Paint Still Rough After Claying & Compounding???

[FrankS]

I was working on the hood of my mother's 2000 Camry, the paint was in good condition, it just had some minor swirls and scratches. My plan was to obtain as much correction as possible and then apply Opti-Coat 2.0 to the hood and then the same thing to the other panels. Since I do this on my spare time and I don't have any time restraints with her car, I'm going to approach this one panel at a time. I usually use her car to experiment with different products. She doesn't mind and usually tells me emphatically to use the same product again next time when she sees the nice results but then I use something that looks even better and then she says the same thing :dunno:...funny!

Anyway, after the car was washed and dried I did the baggie test and it felt rough, like sandpaper. I started with a Nanoskin Fine Grade Wash Mitt and ONR as the lube and it still felt rough when I did the baggie test again. So then I used the Nanoskin Medium Grade Mitt and it still felt rough. So then I used some Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and it still felt rough. I then proceeded to compound the hood using the Rupes 15 with the Rupes Blue Foam Pad & Rupes Blue Coarse Gel Compound.

I tried the baggie test again after the compounding and it still felt rough. I thought I would give it one more try and I used the medium grade Nanoskin pad on a PC and it still felt rough afterwards. At that point I realized that it was not going to get any smoother so I continued with the process. The hood looks great after the correction and applying Opti-Coat 2.0 but not sure why the paint still felt rough after decontaminating and compounding. I'm thinking the contaminants have embedded into the paint over time. Anyone else encounter this situation?

 

[jamesboyy]

The contamination could have embedded or it could be eay phase of clear coat failure or oxidation
Though you should have a more aggressive clay bar(the red one) or used more downward pressure

 

[FrankS]

The contamination could have embedded or it could be eay phase of clear coat failure or oxidation
Though you should have a more aggressive clay bar(the red one) or used more downward pressure

The paint is in great condition overall so I don't think it's an early phase of clear coat failure. I was thinking the same thing about a more aggressive clay bar.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Do you now if the hood has ever been repainted?


Bring it to the extreme makeover next Thursday, I'd like to take a look at it.

If you feel comfortable with the idea we could hit it with some #5000 Trizact.



:dunno:

 

[FrankS]

Do you now if the hood has ever been repainted?


Bring it to the extreme makeover next Thursday, I'd like to take a look at it.

If you feel comfortable with the idea we could hit it with some #5000 Trizact.

:dunno:

I don't think it's ever been repainted, it looks like the original factory paint. Sure, I could bring it to the next makeover.

 

[allenk4]

Was your ONR properly diluted at 64:1 ?

I have tries it at detail spray strength (8:1) found that my Speed Prep Towel was too lubed and did not remove contaminants effectively.

 

[FrankS]

Was your ONR properly diluted at 64:1 ?

I have tries it at detail spray strength (8:1) found that my Speed Prep Towel was too lubed and did not remove contaminants effectively.

I put 2 ounces in a quart size bottle, which is more than recommended for clay lube. Recommended is 2 ounces per gallon. I've used that same dilution before on other vehicles and it worked good. I'll try the recommended on the other panels and see if that helps.

 

[asalesagent912]

I was working on the hood of my mother's 2000 Camry, the paint was in good condition, it just had some minor swirls and scratches. My plan was to obtain as much correction as possible and then apply Opti-Coat 2.0 to the hood and then the same thing to the other panels. Since I do this on my spare time and I don't have any time restraints with her car, I'm going to approach this one panel at a time. I usually use her car to experiment with different products. She doesn't mind and usually tells me emphatically to use the same product again next time when she sees the nice results but then I use something that looks even better and then she says the same thing :dunno:...funny!

Anyway, after the car was washed and dried I did the baggie test and it felt rough, like sandpaper. I started with a Nanoskin Fine Grade Wash Mitt and ONR as the lube and it still felt rough when I did the baggie test again. So then I used the Nanoskin Medium Grade Mitt and it still felt rough. So then I used some Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay and it still felt rough. I then proceeded to compound the hood using the Rupes 15 with the Rupes Blue Foam Pad & Rupes Blue Coarse Gel Compound.

I tried the baggie test again after the compounding and it still felt rough. I thought I would give it one more try and I used the medium grade Nanoskin pad on a PC and it still felt rough afterwards. At that point I realized that it was not going to get any smoother so I continued with the process. The hood looks great after the correction and applying Opti-Coat 2.0 but not sure why the paint still felt rough after decontaminating and compounding. I'm thinking the contaminants have embedded into the paint over time. Anyone else encounter this situation?

First of all i want to say i am no pro. but have worked on alot off cars. just for shits and giggles i tried the baggie test a few weeks ago and couldnt believe what i felt. I tried it on a few cars that i used nanoskin and even polished.still felt grit with the baggie. I wouldnt put much thought into it. As long as it feels good with the hand and looks good i wouldnt drive myself nuts over that test. Thats just my opinion

 

[FrankS]

First of all i want to say i am no pro. but have worked on alot off cars. just for shits and giggles i tried the baggie test a few weeks ago and couldnt believe what i felt. I tried it on a few cars that i used nanoskin and even polished.still felt grit with the baggie. I wouldnt put much thought into it. As long as it feels good with the hand and looks good i wouldnt drive myself nuts over that test. Thats just my opinion

I'm very satisfied with the way the hood came out, it looks great and I'll leave it the way it is. In fact my mom went by Costco today and had the air in her tires checked and the guy said that it looked like a mirror. I was just curious as to why it still felt rough since normally when I clay or use the Nanoskins it usually comes out very smooth.

 

[jmsc]

Subscribing...

 

[trekkeruss]

It probably wouldn't make a difference, but I'm surprised you didn't use Iron-X before claying.

 

[FrankS]

It probably wouldn't make a difference, but I'm surprised you didn't use Iron-X before claying.

I didn't think about Iron-X until after I applied the coating :doh:. It slipped my mind, probably because I was more focused on removing the swirls and scratches. You're right though, I should have used it but I don't think that would have helped the roughness issue.

 

[swanicyouth]

I would have used IronX (or similar) first as suggested. That stuff really can get out iron particles embedded in your paint clay can't. I've actually seen it remove visible iron particles.

The other thing is, instead of checking the car with a baggy when your done - check as you go along. Contaminates will often be aggregated in certain areas of a vehicle. Other areas may be fine. So, if your checking as you go along you know where to focus on and where not to move forward from until it's clean.

Another possibility that comes to mind is difficult to remove sap or tar (you'd likely see tar). Maybe this car is parked under a tree sometimes? Sometimes sap is like glue and very hard to remove. A solvent based bug and tar remover like obliTARate by AutoFinesse should help there.

Clay can remove a lot - but it can't always remove everything.

 

[trekkeruss]

I would have used IronX (or similar) first as suggested. That stuff really can get out iron particles embedded in your paint clay can't. I've actually seen it remove visible iron particles.

That's kinda what I was thinking; that there are embedded iron particles that are being felt.

The other thing is, instead of checking the car with a baggy when your done - check as you go along. Contaminates will often be aggregated in certain areas of a vehicle. Other areas may be fine. So, if your checking as you go along you know where to focus on and where not to move forward from until it's clean.

That's a great tip; I'm filing that one away in my head.

Another possibility that comes to mind is difficult to remove sap or tar (you'd likely see tar). Maybe this car is parked under a tree sometimes? Sometimes sap is like glue and very hard to remove. A solvent based bug and tar remover like obliTARate by AutoFinesse should help there.

Maybe instead of Iron-X, T.R.I.X.?

 

[FrankS]

I would have used IronX (or similar) first as suggested. That stuff really can get out iron particles embedded in your paint clay can't. I've actually seen it remove visible iron particles.

I'll try that on the other panels and see if that helps.

The other thing is, instead of checking the car with a baggy when your done - check as you go along. Contaminates will often be aggregated in certain areas of a vehicle. Other areas may be fine. So, if your checking as you go along you know where to focus on and where not to move forward from until it's clean.

True, I noticed that there were some areas that were not that bad and others that were worse even though I tried to cover each section of the hood exactly the same.

Another possibility that comes to mind is difficult to remove sap or tar (you'd likely see tar). Maybe this car is parked under a tree sometimes? Sometimes sap is like glue and very hard to remove. A solvent based bug and tar remover like obliTARate by AutoFinesse should help there.

Possibility, even though this car spends most of it's time parked in a carport. She does like to visit her grand-daughter often and she usually parks under a tree when visiting.

Clay can remove a lot - but it can't always remove everything.

True - thanks for the info :xyxthumbs:.

 

[ski2]

Might want to consider the ValuGard "A-B-C" Neutralization System--just 3 washes and it removes all contamination and many times eliminates the need for claying.

 

[FrankS]

Here's how the hood turned out after a two step process using the Rupes LHR 15ES DA.

• Step #1 - Rupes Zephir Gloss Coarse Gel Compound (Blue) with Rupes Blue Coarse Foam Pad.
  
• Step #2 - Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Gel Polish (Yellow) with Rupes Yellow Polishing Foam Pad.
  
• LSP - Opti-Coat 2.0

I'm very pleased with the way the hood turned out, even with the somewhat rough texture of the paint. As you can see, it was partly cloudy when the picture was taken.

I will try some of the suggestions that have been mentioned on the other panels, particularly the roof and the trunk, to see if that helps eliminate some of the roughness of the paint. Will update soon.

 

[Nomadsto]

The nanoskins ship with a protective coating, and won't work correctly until its warn or washed off. This may be your issue. Good luck.

 

[FrankS]

The nanoskins ship with a protective coating, and won't work correctly until its warn or washed off. This may be your issue. Good luck.

Good point, but all the mitts and pads I've used have been properly broken in.

 

[jmsc]

Any updates?

Did you see Mike P. on THU?