Patina, Rust, and Oxidation Process Suggestions

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RdoubleU

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Apr 21, 2014
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Patina, Rust, and Oxidation Process Suggestions

I’ve used the forum and all its knowledge along with Mike’s articles, how to’s, and videos for awhile now on other projects and cars with great success.

My current project though is one without a clear consensus on how to approach

And I am honestly on the fence for which will be the right process to move forward with that will give the right effect.

I will state up front my goal: I want to clean the oxidation off of the paint to give what color is left a deeper richer look while also adding in some UV/water barrier

Sorry for the length J

Here’s the before pictures:
 
As Mike states - I want to take what paint I have left to the Max : http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ing-your-car-s-paint-s-maximum-potential.html

Now to do that I have been doing my research but honestly just collecting more and more data without a plan of implementation for my scenario

I’ll link each thread and my thoughts as well:

Oxidation How to with Meguiar’s #7: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
  • Great breakdown on precleaning the paint
  • Soaking it in #7 and buffing it out
  • But this paint is uniform and without rust in areas, so I know it would work on the painted parts but not sure effects on the rust and primer areas


Single Stage Process By Hand: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...51494-1970-mustang-mach-1-video-pictures.html
  • All the products used on this car would be would I would use on the truck if going this route
  • Again – the paint on this mustang was pretty consistent all over with no large rust areas
  • Would buff/polishing by hand be safest method? Or could I use the DA carefully with this method?


’53 Chevy Truck in Similar Condition: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56227-52-gmc-patina-look-help-2.html
  • This is the only thread on the forum that addresses my question with a similar situation
  • Mike mentions his process taken before on these paint types has been : “When I've buffed rigs like this out I compound them and polish and wax the good paint and then buff the steel sections enough to make them shiny and then keep on buffing it once in a while and waxing it to prevent rust.”
  • Would you compound and polish with a machine or by hand?
  • How and with what would you buff the steel sections?
  • Also what wax is recommended to use in this type of application? I’m thinking the rusted areas would be tough to wax and not leave a residue of some sort


Another mention of buffing/polishing the rust spots: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ar-finish-antique-single-stage-paints-15.html
  • Mikes comments: “I went ahead and used the #7 liberally with a terrycloth wash cloth and a lot of elbow grease and let the oils in the #7 lubricate the rubbing process and let the nap of the terrycloth be my abrasive and with enough rubbing you can remove the rust and make the steel that is now exposed with no paint SHINY and restore the color to what's left of the paint.
    Put most of your focus on the rusty portions as you don't want to rub and rub and rub on the painted areas needlessly as the paint will restore faster than the rusted metal will clean up.
    I'd also consider buffing the rusted areas by machine, like by using a foam cutting pad with a compound. The foam and the compound will gently abrade off the rust.
    Here's the deal, if you want to maintain the ORIGINAL PATINA then you can rub that rust off and make the metal shiny and the paint pretty and then by regular polishing and waxing you can keep the paint looking great and the metal looking shiny. I've done it on my own classic cars that had thin paint. It's just a matter of regularly polishing the metal to prevent it from rusting.
    Using some wax will also slow down the rust but retain the shiny metal look.”
  • I don’t think that I will get to a level of shiny metal in my rusted areas
  • Or maybe I’m thinking bare metal when shiny is mentioned and I shouldn’t be?
In addition I came across this product in my searches - Ratwax: Rat Wax - Matte Paint Detailer - Rat Wax - Car Care Products for Rods & Kustoms , I couldn’t find any reviews on it beyond the company website but it appears to be a solution for matte vehicles without any other additives/polishes/etc added to the paint and that don’t want a shiny appearance

I’ve done a test spot by hand on the roof with just polish and the paint that was mixed in with rust shined up

However not sure what would be the best next stage to attempt and the right process to follow in order to make maintaining the finish down the road easy to do

Hoping this will not only help me but others in the future looking for answers / ideas / suggestions

Thanks
 
There are some spots on that truck that you could rejuvanate with meg's #7, and you could try simichrome on the chrome to see how nice you can get it, and then put sealant or wax on it, but as far as the rust, the paint there is gone.
Frankly, this truck needs a restoration, or at least spotting in, ie, sandpaper, metal prep, primer, and paint. You could use the paint code to get a match for the paint or use megs #7 on an area , followed by polishing, to see the real color to match.


This truck reminds me of my car before it was restored. Oxidized paint and red primer, with spots of grey primer and metal and rust in the body.
Ouch.
You can fog this in with spray cans after you sand, prep and primer and sand it with the right color, and then sand to blend it.
That should be good for 40 feet away.
The only way to make this truck right is a restoration, I'm sorry to say.
 
Blackthorn One said:
Frankly, this truck needs a restoration, or at least spotting in, ie, sandpaper, metal prep, primer, and paint.

The only way to make this truck right is a restoration, I'm sorry to say.
Click to expand...

Now where's the fun and all the character in that :laughing:

Thanks for the ideas on spotting in areas though

Still mainly looking at maximizing what's there
 
Is it your intention to make what can be shiny, shiny and leave the rusty parts rusty, and still be able to wax and protect it?
That's interesting.
I guess some sanding, rust inhibiting primer, some paint that looks like rust, followed by some clear over it would give you that look, and still be maintainable.
 
I'm not going to lie. In my opinion, that truck looks awesome as it sits. (maybe you could go a little lower, ;) ) There are times and places where patina looks good. This is one of those times. I would leave it as is and drive it. I've seen too many trucks lately where people are trying to get this look by sanding and acid etching new paint. Yours is already there.

In a situation like this, I equate it to a Fender Strat. IMO, a new one is nice, but a vintage road worn Strat is better. Nice touch with the Salt Flats. By brother has the same wheels on his modded S10. Just my 2 cents! Good luck with the truck!
 
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