Pinnacle Black Label Questions?

Hello
I am new to AutoGeek forum & need help suggestions for buying products for my car ....I have a Mercedes Benz C200 Kompressor 2009 in TANZANITE BLUE color .
I was about to order Pinnacle products as mentioned below but after seeing the Pinnacle NEW arrival of Black Label I am confused & cant decided which is the best products
I was about to order .
1).Iron X Remover .
2).Pinnacle Body Work Shampoo.
3).Pinnacle Paint Work Cleansing Lotion .
4).Pinnacle Advance Swirl Remover.
5).Pinnacle Advance Finishing Polish.
6).Wolfgang High Gloss Paint Sealant.
7).Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax.

But after seeing the Pinnacle NEW Arrival Black Label I would like to use them so I need suggestions that can I replace as below
1).Iron X Remover .

2).Pinnacle Body Work Shampoo replaced by Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating Shampoo.

3).Pinnacle Paint Work Cleansing Lotion replaced by Pinnacle Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish .

4).Pinnacle Advance Swirl Remover.

5).Pinnacle Advance Finishing Polish.

6).Wolfgang High Gloss Paint Sealant replaced by Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Sealant .

7).Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating

8).Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax.

Please I need help ASAP as the VEGAS2013 20% offer is ending soon on 8th November.

Also I am buying FLEX XC3401 Polisher & Griots Garage 3 Inch Orbital Polisher .

Awaiting for the Suggestions .

I would go with the Black Label coating and all supporting products. I would go with the dedicated products vice the all in one. You don't need the finishing polish, use the Black Label cleansing polish last instead. Get the new Uber Compound as your free sample if you need a few serious scratches removed.
Just my $.02 FWIW!
 
^^ if you're doing a coating you don't need a sealant and a paste wax. Also is this your first detail ever? If so start slow, learn some basics then move to coatings. You don't want to do a crap job then coat a crap job only to rep oldish.


Yes this is my first detail ever with machine but i am expert in hand polishing due to so much interest in car detailing .
I am so much confused i want to do something very nice like you guys do in States....here we only have mothers,kangroo,Formula One,Meguairs waxes etc so i am trying to do something real good i want to get the best of my car color ..
The paint have minor light swirls & scratches ....
When i hand polish & wax the car with Mothers step 1,2,3 my color looks real good with wet look but i cant remove the swirl & scratches to get the Mirror like finish like you guys do over there .

I need someone to suggest me some good polishes & waxes for my car color which are worth of spending US$ on them because as an overseas US$ is a big amount for me ...
 
^^ if you're doing a coating you don't need a sealant and a paste wax. Also is this your first detail ever? If so start slow, learn some basics then move to coatings. You don't want to do a crap job then coat a crap job only to rep oldish.
^^ if you're doing a coating you don't need a sealant and a paste wax. Also is this your first detail ever? If so start slow, learn some basics then move to coatings. You don't want to do a crap job then coat a crap job only to rep oldish.


Yes this is my first detail ever with machine but i am expert in hand polishing due to so much interest in car detailing .
I am so much confused i want to do something very nice like you guys do in States....here we only have mothers,kangroo,Formula One,Meguairs waxes etc so i am trying to do something real good i want to get the best of my car color ..
The paint have minor light swirls & scratches ....
When i hand polish & wax the car with Mothers step 1,2,3 my color looks real good with wet look but i cant remove the swirl & scratches to get the Mirror like finish like you guys do over there .

I need someone to suggest me some good polishes & waxes for my car color which are worth of spending US$ on them because as an overseas US$ is a big amount for me ...
 
First; :welcome:to AGO! :D

Very nice ride there, nice indeed! :props:

That will be a stellar first order as well. :dblthumb2:

I see you've put the sealant and coating in your order, no problem with that, just make sure the coating goes on first. ;)

I'm leaning with Chris on this one though. Perhaps doing the first machine buffing and polishing you might want to consider going with JUST the sealant. Then drive it for a few weeks and critique your own work. Never know, you might decide you missed something and want to go back, making it 'better'. ;) You can always strip sealant, but stripping the coating will require abrasive buffing.... again.

You'd do well to go ahead and grab a 6 pack of Mequiar's spray bottles while you're at it. They come in handy for more reasons than you can imagine. While your looking at basic supplies, grab a gallon of Megs APC+. You'll use it from your garage to your basement and everywhere in between. Heck... even my daughter has some at her house she uses to clean with! :rolleyes:

Also you'll need a decent supply of pads, a dozen to start isn't out of the question. Being a new car I seriously doubt you'll need yellow, (especially with the Flex) but you will need something like 4 orange, 4 white, (if CCS 2 green) 2 blue, 2 black/gray (if flat maybe a couple of reds). While you're looking at that stuff grab another pair of the yellow applicator sponges that come with the Elite kit. BTW, the pricing on the Elite kit is schweeeeet before hand, then taking the 20% off/VEGAS2013 is even better. :)

If you really want to wax it you can, but durability is nil compared to a coating or a sealant. Although.... putting the sealant on you'd wax over it. Whereas putting the coating on, you'd seal over it. (If that makes any sense at all.)

As for shampoo down the road, I'm not sure I'll be buying into the Black Label stuff. Gallons of Hyper Wash, DG 951, and CG Honeydew sitting around here. I wouldn't think the last two would be a problem with either of the coating or the sealant as well.

Is one interior product light years better than the other? I wouldn't think so.

Oh, and didn't mention towels. Plenty of places to find nice towels out there. AG has a great selection, but you might want to look at MF Tech. Ian is a great guy and has awesome pricing! :xyxthumbs:

Again, seriously nice ride there. I used to do the exclusive towing for one of the three Atlanta MB dealers for over 10 years, back before I retired. Good thing I got to charge more for them, because the volume was half that from the Mitsubishi dealership! :laughing:

Looking forward to seeing how it comes along.



Yup. :whs:
^^ if you're doing a coating you don't need a sealant and a paste wax. Also is this your first detail ever? If so start slow, learn some basics then move to coatings. You don't want to do a crap job then coat a crap job only to rep oldish.


Yes this is my first detail ever with machine but i am expert in hand polishing due to so much interest in car detailing .
I am so much confused i want to do something very nice like you guys do in States....here we only have mothers,kangroo,Formula One,Meguairs waxes etc so i am trying to do something real good i want to get the best of my car color ..
The paint have minor light swirls & scratches ....
When i hand polish & wax the car with Mothers step 1,2,3 my color looks real good with wet look but i cant remove the swirl & scratches to get the Mirror like finish like you guys do over there .

I need someone to suggest me some good polishes & waxes for my car color which are worth of spending US$ on them because as an overseas US$ is a big amount for me ...
 
Back when I drank, I never had questions about Black Label, although I preferred Makers Mark!
(PBL).

I have a few questions regarding Pinnacle Black Label
First it appears there are four variants. 1 best for paint, one for glass and one for rims. Then there is a multi-function that works well on all three surfaces. Before G|Techniq was outed for selling C1 Crystal Lacquer as its paint, trim and rim separate products, I had no problems with three products for three separate surfaces.

Nick or someone, please explain how these products are optimized for paint, glass and rims.
What special engineering is lost in the all surface version.
Which of the four would be best for trim. I assume you are working on a trim coating too, since that was mentioned in the DP Review.
Next the Cleansing Polish is stated to be the critical step. I understand this, but would DP Cleansing Polish do the same job?

I know this is a bad time to find time to answer posts (SEMA(. So TIA!


I am interested in the Science part of this as well. Sub'd for the info.
 
Yes this is my first detail ever with machine but i am expert in hand polishing due to so much interest in car detailing .
I am so much confused i want to do something very nice like you guys do in States....here we only have mothers,kangroo,Formula One,Meguairs waxes etc so i am trying to do something real good i want to get the best of my car color ..
The paint have minor light swirls & scratches ....
When i hand polish & wax the car with Mothers step 1,2,3 my color looks real good with wet look but i cant remove the swirl & scratches to get the Mirror like finish like you guys do over there .

I need someone to suggest me some good polishes & waxes for my car color which are worth of spending US$ on them because as an overseas US$ is a big amount for me ...

If you have Meguiar's Ultimate line there, you need look no further. Ultimate Compound (UC), Ultimate Polish (UP), Ultimate Wax either liquid or paste, although I prefer the liquid (ULW) even the Ultimate Spray Wax (USW) are all very good products. The "Ultimate" wax is more of a sealant and can be topped with Meguiar's M26 yellow wax for incredible 'pop'. (M26 can also be had liquid and paste and again I prefer the liquid.)

Also you might really like topping with Meguiar's M21 2.0 sealant. Really nice sensual feel to the paint afterwards. :) As nice (to me) as Menzerna Power Lock has ever been.

I really would NOT suggest you go with something like 101 and 205 especially not 105 as it is a pain to work with when you've used it before. If you've never used it you might have nightmares getting it off your paint. :eek: Also I'm not sure you really want the additional cut that these SMAT products provide. Yes, the Ultimate line is a direct spin off from 105 and 205 but they work longer and have a bit less cut. Best of both worlds all the way around. :dblthumb2:

That not withstanding, if you are ordering from the states including a new buffer then you might as well try some of the Pinnacle line. I haven't applied all the new Black Label stuff just yet, so cannot comment. I have done my glass (after polishing with Griot's pads and DP Glass Restorer) and after curing it is very slick. ;)

You would do well to start with DAT (diminishing abrasive technology) products and work up to the SMAT stuff (small micro abrasive technology) - that doesn't break down.

Either of your original lists are a fantastic start. :props:
 
For the 980th time, wouLd anyone pretty please post some
beading and sheeting shots with the hose running! Thanks!
:Picture::buffing:
 
I have a few questions regarding Pinnacle Black Label

First it appears there are four variants.
-1 best for paint,
-one for glass
-and one for rims.
-Then there is a multi-function that works well on all three surfaces.

Nick or someone, please explain how these products are optimized for
-paint, glass and rims.

-What special engineering is lost in the all surface version.

-Which of the four would be best for trim.

I am interested in the Science part of this as well. Sub'd for the info.

^^^:whs:...Me too!!^^^

I just hope it will be more meaningful, and official, surficial-information sharing.

That would be more beneficial than being presented with some:
Abstract-simplicial-complex explanation; or:
even a tale of some simplicial-subcomplex thereof!!


tired.png


Bob
 
:bump: from me as well.
Figure the 'crew' at AG has about a million voice mails, PM's, e-mails and such to catch up on after SEMA and that'll take a couple of days.

Buuuuuuuuut.... Inquiring minds want to know. Perhaps what was the original :idea: and how did the product(s) come about?

To :poke:around and get the real empirical data is what the true Autogeekians or is that Autogeekites are wanting to know.

Maybe it's right there and nobody has found it yet, in that case :doh:. But something tells me there is much more to the "science" than anyone is saying. :dunno:
 
How does Black Label compare to Liquid glass? And can either of these products be used on plastic headlights to prevent yellowing and hazing or should I use diamonite? I just bought a silver 2013 Lincoln MKX I just want to know what are the recommended products to keep my new vehicle in top condition?
 
How does Black Label compare to Liquid glass? And can either of these products be used on plastic headlights to prevent yellowing and hazing or should I use diamonite? I just bought a silver 2013 Lincoln MKX I just want to know what are the recommended products to keep my new vehicle in top condition?

You can use the surface coating on your headlights with no issues and it will help preserve the UV coating on the headlights .

Additionally you can use the coating on the rest of the vehicle to keep your new vehicle in tip top shape.

Hope that helps! :props:
 
are towels and applicators reusable ? this stuff doesnt harden or crystalize like cquartz, right ?

btw, i used the black label surface coating today and its truly a dream to use. looks amazing and the paint is so slippery. If this coating lasts me 1 year I will be completely thrilled. its such an amazing product I could see myself only using this from now on. everything from the new line has been amazing. the only thing I did not like was the interior coating. I think wolfgang cockpit sealant just applies nicer, doesnt smell as harsh, has less gloss and and better tactile feel. but thats just me.
 
Question: Is there a benefit or drawback to adding a coat of 'nuba wax on top of the Black Diamond Paint coating?
 
can someone tell me if we can re-use the towels after using the coating ? its a simple question. anyone from AG ?
 
You can use the surface coating on your headlights with no issues and it will help preserve the UV coating on the headlights .

Additionally you can use the coating on the rest of the vehicle to keep your new vehicle in tip top shape.

Hope that helps! :props:


Evan, did someone at Autogeek give you those answers?
Just checking, as so far we've not been able to get any real answers other than marketing responses.
Theory based perhaps....
Q: What makes this stuff so good? A: It's shiny
Q: What makes it shiny? A: Special stuff.
And so on.....

Sure however, common sense tells us that a coating is a coating is a coating and if it works on the paint, it'll work on the headlights. I would caution though that UV protection is something that would have to be addressed by the manufacturer within the design of the compound itself. Remembering it is totally possible to coat paint and provide zero UV protection. Just as you can have suntan lotions with zero to maximum protection. :)



Nick,

Can you drop some science on us???

One would hope. :dunno:
 
Tony, I was going from everything I have been able to read about this coating and what can be found in the product description.
 
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