paintless dent removal

[SNP209]

I certainly do.

The lines are so helpful, a tiniest dent is visible under the light.

For this particular dent (pictured) I thought I can do it from behind, but there is another layer of metal on the inside, so has to be glue pull.

As you know the surface has to be cleaned with alcohol so the hot glue sticks as it should. Also, to remove the glue, alcohol is needed again. My issue is that the car has ceramic coat, so alcohol is no, no I believe .. ?!?

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If you're lucky you can find an access point between the two layers and push the metal but that is if you have the right rod to begin with. Using alcohol on a coating is fine. Most prep sprays are alcohol based anyways. Glue pulling on ceramic coated cars is tricky. With most quality coatings, the glue simply will not form a strong enough bond to pull out the dent and will need to be removed for a proper pull. A good way to test this is to place your tab on the dent and once it has enough time to set try to pull it with your hand. If it comes right off, then you definitely need to remove the coating. If it doesn't, then try to pull it with whatever pulling tool you have, gently. What you will be looking for is movement within the metal. If the tab pops off before you see any movement, then the coating will need to be removed or "knocked down" at the very least. It doesn't have to be the entire panel, just the area where you need the glue to bond.

 

[Danube]

If you're lucky you can find an access point between the two layers and push the metal but that is if you have the right rod to begin with. Using alcohol on a coating is fine. Most prep sprays are alcohol based anyways. Glue pulling on ceramic coated cars is tricky. With most quality coatings, the glue simply will not form a strong enough bond to pull out the dent and will need to be removed for a proper pull. A good way to test this is to place your tab on the dent and once it has enough time to set try to pull it with your hand. If it comes right off, then you definitely need to remove the coating. If it doesn't, then try to pull it with whatever pulling tool you have, gently. What you will be looking for is movement within the metal. If the tab pops off before you see any movement, then the coating will need to be removed or "knocked down" at the very least. It doesn't have to be the entire panel, just the area where you need the glue to bond.

I need to remove the wheel and try to find access, if any. That would be a better option than glue pulling I guess.

The dude in the video mentioned 5 or more coats or ceramic .. I've never heard that anyone is using that many coats, but he may know something we don't.

As for tools, I do have some basic rods.

If that fails I guess I can compound that tiny spot only and re-apply the coating once completed.

 

[SNP209]

I need to remove the wheel and try to find access, if any. That would be a better option than glue pulling I guess.

The dude in the video mentioned 5 or more coats or ceramic .. I've never heard that anyone is using that many coats, but he may know something we don't.

As for tools, I do have some basic rods.

If that fails I guess I can compound that tiny spot only and re-apply the coating once completed.

Might need to peel back the wheel liner as well to have a better look. If you do find you are able to access it with a rod, it might be a good idea to put the wheel back on for leverage purposes.

That video is a few years old when multi layer coatings were more prominent. In most cases, PDR glue will have trouble bonding to any quality ceramic coating whether its 1 layer or 10 layers.

 

[Danube]

Might need to peel back the wheel liner as well to have a better look. If you do find you are able to access it with a rod, it might be a good idea to put the wheel back on for leverage purposes.

That video is a few years old when multi layer coatings were more prominent. In most cases, PDR glue will have trouble bonding to any quality ceramic coating whether its 1 layer or 10 layers.

I have partially removed the wheel liner, there is definitely no access to the dent from behind, looks like glue pull is my best bet.

Besides. I've seen some dents on my old fridge, time to remove those as well (looks like the metal is very thin so I need to be extra cautious not to pull out too much of it).

 

[SNP209]

I have partially removed the wheel liner, there is definitely no access to the dent from behind, looks like glue pull is my best bet.

Besides. I've seen some dents on my old fridge, time to remove those as well (looks like the metal is very thin so I need to be extra cautious not to pull out too much of it).

Even if you pull too much of it out, that would be some good practice for tapping down

 

[UncleDavy]

My nephew is a Dent Wizard and he went through intense training to master his craft. Paintless dent removal is the real deal. He removes dents with various tools without damaging the paint. He works the rental car lots at the Hartford airport removing dents caused by hail damage. I don’t know about the price because he did my truck for free.

 

[Danube]

My nephew is a Dent Wizard and he went through intense training to master his craft. Paintless dent removal is the real deal. He removes dents with various tools without damaging the paint. He works the rental car lots at the Hartford airport removing dents caused by hail damage. I don’t know about the price because he did my truck for free.

He has certainly invested a lot of time & effort to get there.

Like any craft I guess, but I'm just at the very beginning of the road ...!