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I have one on my car and the other on my wife’s car. For application I think Mohs Evo is superior, it’s faster to do being that it gets wiped off immediately, it’s also a single layer. UK 3.0 is recommended to get 2 layers and it gives you a couple of minutes before it can be wiped off. Although that makes it take longer to apply, it’s also less rushed and stressful. Mohs Evo is slicker than UK 3.0:by itself but if you top that with Gliss or Sic, then I’d say they are the same.
Beading is superior on UK 3.0. It also darkens the paint and gives it a richer look compared to Mohs.
So which would I use again? That all depends on how fast do I need it done. If I have the time, I’ll pick the CarPro option. If I want it done fast, Mohs Evo is pretty good.
Interesting that you mentioned that 3.0 darkens the paint more than MOHS....on Esoteric's comparison between Pure EVO and MOHS EVO, they recommend Pure for the darkening effect. My Tundra that has MOHS on it.....is a darker color...and the results bear that out.
Darkening effect…. What does that do, if anything on white?
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Don't you know..it darkens white.![]()
Darkening effect…. What does that do, if anything on white?
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Darkening effect…. What does that do, if anything on white?
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Any advice would be appreciated.
It seems like the latest CQuartz goes on much easier than I remember. Maybe not as thick/durable as before??
Can anyone compare Gyeon MOHS with C Quartz UK?
Thanks.
Any advice would be appreciated.
It seems like the latest CQuartz goes on much easier than I remember. Maybe not as thick/durable as before??
Can anyone compare Gyeon MOHS with C Quartz UK?
Thanks.
This is like asking which is better, a Porsche or Ferrari, as they are both great. There will be more information/videos about UK 3.0 since it has been out several years longer. And just because MOHS is newer, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better as UK 3.0 was the primary product/reason Gyeon redesigned they’re coatings.
Darkening effect…. What does that do, if anything on white?
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I'm a few weeks away from being able to do a first hand comparison. I've got a bottle of Mohs EVO sitting in my garage waiting for the weather to warm up a bit more. It will be going on our Pearl White Acura.
As for CQUK 3.0, I really like the coating. v 2.0 and now 3.0 are my go-to coatings when I recommend something or when I need to use something I'm familiar with, like doing someone else's car. I've seen 3+ years of durability on daily drivers with only one layer. Water beading/sheeting are really good, but I have noticed that Gyeon products like CanCoat and Pure EVO are a bit better in this department.
My only complaint with CQUK 3.0, and Pure EVO to a lesser extent, is the really long flash times. It actually slows me down. I'll have an entire side of a vehicle coated and I'm standing around waiting for the coating to flash. In sub-60F weather it takes a REALLY long time to flash. CQUK 2.0 and the old CQ Ti coatings flashed quicker and made for a better work flow.
The darkening question is interesting. On a black car or gray metallic car I could clearly see CQUK darkening the paint. I've used both CQUK and Pure EVO on bright blue cars (one a Charger Scat Pack and my BRZ) and didn't notice it much. On my BRZ Pure EVO did seem to add a more candy-coated or glass-dipped effect than CQUK. I applied CQUK to a friends Alpine White BMW 3-series and it looked pretty amazing...for white.
Gyeon stated that Pure can be wiped off around the 2-3 minute time frame without any issues as it bonds immediately.
With UK3.0, does it have to flash to be ready to remove? Meaning, if it’s not flashing, wait until it does?
Yes…. You wait for it to rainbow. I waited till 30seconds after it rainbow’d to remove.
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I’ve run into the issue where the rainbow effect isn’t so evident with D.Lux. Sometimes I’ll get it, and then on another part of the wheel I won’t. Perhaps too much product? Conditions weren’t optimal, 80 and plenty humid.