Petrucci_M3
New member
- Oct 19, 2007
- 247
- 0
PetrucciM3 | BMW E92 M3 Jet Black
Wash:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Chemical Guys Heavy Duty Bucket
Grit Guard
Chemical Guys Super Fluffy Mitt
Gilmour Foam Gun
Clayed:
Meguiar’s Medium clay
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Paint Correction:
Makita 9227C | 3M Backing Plate
Flex 3403 rotary | Gloss-it 3 inch Backing Plate
Meguiar’s 105 | Purple Wool pad/ LC Orange Pad
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish | Purple Wool/ LC Orange pad
Menzerna Nano Polish | LC White pad
Menzerna 85rd | LC Blue pad
CM5300
Fenix TK10
Detailer Domain Uber Towels
Highline Paint Gauge Meter
Protection:
Jetseal109
LSP:
Pinnacle Souveran
Exterior Trim:
Aerospace 303
Glass:
Stoner’s Invisible Glass
Wheels:
EZ Detail Brush
Swissvax Wheel Brush
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
Surfcity Tire Shine
Exhaust:
Chemical Guy’s Metal Shine
Engine:
Various Brushes
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
CD2
This beautiful M3 was scheduled for an exterior paint correction and engine detail. Just in time for Bimmerfest which will be held this upcoming Sunday in Pasadena.
I’ve worked on a few jet black BMWs in the past before and I was prepping myself for the worst. This one was no stranger to the ultra soft BMW paint that everyone dreads. Boy was I in for ride. After the car had been thoroughly washed and clayed I looked for test spot that I could try a few combinations to see which would most likely work.
I measured the surface of the rear quarter panel near the rear wheel, and I found 164 microns to be the general consu.. In the past I’ve had to use orange pads with SIP, with a few multiple passes to get the panel prepped for a finer polish. I first started out with a Lake Country white CCS pad with 106FA just see what it could do. I started out at 600 rpms then bumped Makita up to 1300 rpms then back down to 900 to burnish the finish. I checked my work with my H2O/IPA solution. That’s when the sweat started to form on my brow.
Not only did it remove very few swirls but the panel was so soft that when I wiped away my solution I was leaving nice streaks that would not come off the panel. Every time I tried to wipe away the streaks I started to scratch the panel up again. I tried a quick detailer to see if I could get the streaking off, no luck. One wipe would remove the previous wipe but then leave another one to deal with. Round and round we go.
I was thinking to myself that I would might have to do a no towel correction as I couldn’t get away from scratching the finish with my MF towels. At that point I thought I might not ever finish.
Anyways, I found that one pass with 105 and SIP on a orange pad at 1500 rpms would remove a majority of the RIDs and swirls in the paint. That was great and all, but a white pad with 106FA could not finish down paint. So I tried my 3401 with a blue pad and 85rd and finally success.
The combo I used was 105/orange pad à SIP/orange pad à 85rd/blue pad (Flex 3401 DA) and an IPA wipe down, as carefully as you can imagine, to remove the oils still left in the paint and to ensure a proper cleansed surface ready for the LSP.
This combo worked great until I was about ¾ of the way of being complete with the paint correction. 105 and an orange pad wasn’t putting a dent in to the heavily swirled driver’s door. I pulled out a purple wool pad and combined 105 with it. I was afraid when I wiped away the polish I would have an even bigger mess to fix. But no, this worked excellent. There was barely any hazing, but a few RIDs still stood in the paint. I tried another swipe and again nothing was removed. This was quite frustrating at this point. So, I tried SIP on the wool pad for fun, and finally the clouds lifted and the weight that had been building up on my shoulders was released.
To my surprise I found the panel with barely or no hazing/micro marring. Instead of grabbing the 3401 and blue pad I tried a white pad with 85rd see how that would do. Amazing, it finished down. How could this combination work now?
My new combo that helped me finish off the car:
SIP/purple wool pad à 85rd/white pad
Hopefully this can help anyone struggling with jet black BMW paint.
Wash:
Rear Fender - Before
Rear Fender - 50/50:
Rear Fender - Before:
Rear Fender - After:
Rear - Before:
Rear - After:
Trunk - Before:
Trunk - 50/50:
Trunk - After:
Before:
After:
Wash:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Chemical Guys Heavy Duty Bucket
Grit Guard
Chemical Guys Super Fluffy Mitt
Gilmour Foam Gun
Clayed:
Meguiar’s Medium clay
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer
Paint Correction:
Makita 9227C | 3M Backing Plate
Flex 3403 rotary | Gloss-it 3 inch Backing Plate
Meguiar’s 105 | Purple Wool pad/ LC Orange Pad
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish | Purple Wool/ LC Orange pad
Menzerna Nano Polish | LC White pad
Menzerna 85rd | LC Blue pad
CM5300
Fenix TK10
Detailer Domain Uber Towels
Highline Paint Gauge Meter
Protection:
Jetseal109
LSP:
Pinnacle Souveran
Exterior Trim:
Aerospace 303
Glass:
Stoner’s Invisible Glass
Wheels:
EZ Detail Brush
Swissvax Wheel Brush
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
Surfcity Tire Shine
Exhaust:
Chemical Guy’s Metal Shine
Engine:
Various Brushes
Chemical Guy’s Grime Reaper
CD2
This beautiful M3 was scheduled for an exterior paint correction and engine detail. Just in time for Bimmerfest which will be held this upcoming Sunday in Pasadena.
I’ve worked on a few jet black BMWs in the past before and I was prepping myself for the worst. This one was no stranger to the ultra soft BMW paint that everyone dreads. Boy was I in for ride. After the car had been thoroughly washed and clayed I looked for test spot that I could try a few combinations to see which would most likely work.
I measured the surface of the rear quarter panel near the rear wheel, and I found 164 microns to be the general consu.. In the past I’ve had to use orange pads with SIP, with a few multiple passes to get the panel prepped for a finer polish. I first started out with a Lake Country white CCS pad with 106FA just see what it could do. I started out at 600 rpms then bumped Makita up to 1300 rpms then back down to 900 to burnish the finish. I checked my work with my H2O/IPA solution. That’s when the sweat started to form on my brow.
Not only did it remove very few swirls but the panel was so soft that when I wiped away my solution I was leaving nice streaks that would not come off the panel. Every time I tried to wipe away the streaks I started to scratch the panel up again. I tried a quick detailer to see if I could get the streaking off, no luck. One wipe would remove the previous wipe but then leave another one to deal with. Round and round we go.
I was thinking to myself that I would might have to do a no towel correction as I couldn’t get away from scratching the finish with my MF towels. At that point I thought I might not ever finish.
Anyways, I found that one pass with 105 and SIP on a orange pad at 1500 rpms would remove a majority of the RIDs and swirls in the paint. That was great and all, but a white pad with 106FA could not finish down paint. So I tried my 3401 with a blue pad and 85rd and finally success.
The combo I used was 105/orange pad à SIP/orange pad à 85rd/blue pad (Flex 3401 DA) and an IPA wipe down, as carefully as you can imagine, to remove the oils still left in the paint and to ensure a proper cleansed surface ready for the LSP.
This combo worked great until I was about ¾ of the way of being complete with the paint correction. 105 and an orange pad wasn’t putting a dent in to the heavily swirled driver’s door. I pulled out a purple wool pad and combined 105 with it. I was afraid when I wiped away the polish I would have an even bigger mess to fix. But no, this worked excellent. There was barely any hazing, but a few RIDs still stood in the paint. I tried another swipe and again nothing was removed. This was quite frustrating at this point. So, I tried SIP on the wool pad for fun, and finally the clouds lifted and the weight that had been building up on my shoulders was released.
To my surprise I found the panel with barely or no hazing/micro marring. Instead of grabbing the 3401 and blue pad I tried a white pad with 85rd see how that would do. Amazing, it finished down. How could this combination work now?
My new combo that helped me finish off the car:
SIP/purple wool pad à 85rd/white pad
Hopefully this can help anyone struggling with jet black BMW paint.
Wash:
Rear Fender - Before
Rear Fender - 50/50:
Rear Fender - Before:
Rear Fender - After:
Rear - Before:
Rear - After:
Trunk - Before:
Trunk - 50/50:
Trunk - After:
Before:
After:
Great job.
rops:
