Please critique my method

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Autogk

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I will be doing a full detail soon, and want the final step to be a "coating" instead of the sealant I usually use. Can someone please critique my process (the following products are what I already own, with the exception of Carpro Eraser and Pinnacle Coating)?

-I currently only have Meg's wash with wax (can't use this bc I need to strip the surface), and pepboys soap- will this cheap soap strip off my sealant?
-Clay
-Meg's Ult Compound with my DA for swirl removal
-Carpro eraser to prep surface
-Piinacle Black Label Surface Coating

Would I need to use a polish in between Ult Compound and Carpro eraser? I hear sometimes the paint dulls after using compound.

Thanks!
 
It will vary from car to car ive finished with ultimate compound before all depends on the paint pad choice speed. No way to know for sure until you do a test spot
 
If it was me, I'd have a few polishes on hand and polishing pads, as you won't know if UC will leave your paint LSP ready or not until you try.

I'd also consider looking into the Pinnacle Coating Prep polish. Eraser may be OK, but without testing who really knows? I'd want to do it once and do it right. You have already invested your time and money in the correction and coating product/process - so maybe look into the designed prep product?
 
swanicyouth said:
If it was me, I'd have a few polishes on hand and polishing pads, as you won't know if UC will leave your paint LSP ready or not until you try.

I'd also consider looking into the Pinnacle Coating Prep polish. Eraser may be OK, but without testing who really knows? I'd want to do it once and do it right. You have already invested your time and money in the correction and coating product/process - so maybe look into the designed prep product?
Click to expand...

:iagree:

What year make and model vehicle?

I have used the PBL and you will want to use the prep polish (its easy to use)

At least get yourself the Ultimate polish. You will want the paint to look its best and you won't want to leave any hazing behind either.
 
OP,

Until you do your test spots, that is SPOTS, as in more than one... you are just not going to know when the paint is LSP ready.

Micromarring is easily done, with the wrong pad, wrong speed, on the wrong paint. Even if you have the right product! :rolleyes: Not enough correction is another matter you'll need to address. Again... that's in the test spots.

Do your testing for how you want to get the compounding done. Do NOT finish them all down right away, just work on the compounding stage. Tape the hood off into say 6 areas. Do 3, something like: white pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then orange pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then say, orange pad - speed 5.5 - 4 passes - heavy pressure - medium speed. So on and so on. The trick (in the beginning) is to only do the same amount of passes, just changing up your compounding product, or your pad, or your speed. Because you WANT TO KNOW what just that amount of passes will do on JUST THAT PAINT. You can always go back and do more passes! :)

Once you get the compounding done where you like it, THEN you start polishing. Take the next 3 spots, compound them all the same (the process you worked out in the first spots you did) then experiment on how the polishing process works for you.

I agree to get the paint cleansing polish, but KEEP the Eraser! PBL cleansing polish works, but is a royal pain to remove completely if you let it dry just a little bit. Wipe it with one hand and remove it with the other!!!!!!! I cannot stress that enough!!! When we're doing it as a team, one will apply and the other will be right there removing it. Let it dry and it'll stick like cement! :eek: If it doesn't want to come off, put more on, wipe it GENTLY or you're going to end up with RIDS. Use Eraser to clean it up a bit if you need it.


Personally.... I can't stand to, and WILL NOT apply a coating with a round foam applicator. One, it soaks up TONS of product. Two it'll then apply product unevenly. Three, see One and Two.

Get the suede applicator cloths from Car Pro. Nothing applies coatings like those things do, NOTHING! Use um' and throw um' away. :dblthumb2: One note, they'll sell you a 10 pack of 4"x4" ones for $12.99 but you can buy 10 16"x16" ones for $19.99 then take some pinking shears (they cut a zig zag pattern) and cut ONE HUNDRED & SIXTY 4" cloths from that package. :D Cut some down to 8" squares and use them for glass, cut more down to 4" square for coatings.

Coatings are tricky to install, although not impossible. But the real trick is the prep. If I were new at polishing paint.... I'd get that down right. Put some sealant on it and it'll last months. Then you can always go back and polish it more, have fun with it, seal it again.
Polish it again, and again for that matter to where it's 100% ready for a coating.
 
cardaddy said:
OP,

Until you do your test spots, that is SPOTS, as in more than one... you are just not going to know when the paint is LSP ready.

Micromarring is easily done, with the wrong pad, wrong speed, on the wrong paint. Even if you have the right product! :rolleyes: Not enough correction is another matter you'll need to address. Again... that's in the test spots.

Do your testing for how you want to get the compounding done. Do NOT finish them all down right away, just work on the compounding stage. Tape the hood off into say 6 areas. Do 3, something like: white pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then orange pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then say, orange pad - speed 5.5 - 4 passes - heavy pressure - medium speed. So on and so on. The trick (in the beginning) is to only do the same amount of passes, just changing up your compounding product, or your pad, or your speed. Because you WANT TO KNOW what just that amount of passes will do on JUST THAT PAINT. You can always go back and do more passes! :)

Once you get the compounding done where you like it, THEN you start polishing. Take the next 3 spots, compound them all the same (the process you worked out in the first spots you did) then experiment on how the polishing process works for you.

I agree to get the paint cleansing polish, but KEEP the Eraser! PBL cleansing polish works, but is a royal pain to remove completely if you let it dry just a little bit. Wipe it with one hand and remove it with the other!!!!!!! I cannot stress that enough!!! When we're doing it as a team, one will apply and the other will be right there removing it. Let it dry and it'll stick like cement! :eek: If it doesn't want to come off, put more on, wipe it GENTLY or you're going to end up with RIDS. Use Eraser to clean it up a bit if you need it.


Personally.... I can't stand to, and WILL NOT apply a coating with a round foam applicator. One, it soaks up TONS of product. Two it'll then apply product unevenly. Three, see One and Two.

Get the suede applicator cloths from Car Pro. Nothing applies coatings like those things do, NOTHING! Use um' and throw um' away. :dblthumb2: One note, they'll sell you a 10 pack of 4"x4" ones for $12.99 but you can buy 10 16"x16" ones for $19.99 then take some pinking shears (they cut a zig zag pattern) and cut ONE HUNDRED & SIXTY 4" cloths from that package. :D Cut some down to 8" squares and use them for glass, cut more down to 4" square for coatings.

Coatings are tricky to install, although not impossible. But the real trick is the prep. If I were new at polishing paint.... I'd get that down right. Put some sealant on it and it'll last months. Then you can always go back and polish it more, have fun with it, seal it again.
Polish it again, and again for that matter to where it's 100% ready for a coating.
Click to expand...

Thanks!
I've been doing more research and reading all the helpful comments here.
Can I wash and do a paint correction without claying first? Reason I ask is this: I have limited use to a friends garage. So I want to experiment with the paint correction as stated above, and when I get it to where I want.....I would pick a day where all I would have to do is wash, clay, LSP/coating prep polish, apply coating (leaning towars OptiCoat 2.0 now).
 
Autogk said:
Thanks!
I've been doing more research and reading all the helpful comments here.
Can I wash and do a paint correction without claying first? Reason I ask is this: I have limited use to a friends garage. So I want to experiment with the paint correction as stated above, and when I get it to where I want.....I would pick a day where all I would have to do is wash, clay, LSP/coating prep polish, apply coating (leaning towars OptiCoat 2.0 now).
Click to expand...

NO!

You'll need to clay. Just think of all the embedded contaminates that are in the paint, dirt, gunk, grime, even rail dust. Not removing that first means you're just spinning it around in your paint with your pads (and product).

What you can do is the wash, clay say the hood and front fenders and do all your testing then. Once you get your test done, figure out the process, work it from start to finish. Do the compounding, then the polishing, then the LSP.

It's fine to do part of a vehicle at a time, Mike Phillips has talked about this method as well. Either way you'll be working to perfect your process. :)
 
cardaddy said:
NO!

You'll need to clay. Just think of all the embedded contaminates that are in the paint, dirt, gunk, grime, even rail dust. Not removing that first means you're just spinning it around in your paint with your pads (and product).

What you can do is the wash, clay say the hood and front fenders and do all your testing then. Once you get your test done, figure out the process, work it from start to finish. Do the compounding, then the polishing, then the LSP.

It's fine to do part of a vehicle at a time, Mike Phillips has talked about this method as well. Either way you'll be working to perfect your process. :)
Click to expand...
Makes sense. I think I'll do that, especially since I have a full size truck. It'll allow me to perfect my coating applying skills too. If I don't like the way a panel came out, I know what to do on the next panel and won't have to compound the entire vehicle covered in Opticoat, just one panel.
Think it's safe to do this outdoors? I kind of want to knock out 1 panel every other day when I get home from work.
 
Autogk said:
Makes sense. I think I'll do that, especially since I have a full size truck. It'll allow me to perfect my coating applying skills too. If I don't like the way a panel came out, I know what to do on the next panel and won't have to compound the entire vehicle covered in Opticoat, just one panel.
Think it's safe to do this outdoors? I kind of want to knock out 1 panel every other day when I get home from work.
Click to expand...

I don't see why not. ;)

Be careful its not windy and you don't get any dust blowing up on it.

We're getting away from pollen season now so at least it's getting safer to do it outside.

I'll work in the garage whenever I can, but even then you'll end up with the doors open some days. OTOH, when its 95° in the shade, I'll keep the garage closed, crank up the AC and open the door to the kitchen using floor fans to pump cool air out there. So far CarMomma hasn't killed me for thst one. (Besides, we take "office use of the home" on the taxes so it pays off in the end.) :)




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
cardaddy said:
I don't see why not. ;)

Be careful its not windy and you don't get any dust blowing up on it.

We're getting away from pollen season now so at least it's getting safer to do it outside.

I'll work in the garage whenever I can, but even then you'll end up with the doors open some days. OTOH, when its 95° in the shade, I'll keep the garage closed, crank up the AC and open the door to the kitchen using floor fans to pump cool air out there. So far CarMomma hasn't killed me for thst one. (Besides, we take "office use of the home" on the taxes so it pays off in the end.) :)




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with "office use."
So I refined my method, here goes:
-Clean 1 panel with ONR wash and shine.
-Clay with ONR
-Meg's ult liquid compound with my Meg's DAPS (really want a PC, but he DAPS seems capable enough). I'll try a yellow pad first and if not enough correction, I'll go to the purple pad.
-when I'm satisfied I will polish with Detailers coating prep polish
-apply OC 2.0!
 
Autogk said:
Nothing wrong with "office use."
So I refined my method, here goes:
-Clean 1 panel with ONR wash and shine.
-Clay with ONR
-Meg's ult liquid compound with my Meg's DAPS (really want a PC, but he DAPS seems capable enough). I'll try a yellow pad first and if not enough correction, I'll go to the purple pad.
-when I'm satisfied I will polish with Detailers coating prep polish
-apply OC 2.0!
Click to expand...

A few pieces of advice I got from my "critique thread:"

-Detailing spray is better than soap/water for claying

-Test spots!- Start with least invasive method and see if you get results

-You may not even need to use compound depending on how bad your paint is. Start with the polish when testing and see if it's satisfactory. No need to take off clear with compound if you dont have to!

FYI: I'm no expert! These were just some pieces of advice from my "So let me get this straight..." thread
 
Thanks. I just realized I need one more thing cleared up. Since I will be doing one panel at a time, How will I keep my opticoat applicators fresh? I saw a video where a guy put a rubber glove over the yellow foam applicator and then wrapped it with a blue shop towel to apply the coating, this way the yellow foam pad cannot absorb any coating. Is it advisable to do this, but with a microsuede towel?
 
Autogk said:
Thanks. I just realized I need one more thing cleared up. Since I will be doing one panel at a time, How will I keep my opticoat applicators fresh? I saw a video where a guy put a rubber glove over the yellow foam applicator and then wrapped it with a blue shop towel to apply the coating, this way the yellow foam pad cannot absorb any coating. Is it advisable to do this, but with a microsuede towel?
Click to expand...

Get the CQ foam block applicator and 10 MF suede cloths pack as suggested by cardaddy so even if you do 1 panel/day and through the cloth away, you'll still have enough cloths for the remaining panels..
 
Sherif said:
Get the CQ foam block applicator and 10 MF suede cloths pack as suggested by cardaddy so even if you do 1 panel/day and through the cloth away, you'll still have enough cloths for the remaining panels..
Click to expand...

I agree!

Except get the 10 pack @ $19.99. Those are 16" square, and ONE CLOTH makes 16 - 4" square cloths. You take the cost per cloth down from $1.29 to 12.5 cents!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online
 
cardaddy said:
I agree!

Except get the 10 pack @ $19.99. Those are 16" square, and ONE CLOTH makes 16 - 4" square cloths. You take the cost per cloth down from $1.29 to 12.5 cents!


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Couldn't find that size for some reason so I ordered a 10 pack of 10x10's
 
cardaddy said:
Here they are:
CarPro Suede Microfiber Cloths, suede microfibre cloths, microfiber towels, cquartz microfiber

Just get a foam block to wrap your applicator around. I have the CarPro applicator, but we also have some fine nail blocks from Mary Kay that are basically the same size and work just great. :)
Click to expand...

I love the search feature in these forums. I read a post by cardaddy in another thread somewhere mentioning this method and was pretty easily able to not only find all of this info, but a link to the 16"x16" applicator cloths. I'm doing more and more coatings and hate throwing away things that I spend a decent amount on, so this method will work perfectly and it sounds like it's also one of the best methods for applying coatings. It's been added to my ever-growing Black Friday order :xyxthumbs:
 
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