinite 845 unfortunately...

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
Look how much Autogeek wants for Blackfire wet diamond now $50! You could buy Duragloss paint coating and get many applications for the same price.
 
Just02896 said:
2.) The amount of prep work needed to apply a coating is not as involved as some make it out to be. The initial prep for a coating is no different than the prep one should do before applying wax or sealant. Wash, iron-x, clay, and polish if you want a nice clear base. The only difference there would be a quick wipe down with eraser which translates to about $2-$3 of product per vehicle.
Click to expand...

This depends on the coating. Many of the more 'traditional' coatings were great at protecting but did somewhere between little and nothing for the appearance. In other words, it you surface was clean but swirled, coating it will end up with a very well protected but heavily swirled finish. In contrast, many sealants can fill adequately to make it look OK.

IMO, you can apply a sealant after the prep you describe, but you are often wasting your money doing the same with a coating - you should be doing a polish/correction prior to application.
 
Just02896 said:
Well sure, there is a learning curve to proper application of a coating
Click to expand...

The How(?!?!) someone is going to learn...
is the gist of my "Cons".
___________________________________________

Just addressing my "Con #2 (DIY) at the moment:

FUNX725 said:
•Cons (DIY):
2.) Seemingly an unending, and always differing array of methods/processes involved in "Prep Work".
Click to expand...
Here's a couple of recent examples (including yours)...(there are OH! so many, many more---Most have read/seen them):

Just02896 said:
2.) The amount of prep work needed to apply a coating is not as involved as some make it out to be. The initial prep for a coating is no different than the prep one should do before applying wax or sealant. Wash, iron-x, clay, and polish if you want a nice clear base. The only difference there would be a quick wipe down with eraser which translates to about $2-$3 of product per vehicle.
Click to expand...
coredump4 said:
If will be coating, follow the coating's instructions. For OC 2.0, you would need to remove any residual LSP (using a DA, if necessary), wash thoroughly with Dawn or APC (likely 2x), and then an IPA wipedown. You could clay first, if need be, especially if you'll be using a DA to remove the existing LSP.
At that point, the finish should be "naked," which is what's required for OC to bond. Definitely do not use a pre-wax; many of those have fillers which you definitely don't want on the vehicle.
Click to expand...
The above could almost throw me for a loss.
Now: If someone was new to the Coatings...
Which one to choose?

What's with the Coatings' manufacturers: "HOW-TOs"?
Are they to be followed/discarded?
Who actually does know: what's best!
___________________________________________

BTW:
I noticed you didn't address my:
"Con when hiring a Professional".
-IMO...Now's just a good time as ever. :)

Note:
I do want to address the other "#s":
May be a little while, though.

Bob
 
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