Paint thickness Q's

If it were my car i would just live with it or 3000 wet sand. I really need to invest in a $4,000 PTG

If it were a customers car I would call Larry H Parker to work my case before I even touch the car. Haha
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Perhaps what Rsurfer meant was that if the peel is that heavy, you can see when you level it while sanding. Which is fine if the peel is all in the clear and none of it is telegraphing from the base, and if the person sanding is careful and experienced enough to not sand any of the valleys.

When all is said and done with this project--the OP has said he's going to follow with a coating which should restore some of the UV protection, and it's the trunk lid which would be a lot easier to respray than if he was sanding the roof, if there is ever a problem.
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AG has gotten me super paranoid. I have wet sanded a bunch of cars. Probably like 500 (consider that a very few) panels from the little time I spent working at the Body Shop.

You can see what you are doing when wet sanding. After wiping with a squeegee. All is revealed. (For the most part)
 
hernandez.art13 said:
AG has gotten me super paranoid. I have wet sanded a bunch of cars. Probably like 500 (consider that a very few) panels from the little time I spent working at the Body Shop.

You can see what you are doing when wet sanding. After wiping with a squeegee. All is revealed. (For the most part)
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Yeah, but that's in the body shop, with freshly painted panels that were sprayed with the intent of being sanded, plus if you screwed it up, they would just pull it in and re-spray it (after cursing you out). They don't (routinely) sand anything at the factory, and the paint is as razor thin as their profit margins.

PS Plenty of people sand their factory paint, and think everything is fine...it might be years and years before the clear fails if you've thinned it, and with so many people leasing their cars, they are turning them in in 2-5 years.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, but that's in the body shop, with freshly painted panels that were sprayed with the intent of being sanded, plus if you screwed it up, they would just pull it in and re-spray it (after cursing you out). They don't (routinely) sand anything at the factory, and the paint is as razor thin as their profit margins.

PS Plenty of people sand their factory paint, and think everything is fine...it might be years and years before the clear fails if you've thinned it, and with so many people leasing their cars, they are turning them in in 2-5 years.
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Yeah, that's why the most sanding I would do on a customers car is Compound.

I still want to learn the "proper" steps for a keyed car.

Anybody have a link of Mike Phillips talking about this?
 
zmcgovern45 said:
So the most sanding you would do on a customer car is zero sanding? :confused:




Here is a method that can be used for some heavier RIDS

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ghly-specialized-technique-mike-phillips.html
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Thank you ZMCGovern45 this was a great read. This is the level I am almost at. Not a beginner but not yet a True pro

I have a Black BMW that I am going to start working on. (More on that later cos I don't have pictures yet)

Still not 100% sure in the wording. But it was detailed using a Rotary buffer. So it has the Rotary Buffer marks. (Not sure they are called rids or holograms)

What I was going do it see if my poor boys extra fine swirl remover can take them off... If not move to medium then compound. I was not going to wet sand at all. Since I am doing this as a favor, if compound did not work then. I would have asked one of my family members to come in and help. Cousin then Uncle in that order.

I have wet sanded a bunch of cars but never customer cars. Only when I was at the shop and the panel was freshly painted and dried to remove orange peel.

After reading this, if I did have to go all the way to compound and that still doesn't remove them. Then i will talk to the owner and tell him that if he wants i can try wet sanding. He'll know the risk. He's an adjuster/estimator. And I'll leave that decision up to him.

What do you guys think?
 
Your correction process seems to be in order... you should have no trouble removing rotary holograms without sanding.

Is it BMW Sapphire Black Metallic or is it BMW Jet Black? These paints are on opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of hardness. Jet Black tends to be pretty soft, while Sapphire Black tends to be harder... however I would still proceed by starting with a finishing polish and see what you get, then work your way up accordingly.

Here is an example of a Sapphire Black BMW I did recently
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...re-black-2008-335i-multi-step-correction.html

and here is an example of Jet Black BMW I did recently
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ick-2013-detailing-season-trashed-e46-m3.html

Hope that helps
 
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