Pinnacle XMT #1 vs XMT 360?

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Doyle4281

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Hello all, I recently just received my PC 7424XP and the package included Pinnacle XMT #2 and Pinnacle XMT Carnuba Glaze with orange, white, and grey pads. After doing a little reading and watching a few videos, it appears that there may be a missing link between these products, and it is a finishing polish. According to the chart on the Autogeek site, the XMT #1 and XMT 360 have the same abrasive value, but the XMT 360 offers a sealant protection. Does anyone have any experience with the XMT line, that could comment about whether they are the same in terms of a finishing polish, and whether the sealant in the XMT 360 is worth considering a "sealing" step? Thanks everyone

Autogeek Swirl Removers & Compounds Comparison Chart
 
The XMT #1 is really a finishing polish, even though it says it's a swirl remover. It will refine the finish if you have slight swirls or micro marring from a heavy swirl remover/compound. It will get your paint to be LSP ready. I'm not 100% sure, but I think XMT #1 & 360 are the same thing, with 360 having the wax/sealant incorporated into it. As you can see on the chart, the #1 & 360 have less cut than Megs #205, which a lot people have used for many years to get their cars' paint to a near perfect finish. Just choose your pads according to the task at hand.

The 360 has proven that it can have the staying power, if all you're trying to achieve is a simple one-step. Here's a very good write up on how 360 compares to the Meguiar's equivalent: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/62798-xmt-360-vs-d151-prc.html.
 
Much appreciated response! That is exactly what I was hoping to find out. XMT 360 and XMT #1 both appear to have the same abrasive properties, with 360 seeming to have rather effective sealing capabilities. Being that I need a finishing polish after XMT #2, the 360 seems to be a good option to stick with the XMT line. Thank you

Do you think the sealing properties of the XMT 360 are as effective as a tradition sealant?
 
Hi Doyle, I've been using 360 for awhile for my one step details and like it a lot. When I first got into detailing I got a kit similar to hours but it had xmt #3, #1 and the caranuba glaze. I found those three products created a very nice finish when applied with a PC. You might be able to use the #2 as a one step correction and then go right to the LSP of your choice. If you use the #2 and find there is any micromarring or DA haze then you can certainly use the 360 as a finishing polish and sealant in one step. The 360 is advertised to have 3-4 months durability as a sealant and I've found that to be pretty accurate. So yes, you will get protection equal to a dedicated LSP sealant.

Try the #2 on the white pad first. If that doesn't get enough defects out then try it on the orange pad. If you end up going with the 360 another white pad should do the trick, and you can use the caranuba glaze AFTER the 360 if you want.

Post up some pictures of what you're working on and maybe some others can chime in. Good luck!

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I tried the #2 to get some fine swirls out and I wasn't happy. M205 did way better. I use the finishing glaze after I polish and it's awesome! It really gives the paint a good pop.
 
Thanks a lot, I think I might purchase the #3 and the 360, for heavier scratches and finishing. It sounds like the XMT line is effective so I think I will invest in the full line and see how it goes. My first vehicle will be my brothers Black 2001 Mercedes CLK430 which has quite a bit of swirling and some heavy scratches, but nothing too deep. I intend on giving it a thorough wash and clay bar, and start with the XMT #2 with the white pad, and see how it polishes out. I will likely then need to do a second step with the 360 and then go over it with a wax or Chemixal Brothers V7.

Armature question: When correcting deeper scratches, should I start with those areas with a more aggressive polish/pads, lets say XMT #3/orange pad, and then do the whole car in XMT #2/white pad, for the swirls, and then finish with the XMT 360/grey pad?

ekennett said:
Hi Doyle, I've been using 360 for awhile for my one step details and like it a lot. When I first got into detailing I got a kit similar to hours but it had xmt #3, #1 and the caranuba glaze. I found those three products created a very nice finish when applied with a PC. You might be able to use the #2 as a one step correction and then go right to the LSP of your choice. If you use the #2 and find there is any micromarring or DA haze then you can certainly use the 360 as a finishing polish and sealant in one step. The 360 is advertised to have 3-4 months durability as a sealant and I've found that to be pretty accurate. So yes, you will get protection equal to a dedicated LSP sealant.

Try the #2 on the white pad first. If that doesn't get enough defects out then try it on the orange pad. If you end up going with the 360 another white pad should do the trick, and you can use the caranuba glaze AFTER the 360 if you want.

Post up some pictures of what you're working on and maybe some others can chime in. Good luck!

Sent from my Transformer using Tapatalk 4
Click to expand...
 
Doyle4281 said:
Thanks a lot, I think I might purchase the #3 and the 360, for heavier scratches and finishing. It sounds like the XMT line is effective so I think I will invest in the full line and see how it goes. My first vehicle will be my brothers Black 2001 Mercedes CLK430 which has quite a bit of swirling and some heavy scratches, but nothing too deep. I intend on giving it a thorough wash and clay bar, and start with the XMT #2 with the white pad, and see how it polishes out. I will likely then need to do a second step with the 360 and then go over it with a wax or Chemixal Brothers V7.

Armature question: When correcting deeper scratches, should I start with those areas with a more aggressive polish/pads, lets say XMT #3/orange pad, and then do the whole car in XMT #2/white pad, for the swirls, and then finish with the XMT 360/grey pad?
Click to expand...

Yes, you will more effective if you spot compound deeper scratches first. Drag the edge of your fingernail over the scratch and if it catches the edge don't count on removing the scratch completely. Its too deep and the best you will be able to do safely is blend it. As always, do a test spot and start with the least aggressive method and only go more aggressive if that doesn't produce results.

Sent from my Transformer using AG Online
 
Excellent, I may post some results in the near future. Thanks again, you have been a huge help to me.
 
You're welcome, hope all goes well. The motto of my other hobby, home brewing, RDWHAHB. Relax, Don't Worry, Have A Homebrew (but only after you finish working on the car :-)

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