Paint reading gauge and digital optical microscope??

^ those ebay gauges are really tempting!!

dunno about the quality but I saw them being used in the pics where rotary use was being demonstrated! (so if detailers use them, it must be reliable?) :confused:

The one you linked me in pm that one goes for 650+ lol
 
Why isn't there much about paint gauge in this forums? After reading a few things online, I'm a little worried if I'm working on an older car with very thin paint and can mess up costing 500+ to fix it.

So say you have parts of the car that has thinner panels... do you use less pressure/less aggro pads and compound? and if its really thin just use your hand to buff it?

I AGREE a paint gauge is a MUST have to prevent burning the paint

No it isn't. Well, maybe it is if you're being lazy and not paying attention to what you're doing... but it isn't a mandatory part of a detailer's arsenal. There are those out there who will sensationalize the dangers of burning through paint but in reality the percentage of people in the real world who utilize PTGs regularly is very, very small. As long as you keep in mind how much paint you're removing with a given procedure, and prescribe to the "start with the least aggressive solution" approach, you should be fine. It all comes down to common sense.

I look at a PTG as a tool that is mainly useful when you're dealing with a vehicle you have very strong reason to believe has thin paint (usually there will be other warning signs that should cause you to have suspicions), aside from that it's more of a time waster.
 
Yes I do, and I very rarely find a need to use it.

There's only so much a PTG can tell you; there is no replacing the skill of reading a finish on the fly. :props:

Well I think its good for newbs that's starting. I haven't compound/polish many cars yet so I think PTG could be useful for beginners. I always says it better safe then sorry.
 
Well I think its good for newbs that's starting. I haven't compound/polish many cars yet so I think PTG could be useful for beginners. I always says it better safe then sorry.

Honestly, if you're the type of person that needs to see a number on a screen to tell you that you aren't harming anything or removing very much paint when you follow the concept of using the least aggressive solution necessary to remove a defect, knock yourself out.

Just keep in mind that there are a lot of things you could spend that money on that would be far more beneficial to you. It's good that you're mindful of the potential for causing damage when polishing (mainly via the rotary buffer) but you do not need to be as worried/scared as you appear to be unless your plan is to work on a classic car with an original finish you want to preserve or if you're dealing with a high dollar custom paint job that requires highly aggressive correction work.
 
Honestly, if you're the type of person that needs to see a number on a screen to tell you that you aren't harming anything or removing very much paint when you follow the concept of using the least aggressive solution necessary to remove a defect, knock yourself out.

Just keep in mind that there are a lot of things you could spend that money on that would be far more beneficial to you. It's good that you're mindful of the potential for causing damage when polishing (mainly via the rotary buffer) but you do not need to be as worried/scared as you appear to be unless your plan is to work on a classic car with an original finish you want to preserve or if you're dealing with a high dollar custom paint job that requires highly aggressive correction work.


I always work with less aggressive combo first. Highline 2 is only 225 shipped not really a big dent, and its always fun playing with new toys :xyxthumbs:
 
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