PC 7424XP what wax to get? and pads?

animescreen

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Sorry I made thread about what pads to get for polishing and what polish but I don't think I'm ready to polish yet until I read the Mike P. Book and dvd I got on here. Hahha i got it signed so I'm hoping the connection will give me some confidence in doing this and not marre the paint.

Meanwhile, questions regarding waxing.

1). I won't be doing polish as mentioned until I practice on mazda3 first and watch Mike P lol. Then will do it my x3 bmw. But I will go ahead and do wax with the 7424xp so which pads should i get on here for wax?

2). Which wax should I get on here too. (I'm hoping more like small size so i can try different waxes and see which one works best. Plan on waxing every 2-3 months).

3). Since I'm not polishing, can I basically,
wash, claybar, ironx (or even omit this), and then wax?

4). I'm guessing wax doesn't need too much technique compared to polishing so don't have to wait for the Mike p book/dvd right

5). How many pads should I buy and how do i clean them so the wax doesn't like dry and end up scratching up the car..
 
Sorry I made thread about what pads to get for polishing and what polish but I don't think I'm ready to polish yet until I read the Mike P. Book and dvd I got on here. Hahha i got it signed so I'm hoping the connection will give me some confidence in doing this and not marre the paint.

Meanwhile, questions regarding waxing.

1). I won't be doing polish as mentioned until I practice on mazda3 first and watch Mike P lol. Then will do it my x3 bmw. But I will go ahead and do wax with the 7424xp so which pads should i get on here for wax?

2). Which wax should I get on here too. (I'm hoping more like small size so i can try different waxes and see which one works best. Plan on waxing every 2-3 months).

3). Since I'm not polishing, can I basically,
wash, claybar, ironx (or even omit this), and then wax?

4). I'm guessing wax doesn't need too much technique compared to polishing so don't have to wait for the Mike p book/dvd right

5). How many pads should I buy and how do i clean them so the wax doesn't like dry and end up scratching up the car..

Your thoughts are smart-wise ones, to be first practicing on a lesser vehicle first, to get the hang of what you're doing, and how to use a D/A machine like the Porter Cable.

Although I had Rotary Polisher experience beforehand, still, such a machine is a new tool to gain some mastery of.
And I did exactly like what you wish to do, I practiced on my lesser junkmobile Kia Spectra to see what processes and products worked, and to gain experience with the machine.

The very most basic set-up which basically all will agree on, is to outfit the PC Machine with a 5" Backing Plate. This can be either the Lake Country 5" Yellow Urethane, or the Griots Garage 5" Ventilated Backing Plate. I have both, and either are just fine.

The White Flat Lake Country Pads in 5.5" size will be the appropriate sized Pads to pair with the 5" Backing Plates.
In time, you may wish to acquire a 4" (3-7/8" actually) LC Backing Plate, and purchase 4" LC White Pads. Again White is the most basic of all types to use in most common applications.

To have some coarser Orange Pads will be good to have. As for waxing Pads for the Porter Cable Machine, either the Blue, Black, or Red Flat LC Pads will all be suitable if you should choose to machine wax.

Now here's the thing with Machine Waxing: Some waxes and sealants are quite durable, and also quite stubborn to remove from Pads. In some cases, there's almost no cleaner that can come along after and totally remove such from the Pads. Yes, some Polishes can be difficult to get out when cleaning Pads, even with dedicated Pad Cleaners, but Waxes can be considerably harder to remove.

It's why for certain very durable waxes, I'll choose to hand apply them with either a Microfiber, or Foam Hand Applicator.

Sure, you can do whatever you wish, wax protection, no matter what, and what has been done beforehand even if nothing but just a wash is still a good idea, that the paint has some protection. You can do as little or as much as you choose.

Trust that no hobbyist Clays, Decons with Iron-X and polishes every time they wish to throw a coat of Wax or Sealant on their vehicles, Just a simple wash and dry will do. That would be exhausting, and unnecessary.

Now as far as a good wax, or sealant, which as you wish would last a period of 3 months or so. There's hundreds!

And for every member here, you can likely get a different recommendation based on their personal likes.

If you want "really easy", then I might suggest a great product made my Optimum called "Opti-Seal" This clear liquid Sealant, as well as others similar, such as Ultima Paint Guard Plus are real game changers, called "WOWA" sealants, meaning "wipe on-walk away" types.

You apply very sparingly, spread with a hand applicator, either sprayed onto a panel, or onto the applicator, apply to panels, and then merely come back with a soft clean MF Towel to remove any excesses and/or high spots.

These are really cool products, and one beauty is they leave no nasty chalky dried residues behind in cracks, near trim. I especially love these two products best of all for protection of Door Jambs, Door Sills, under hood, and trunk areas, where there's paint, so easy, and yes, either of these will last a minimum of 3 months on a daily driver.

One bottle of either of these will do many vehicles, or one vehicle quite a number of times, since such little product is needed and goes a long way.

Going onto other more durable wax-sealant-hybrid products would be Collinite's #845 Insulator Wax, or even more durable, their #467 Super Doublecoat Detergent-Proof Paste Wax. These are a little more difficult to apply and remove in their respective order, but are both outstanding products, both been around a long time, and there's many dedicated loyal fans of these two products.

Any of the Autogeek Brands will not be disappointments, there's countless more I could name, but will try to end this post for now.
 
Just wanted to add, the 4 wax-sealant products I've previously mentioned contain no cleaners or abrasives in them.

That if your paint has contaminants or dirts on them after a wash, these would not be ideal.
 
Mark nailed some points above. I agree with the LC black, red or blue pads.

I have dedicated pads that are bagged and tagged for specific product use. As Mark said, waxes and sealants are difficult to fully clean out of pads so I dedicate pads to products.

My favorite "wax" is Collinite 845.
 
Just my two cents:

I very MUCH prefer waxing by hand over machine. I know that I will get blow-back for this opinion, but it is my preference.

I have tried machine waxing, and I while I do agree it can lay a very thin & even coat, my own hand and a foam applicator are not bad either.
Also, I never have to set the machine down (50 times) to reach into small areas or around trim, emblems, edges, etc.

The time the machine saves you on a large panel is quickly lost by going from machine to hand to machine...etc...

I feel the same about removal.

Like I said, just my opinion.........
 
Just my two cents:

I very MUCH prefer waxing by hand over machine. I know that I will get blow-back for this opinion, but it is my preference.

I have tried machine waxing, and I while I do agree it can lay a very thin & even coat, my own hand and a foam applicator are not bad either.
Also, I never have to set the machine down (50 times) to reach into small areas or around trim, emblems, edges, etc.

The time the machine saves you on a large panel is quickly lost by going from machine to hand to machine...etc...

I feel the same about removal.

Like I said, just my opinion.........

I know people like Mike Phillips likes laying down a coat of wax via machine, but I'm his exact opposite often, depends. I love the intimacy, the hands on loving approach of hand applying a wax, particularly a paste, or a sealant via hand.

There's no downside as I see it, other than a bit of elbow grease, which I don't at all mind.

And here's another way I look at it. By the time you other guys go get and whip out your machine, fit a pad, hook it up with extension cord, get situated, apply wax, and begin, I've already got 3/4ths of the car coated with a wax-sealant. But then again, such "might" depend?

I say might, cause I have in the past used waxes, and where applied by hand saw spotty blotches were it did look like an uneven application, or some other issue. Perhaps downforce and the amount of rubbing. Some waxes can be a bear to have them "soak" and bond into a paint finish.

Back in the day, it wasn't uncommon where with the heavy duty Nu-Look Waxes I used to use, I'd whip out my Waxcoa Orbital Wax Machine, and both apply and mostly remove product with it, then finish up with Beefcloth toweling.

Some had cleaners, and fine abrasives (Cleaner Waxes-AIO's) and I did get better end results with the Waxcoa Orbital.

Results always came our very even and uniform. And must admit, and defending Mike P here, it did save some wear and tear on the hands and arms!

Back then, I'd often tell people that I could put an 8 year old on this machine, and he'd get better results than a pro by hand. And that wasn't that far off the mark as far as truth.
 
My PC7424XP is my dedicated Sealant/wax applicator. I put it on Speed setting 2 - 2.5 and use a 4" Red Lake Country CCS pad. Their Flat pads would be just as good is my guess. This is the only way I apply sealant or wax. I will take the pad off and was the areas a DE can't reach or be very careful area (ie trim). But I can use liquid or paste wax either way is fine. For a paste wax I use a 3" Pad. That usually fits the jar and you can dab the wax from the jar.

Lot better than by hand!
 
Your thoughts are smart-wise ones, to be first practicing on a lesser vehicle first, to get the hang of what you're doing, and how to use a D/A machine like the Porter Cable.

Although I had Rotary Polisher experience beforehand, still, such a machine is a new tool to gain some mastery of.
And I did exactly like what you wish to do, I practiced on my lesser junkmobile Kia Spectra to see what processes and products worked, and to gain experience with the machine.

The very most basic set-up which basically all will agree on, is to outfit the PC Machine with a 5" Backing Plate. This can be either the Lake Country 5" Yellow Urethane, or the Griots Garage 5" Ventilated Backing Plate. I have both, and either are just fine.

The White Flat Lake Country Pads in 5.5" size will be the appropriate sized Pads to pair with the 5" Backing Plates.
In time, you may wish to acquire a 4" (3-7/8" actually) LC Backing Plate, and purchase 4" LC White Pads. Again White is the most basic of all types to use in most common applications.

To have some coarser Orange Pads will be good to have. As for waxing Pads for the Porter Cable Machine, either the Blue, Black, or Red Flat LC Pads will all be suitable if you should choose to machine wax.

Now here's the thing with Machine Waxing: Some waxes and sealants are quite durable, and also quite stubborn to remove from Pads. In some cases, there's almost no cleaner that can come along after and totally remove such from the Pads. Yes, some Polishes can be difficult to get out when cleaning Pads, even with dedicated Pad Cleaners, but Waxes can be considerably harder to remove.

It's why for certain very durable waxes, I'll choose to hand apply them with either a Microfiber, or Foam Hand Applicator.

Sure, you can do whatever you wish, wax protection, no matter what, and what has been done beforehand even if nothing but just a wash is still a good idea, that the paint has some protection. You can do as little or as much as you choose.

Trust that no hobbyist Clays, Decons with Iron-X and polishes every time they wish to throw a coat of Wax or Sealant on their vehicles, Just a simple wash and dry will do. That would be exhausting, and unnecessary.

Now as far as a good wax, or sealant, which as you wish would last a period of 3 months or so. There's hundreds!

And for every member here, you can likely get a different recommendation based on their personal likes.

If you want "really easy", then I might suggest a great product made my Optimum called "Opti-Seal" This clear liquid Sealant, as well as others similar, such as Ultima Paint Guard Plus are real game changers, called "WOWA" sealants, meaning "wipe on-walk away" types.

You apply very sparingly, spread with a hand applicator, either sprayed onto a panel, or onto the applicator, apply to panels, and then merely come back with a soft clean MF Towel to remove any excesses and/or high spots.

These are really cool products, and one beauty is they leave no nasty chalky dried residues behind in cracks, near trim. I especially love these two products best of all for protection of Door Jambs, Door Sills, under hood, and trunk areas, where there's paint, so easy, and yes, either of these will last a minimum of 3 months on a daily driver.

One bottle of either of these will do many vehicles, or one vehicle quite a number of times, since such little product is needed and goes a long way.

Going onto other more durable wax-sealant-hybrid products would be Collinite's #845 Insulator Wax, or even more durable, their #467 Super Doublecoat Detergent-Proof Paste Wax. These are a little more difficult to apply and remove in their respective order, but are both outstanding products, both been around a long time, and there's many dedicated loyal fans of these two products.

Any of the Autogeek Brands will not be disappointments, there's countless more I could name, but will try to end this post for now.

- I am getting the Griots Garage 5” Plate but what is purpose for the 4” (3-7/8) plate. I’m guessing for smaller areas ?
- I do wanna machine wax and will get the pads but how many should I get?
As mentioned, after claying and iron x I’ll be waxing probably every 2 months.
- I was gonna do machine wax but if its too durable to remove from the pad (and probably have to throw it out), isn’t there less durable wax that is easy to clean off and reuse the pad without any residue on the pad? Since I’ll be waxing every 2 months or so. If not, I’ll just have to do by hand.
- I understand each time I wax I don’t have to clay, ironx, and polish again and just wash/dry and rewax but shouldn’t I erase or remove the wax before reapply as it seems your laying one top over another making it like caked on makeup.
- So anytime let say I use a like tar remover or bug spray remover .. this will remove wax so I’ll have to apply wax in that area correct? So the "WOWA" sealants seems to be something for that where you wipe and go etc..
 
Just wanted to add, the 4 wax-sealant products I've previously mentioned contain no cleaners or abrasives in them.

That if your paint has contaminants or dirts on them after a wash, these would not be ideal.

So the sealants you mentioned doesn't have any cleaning or abrassive in them so if i were to reapply the wax, i basically would have to just do a through cleaning and drying right before reapplying wax. I'm guessing Doing thewash, claybar, ironx, and applying wax I don't have to worry too much about dirt afterwards since it will be clean after just washing since its protected from previous wax and then go ahead and reapply wax correct? As mentioned not sure if i'm suppose to remove wax though or go over the wax already covered. I plan on waxing ever 2 month.
 
My PC7424XP is my dedicated Sealant/wax applicator. I put it on Speed setting 2 - 2.5 and use a 4" Red Lake Country CCS pad. Their Flat pads would be just as good is my guess. This is the only way I apply sealant or wax. I will take the pad off and was the areas a DE can't reach or be very careful area (ie trim). But I can use liquid or paste wax either way is fine. For a paste wax I use a 3" Pad. That usually fits the jar and you can dab the wax from the jar.

Lot better than by hand!

And just like with applying, there's a way as well to remove via machine.

That unused 6.5" Pad from the PC Machine, get the proper MF Bonnets, and take it off too!
 
Where are you located and what color is your car?

I made the edit.
I saw in your other thread you are in Seattle.
Get a couple black 5.5 inch LC flat pads for sealant application
My shoulders don't take the doing it by hand approach anymore.
I actually feel the sealant is massaged into the paint better when using the machine.

Collinite 845 is a super great, super easy to use sealant with great durability.

Rippy Ds sealant chart might be worth looking at for real world results
Sealant info - Google Sheets
 
- I am getting the Griots Garage 5” Plate but what is purpose for the 4” (3-7/8) plate. I’m guessing for smaller areas ?
- I do wanna machine wax and will get the pads but how many should I get?
As mentioned, after claying and iron x I’ll be waxing probably every 2 months.
- I was gonna do machine wax but if its too durable to remove from the pad (and probably have to throw it out), isn’t there less durable wax that is easy to clean off and reuse the pad without any residue on the pad? Since I’ll be waxing every 2 months or so. If not, I’ll just have to do by hand.
- I understand each time I wax I don’t have to clay, ironx, and polish again and just wash/dry and rewax but shouldn’t I erase or remove the wax before reapply as it seems your laying one top over another making it like caked on makeup.
- So anytime let say I use a like tar remover or bug spray remover .. this will remove wax so I’ll have to apply wax in that area correct? So the "WOWA" sealants seems to be something for that where you wipe and go etc..

I'll try to answer all.
Yes, the smaller Backing Plate (3-7/8') I previously mentioned would be the correct Backing Plate to use with 4" Pads of whatever type. This gives a safe overlap of the pad so you won't run the Backing Plate while it's running into paint, mirrors-etc.

Both the PC7424 and the Griots GG6 Machines can even be adapted to use 3" Pads also, with the appropriate Backing Plate. The various size Backing Plates can all be had with the correct sized and threaded attachment stud. On both Machines, all Backing Plates must be used with a Fiber Backing Plate Washer. Extras can be gotten here.

You've hit the nail on the head, yes the smaller Plates and respective Pads will be for polishing-correcting in smaller areas where the larger Pads cannot get to effectively. Or the larger Pads then might be negatively effecting neighboring trim, or an area you do not wish to polish. Bumpers, Mirrors, A and B Pillars, Sill Steps, Spoilers, Headlights-Tail Lights if needed, smaller tight areas, and deep dips-valleys on a body panel.

Now onto waxes-sealants. While I've said that there are many Waxes and Sealants, and the few that I mentioned earlier that have no cleaners or abrasives in them per se, many have carrier solvents in them, and those solvents can often be petroleum based.

Meaning they will cut and remove things like greases, oils, and sometimes even lesser saps that aren't totally baked onto a finish. The "Cleaners" that might be in some products such as All In One Products and Cleaner Waxes are merely that, detergents of some sort.

Same principle basically as washing your face with soap, or without soap. The soap will of course get your face cleaner, just as a cleaner wax product will help better clean the paint of imbedded dirt, road grime, oils-greases, saps, etc. "if" they are present.

In regards to the use of Machine Pads for Waxing, I think some other member touched on this earlier in this thread. That yes, such Pads will have to be cleaned as best they can, so dirts can be removed off of the Pads, then let them dry fully, place them in a Ziplock Bag and label that bag with what waxes or sealants were previously used with them.

One you may for say label "Collinite #845, or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 (WGDGPS), etc, etc.

Many products because of their chemical make-up do sort of come behind and remove previous coats of wax or sealant, so no real need to go stripping your paint first to then re-apply a wax-sealant of whatever choice at that given moment. You're not going to have 42 coats of wax on a paint after 42 wax jobs!

The only "wild card" is when going from a wax or sealant to a durable Ceramic Paint Coating. Then yes, the paint must be fully stripped of pre-existing products applied, oils, greases, oils from Polishes-Compounds, etc to get proper bonding and behavior of the Ceramic Coatings. Such Prep Products are made by a number of manufacturers.

Yes, many products such as Tar Removers will remove most protectants. so yes, re-apply whenever removing tars, saps, etc. There are said to be many durable Ceramic Coatings though, where such petroleum solvents will not remove or harm the Coating. Only Polishing with an abrasive product (Polish-Compound) will remove them.

Hope this helps.
 
Now some might say and advise, that let's say you've been waxing your vehicle with a product such as Collinite #476 Super Doublecoat Paste Wax for the last few years, and now want to try a different synthetic Sealant, let's say Sonax, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, etc etc.

They might advise that to get the best effect, look, and proper bonding of these different products that it would be wise to start with a clean canvas so to speak.

To remove the pre-existing wax with some form of stripping the paint. Such can be mechanical (polishing) or chemical (Solely dedicated paint prep-cleaner product)

I suppose such makes logical sense. Hope this hasn't confused you further.
 
Didn't answer one of your questions, of "How many Pads to get for Waxing?"

I would say maybe only 2 or 3 to start, and I would dedicate each one of those Pads for a specific Wax or Sealant used. To not cross-contaminate different products on any given Pad.

Now comes an even tougher decision, what size? Most, as well as myself would suggest not using 5.5" Flat Pads to apply a wax or sealant, that a smaller Backing Plate, and Pad would be more ideal for getting into more areas with the machine.

That the more paint you can get to with the machine, this means less work following up by hand to get to the areas the machine has missed and was unable to get to. It is inevitable that the hand must be used in many areas, that basically no machine can get to. Grills, Mirrors, Door Handle Coves, Door Jambs, under Hood and Trunk areas, etc.

The Pads of choice in either the Lake Country Flat Pad, or Lake Country ThinPro lineup will be Black, Blue, or Red. All will be suitable for Wax-Sealant appilcations.

Such could be 4" Pads, and there are some, and even Mike Phillips himself I recall making mention of liking that little Baby Griots 3" Polisher, with only just 3" Pads on board.
 
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