Paint sealants

TundraPower said:
"Dated" meaning "in need of a technical refresh". Menzerna Power Lock, Migliore Cima Sealant, Sonax Net Shield and others seem to last longer and look better. Just my opinion :xyxthumbs:
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According to this definition, the excellent Duragloss line of sealants are "dated". They are good performers and I use 105 and 111 often, however, for best results you must add a step - laying down the bonding agent (#601) prior to the sealant. Some people avoid this step by combining the sealant and bonding agent together. By combining the two, the results are suppose to be the same as the instructions on the bottles which tell you to lay down the bonding agent first then the sealant on top. If that is true that the results are indeed the same, then why is Duragloss not using the new technology of combining the two in one bottle? Even if you mix the sealant with the bonding agent in a dispenser bottle or even on the pad itself (using four drops of sealant to one drop of bonding agent), you still are forced to buy two different products - the bonding agent and the sealant.

Combining the sealant and bonding agent at the factory can be done and is being done. For example, take a look at this product from DP for proof: Detailer's Pro Poli-coat sealant (DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer). I've used it and it is very similar to Duragloss 105 in looks, durability and ease of use BUT it has the bonding agent built in.

I guess my message to Duragloss would be that although some of your products are wonderful, don't make me buy two different things to do the same thing other manufacturers do just as well with one bottle. And if you find a way around it such as telling me to mix the two together after I buy them, then why are you making me do the mixing when the technology exists for you to do it at the factory?

So the term "dated" can be applied to many detailing products these days that although they still perform as well as any, they are lagging and not catching up to new methods of application and technology.
 
Good stuff is good stuff. I don't see them as dated. Is Souverän dated? P21S TAW? Stuff's been around forever.
 
Shortspark said:
According to this definition, the excellent Duragloss line of sealants are "dated". They are good performers and I use 105 and 111 often, however, for best results you must add a step - laying down the bonding agent (#601) prior to the sealant. Some people avoid this step by combining the sealant and bonding agent together. By combining the two, the results are suppose to be the same as the instructions on the bottles which tell you to lay down the bonding agent first then the sealant on top. If that is true that the results are indeed the same, then why is Duragloss not using the new technology of combining the two in one bottle? Even if you mix the sealant with the bonding agent in a dispenser bottle or even on the pad itself (using four drops of sealant to one drop of bonding agent), you still are forced to buy two different products - the bonding agent and the sealant.



Combining the sealant and bonding agent at the factory can be done and is being done. For example, take a look at this product from DP for proof: Detailer's Pro Poli-coat sealant (DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant, polymer paint sealant, auto paint sealant, DP Policoat paint sealant, paint sealer). I've used it and it is very similar to Duragloss 105 in looks, durability and ease of use BUT it has the bonding agent built in.



I guess my message to Duragloss would be that although some of your products are wonderful, don't make me buy two different things to do the same thing other manufacturers do just as well with one bottle. And if you find a way around it such as telling me to mix the two together after I buy them, then why are you making me do the mixing when the technology exists for you to do it at the factory?



So the term "dated" can be applied to many detailing products these days that although they still perform as well as any, they are lagging and not catching up to new methods of application and technology.
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The duragloss stuff, once mixed, is no longer as effective after two hours of being combined. I don't know for sure, but I would be that the duragloss sealants and that DP sealant are not using the same type of ingredients. And I would put up the 105/601 combo against DP anyday.
 
KillaCam said:
The duragloss stuff, once mixed, is no longer as effective after two hours of being combined. I don't know for sure, but I would be that the duragloss sealants and that DP sealant are not using the same type of ingredients. And I would put up the 105/601 combo against DP anyday.
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Oh yes, the Duragloss sealants and most of their other products are top notch (the DP sealant is also excellent). My only point was that if other manufacturers can combine the steps in one product why can't Duragloss? I agree that DP and Duragloss probably have different formulations but I still can't see why Duragloss can't find a way to combine them in one product the way DP has done.
 
KillaCam said:
The duragloss stuff, once mixed, is no longer as effective after two hours of being combined. I don't know for sure, but I would be that the duragloss sealants and that DP sealant are not using the same type of ingredients. And I would put up the 105/601 combo against DP anyday.
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Right and knowing this all people have to do is mix up what they need or apply the left over to the windows and/or wheels or apply a 2nd coat so it doesn't go to waste. I'm not sure why DG hasn't done this either, could be a cost thing and if this is the case I'm not holding it against them.

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
My thoughts:

I believe the "bonding agent" for Duragloss is primarily a chemical paint cleaner, maybe the best one made. Mixing it with the sealant gives you an AIO type product, wether people use it that way or not.

You likely could just use the Duragloss Sealant on clean naked paint and get the same results as DP sealant. Except the DG stuff is a fraction of the price.
 
My 4¢ regarding the interactions/reactions between:
Duragloss Bonding Agent #601; and Duragloss #'s 105; 111; 501.

#601:
  • DIMETHYLSILOXANE
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • PROPYL ALCOHOL
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#105:
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#111
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#501:
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

All a person needs to do is find out chemically what the role that (poly)aminosiloxanes, and polishing agents, play in their interactions/reactions with:
(poly)dimethylsiloxanes and propyl alcohol... to come to an understanding of Duragloss' modus operandi.


:)

Bob
 
Hey Bob,

What are your thoughts on WGGPS?
How well does it stack up to the ones mentioned?
Myself it's the best I ever used but surely haven't used everyone made.

FUNX725 said:
My 4¢ regarding the interactions/reactions between:
Duragloss Bonding Agent #601; and Duragloss #'s 105; 111; 501.

#601:
  • DIMETHYLSILOXANE
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • PROPYL ALCOHOL
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#105:
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#111
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA

#501:
  • POLYAMINOSILOXANE
  • POLISHING AGENTS
  • ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS
  • SOLVENT NAPHTHA
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

All a person needs to do is find out chemically what the role that (poly)aminosiloxanes, and polishing agents, play in their interactions/reactions with:
(poly)dimethylsiloxanes and propyl alcohol... to come to an understanding of Duragloss' modus operandi.


:)

Bob
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I've been using Menzerna Power lock for a couple of years. As it was said earlier, it's very easy to apply and remove and has held up very well over time on my car. There are many products available, some older some new some good and some not so much, but i am quite satisfied with my choice and will continue to use it until I am star struck by some other product but I don't see that happening for some time.
 
HateSwirls said:
Hey Bob,

What are your thoughts on WGGPS?
How well does it stack up to the ones mentioned?
Myself it's the best I ever used but surely haven't used everyone made.
Click to expand...
I have and use WGDGPS.
I have stated on many occasions that it is the best Sealant
I have ever had the pleasure of using on my vehicles.

I still stand behind those previous testimonials.

Bob
 
I want to thank everyone for the very constructive thread. It is very informative and useful info
 
Would I be better off with a product like opti coat?
 
Coopers ST said:
Would I be better off with a product like opti coat?
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You would be if you want to find a new hobby. This thread is about paint sealants and opti-coat is a different thing altogether. I have never used it but it is a permanent coating, sort of an additional clear coat layer. You do not need to wax or clay for years and all you would really have to do is wash your car and maybe use a detail spray or booster topper now and then. Basically, your detailing days are over in regards to a LSP.

I want to enjoy my hobby completely which means I want to experiment every three or four months with new waxes, new sealants and other products that allow me to rub on my paint to my heart's delight. If you don't want to mess with claying, waxing, etc, then this is the ticket. Opti-coat is a great product from what I hear but the only thing it has in common with a sealant is that it is applied to clean car paint.
 
Coopers ST said:
Would I be better off with a product like opti coat?
Click to expand...
Even without having first-hand knowledge of which
climatological area of Wyoming that you reside/work:

I'm still tempted to say: Yes!!...to one of Optimum's 'Coatings' for your vehicle(s).


:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Even without having first-hand knowledge of which
climatological area of Wyoming that you reside/work:

I'm still tempted to say: Yes!!...to one of Optimum's 'Coatings' for your vehicle(s).


:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I am in Sheridan, a couple weeks ago we were -30 for lows, yesterday almost 50, today 5. We get some snow, and rain from April till May then it is dry. Summer is very low humidity (10-20%) and temps in the upper 90 to low 100.
 
How does the Wolfgang compare to Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Sealant? The Black Label is more money, but if it only needs to be applied once a year as apposed to 2-3 times a year it really doesn't cost much more.
 
I was reading a different thread and saw a chart that had a 'order' to use. After I use the TSR, do I go directly to the glaze, or add a polish in between, or do I use a polish before the sealant, or no polish at all?
 
Coopers ST said:
I was reading a different thread and saw a chart that had a 'order' to use. After I use the TSR, do I go directly to the glaze, or add a polish in between, or do I use a polish before the sealant, or no polish at all?
Click to expand...


Wolfgang Finishing Glaze is actually a fine polish which contains abrasives. It is not a glaze as most members here call it. However it may contain certain oils that act as "fillers". I use the Wolfgang Polishes for most of my needs. I will use either Uber Compound or Total Swirl Remover followed by Finishing Glaze on all but the softest paints where WFG is all that is required. The exact products you choose and with what pads will be determined by your test spot.
 
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