Piecemeal Paint Correction

tenblade2001

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My weekends are really tight on time and this is my first correction. I was considering doing the hood first to (1) test a couple sample products I have (Menz vs. Wolfgang) and (2) get my technique down. I was thinking of correcting the car over a month i.e. hood -> roof and trunk->side panels and bumpers. I realize I will have to seal after each time. Opinions? thanks!
 
My weekends are really tight on time and this is my first correction. I was considering doing the hood first to (1) test a couple sample products I have (Menz vs. Wolfgang) and (2) get my technique down. I was thinking of correcting the car over a month i.e. hood -> roof and trunk->side panels and bumpers. I realize I will have to seal after each time. Opinions? thanks!

absolutely no problem with this. correct and seal/coat as you go.

and you don't even have to traditional wash the whole car each time you start on a new area. if you did a deep wash/decon of the whole car before you started on the first section, you're good. just do a rinseless wash in that area.
 
Nope no issue working panel by panel. I would just wash and clay the whole car initially. Then work step by step around the car. If the car isn't being moved you could finish a panel completely or just do one step across the entire car until you move in. At most you may have a layer of dust which any waterless wash could easily remove.
 
My definition of "Paint Correction, Piecemeal":

The process of artistically reaching for a simpler tenor, in and of my own style...due to having to create adjustments out of necessity: A Life-Change Event, that I'm completely comfortable with, if ever there was one!

Tomorrow (hopefully) is another day.


Bob
 
On a sedan it takes me about 4 hours to do the entire vehicle including the sealer. I use Meguiars correction compound and then Meguiars finishing wax. Both are applied with my Porter Cable orbital buffer using the Meguiars cutting and polishing microfiber pads.
Unless your finish is really dull or have a lot of paint imperfections it shouldn't take you as long as you think.
Have you watched Mike Philips detailing video on AutoGeek?
 
@hemifsh, I have watched the videos (I have the DVD) but I know I will take longer...just my meticulous nature and I also want to compare the two different product lines. I was going to do 1/2 hood with menz and 1/2 hood with WG. I have enough samples for that. Then, buy the 160z bottles.
 
You do know that Wolfgang products are made by Menz. In fact most are exactly the same minus the color. Seems like a waste to test the same products.
 
You do know that Wolfgang products are made by Menz. In fact most are exactly the same minus the color. Seems like a waste to test the same products.

I know WG is made by Menz, but I thought there some difference is how easy they are to work.
 
Just look at it this way. You have a good supply of top notch products. Enjoy them
 
You do know that Wolfgang products are made by Menz. In fact most are exactly the same minus the color. Seems like a waste to test the same products.

Sorry, the only thing that Menzerna makes for Wolfgang are their polishes. The rest of the Wolfgang line is made by PBMG.

Nick@AutoGeek can confirm this.
 
Tenblade, that approach has worked wonders for me on my wife's car. It seems it is never in the garage long enough for me to do the entire process anyway. I might get the roof and hood done when the door opens and i hear "hey, can i run over to so and so"!

I have a premixed bucket of ONR, pick up the next section later that day or even the next weekend and just plug away. I learned after the first few "interruptions" to section off panels to completion...i.e. from cut, buff, polish to LSP before moving on to the next section. At least i know what the test area told me and only have to do that once. And i will admit to a lack of memory sometimes as to where i exactly finished off last time. I now enter it in my iPad.

I just hate taking fresh tape off that next section i thought i'd have time for!
 
Update:
I've started the process. I washed and clayed the car. Then used OPT Hyperpolish to correct the hood/roof and trunk. Then, I sealed the whole car with BF wet diamond and midnight sun spray wax. This weekend, plan to do fenders, doors and rear. So, can I do a rinseless wash i.e. ONR? Do I need to strip old LSP?
 
Update:
I've started the process. I washed and clayed the car. Then used OPT Hyperpolish to correct the hood/roof and trunk. Then, I sealed the whole car with BF wet diamond and midnight sun spray wax. This weekend, plan to do fenders, doors and rear. So, can I do a rinseless wash i.e. ONR? Do I need to strip old LSP?

yeah just rinseless, clay/decon if you need to and correct. no need to strip LSP if you are going to correct - that will remove it.
 
Yes, i agree with builthatch in that i would simply wash it and then continue your correction efforts. That will remove any LSP thats left. The only thing i might have considered is not applying LSP to the entire vehicle...i would probably just lay some down on the corrected portions. That's just my take on what i would do and is only from saving time, product and $. By all means, if you are more comfortable having some protection on it for the time it will take you to return to those uncorrected sections have at it. I would also be surprised if you have to decontaminate again so soon but a quick baggie test can answer that.

What pad are you using with the OPT Hyper Polish?
 
now I feel like an idiot... LOL. Well, I've got some other samples to try. Those were just my top two.

Dont feel bad just learn from your mistakes and try not to repeat

Because of my limitations physically I have to piecemeal my two vehicle's when polishing I actually write down what I do so I can keep track of what I've done . If im ever fortunate to get a full correction job I will tell the customer that I need their car longer.
 
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