Continued...
First up was to wash this classic. I don't normally use running water to wash classics, antiques, streetrods or muscle cars as I think it's wrong to introduce water where you can't get to it to remove it and that can lead to a rust problem. Just ask anyone that has restored a car what one of the biggest time expenditure is as well as expense and that is removing rust.
The issue with this car that demanded a full traditional wash job was the vinyl top had a cover on it for months by the previous owner and this caused
MOLD to grow on the top. So to remove the dirt and the mold we needed to use a number of chemicals and this meant washing the top to FLUSH the chemicals off the top and out of the grain and this in turn meant washing the car.
Here's Iron X on the vinyl top and on the paint as well as the bumpers, glass and wheels.
Look careful and you can see the Iron X red bleeding effect on the red paint.
All aspects of this car were contaminated.
Next we mixed up some soap solution and some clean water in our dual bucket wash system.
Next we used the McKee's 37 Foam Gun and the McKee's Xtreme Foam Formula car wash to wash the car.
Not pictured
After rinsing we we sprayed the top with Marine 31 Mildew Remover and machine applied it using a Porter Cable with a Cyclo Brush. Then the top was rinsed again.
After the Marine 31 Mold Remover was used on the top the top was foamed again and then washed with Microfiber Chenille mitts and rinsed.
Next the body panels were foamed and then mechanically decontaminated using Griot's Garage clay mitts. The paint and the glass were HORRIBLY contaminated with something but the Griot's Garage Fast Clay Mitts removed everything and left the paint completely smooth.
Wheels and tires were cleaned and rinsed and then after a final rinse the car was dried using Guzzler Waffle Weave drying towels.
