Please help translate my old detailing product list to new/better stuff!

[DaveT435]

I didn't read every post. What model PC are you using? The PC's are a little light on power for 6" or larger pads.

 

[onlyincali]

The first random orbit model. From roughly 6 years ago.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Sorry I'm late to the party. What you were using was good for the day, but a lot has changed in the last 10 years.

For your old PC, I have found the Meguiar's microfiber system works great. Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System, paint polishing system, car polish, car detailing system, compounding system, remove scratches I've found the D300/301 combo to work well and it's so easy, they also came out with a D302 polish this year. You can also use something like the Optimum spray polishes with the microfiber pads:

Optimum Hyper Compound Spray
Optimum Hyper Polish Spray, Optimum spray polish, hyper spray polish, Optimum car polishes

Polishes have changed a lot--they cut harder, finish better, and stain trim less.

The other thing that is a big change is the WOWA (Wipe On, Walk Away) sealants and similar interior products. Sealants like Ultima Paint Guard Plus (UPGP), Optimum Opti-Seal, and the Blackfire and Wolfgang WOWA's can be used on any surface (paint, trim, glass, chrome), and you just can't get any easier than that.

The similar interior products Ultima Interior Guard Plus (UIGP) and Wolfgang Cockpit Trim Sealant will protect your interior without any greasy, slippery feel, and won't contribute any "vinyl fog" to your windows.

About your wash, as you may know Meg's 00 has been discontinued. They still make the #62, which is similar. Others have pointed you to some good washes.

If I was "starting over", I would go with some MF pads, the Meg's or Optimum polishes, and WOWA interior and exterior products. The results you will get will blow you away and be so much faster/easier than your old regimen.

 

[onlyincali]

Thanks for such a thorough reply and for the links!

A couple people suggested the M105 and M205 with the new M21 sealant. Would you say that stuff is also somewhat outdated and harder to use when compared to the stuff you suggested?
How about the Aerospace 303 interior. Also outdated?
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! Looks like I may have to totally start fresh (which isn't a bad thing!).

 

[Setec Astronomy]

M105/205 is a good combo, 105 dusts a lot for some people and 205 is a bit oily. I have only used your vintage M21, but I presume it still stains trim, etc.

The Meg's MF DA system works very well and is super easy (it was designed for high-volume detail shops with "newbie" employees). One criticism was the finishing wax has some "wax" in it, while some users wanted to use their own "wax", so they came out with the D302 polish this year (which I haven't used). It's also best to have a small air compressor to fluff up the fibers on the pads.

Everybody has their own preferences which is why you are getting a lot of answers. What I've suggested will work well with your old machine and be easy to use (whether you use the Meg's or Optimum Polishes), but of course there are other ways to skin the cat.

As far as the 303 for the interior, PDMS dressings like that are surely still in use and are fine, it's just that they can be greasy if you use too much, and as I said, contribute to fogging the windows in the hot summer sun. The UIGP and WCTD kind of dry like a WOWA sealant, so they are more stable.

 

[cardaddy]

Thanks for such a thorough reply and for the links!

A couple people suggested the M105 and M205 with the new M21 sealant. Would you say that stuff is also somewhat outdated and harder to use when compared to the stuff you suggested?
How about the Aerospace 303 interior. Also outdated?
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge! Looks like I may have to totally start fresh (which isn't a bad thing!).

I wouldn't say 105/205 is out of date, just not as new as D300/301/302. There is no doubt as to the ability of 105/205 to get the job done, and done well!

D300 is easier to work with for a compound however. But it doesn't cut as hard as 105, (at least not with a foam pad). You can used D300 (and the entire series lineup) with a foam pad if you don['t have an air compressor. What you MUST do though is use air when working with microfiber pads.

This is where working with foam is "easier". Foam pads, when kept clean using a brush, spur, "cleaning on the fly" can be used anywhere without worry. Microfiber pads however will require air, ALWAYS. Try to use them without air cleaning and they'll matt down, fill up, and micro-mar the living heck out of your paint.

Problem is, if you don't know what you're looking at, you might not even know what micro-marring is.

 

[davey g-force]

I'm sure Meguiars said that using a pad brush on MF pads is fine in the absence of compressed air.

They continually stress to clean them often, but don't say it MUST be with air.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm sure Meguiars said that using a pad brush on MF pads is fine in the absence of compressed air. They continually stress to clean them often, but don't say it MUST be with air.

Yeah, but air is the easiest. You only need a cheap little compressor. It is a nuisance though...I wind up leaving the compressor in one place...then you walk over from the other side of the car and the cord on the polisher doesn't reach...

The UIGP and WCTD kind of dry like a WOWA sealant

Sheesh, I got the name wrong on the Wolfgang product, it's Cockpit Trim Sealant (WCTS).

 

[cardaddy]

I'm sure Meguiars said that using a pad brush on MF pads is fine in the absence of compressed air.

They continually stress to clean them often, but don't say it MUST be with air.

But if you've attended any of the training courses (with them or Mike Phillips) it's very clear that AIR is the way to go.

The problem with MF pads is they hold on to a TON of product, and a TON of abraded paint, with spent product, and product that encapsulating spent paint. Having just a brush, and/or towel will NEVER remove all that gunk that is *deeply* embedded into the MF pad itself.

All that product does nothing but severely matt down the pad and causes micro-marring something terrible. I actually had an Atlanta detailer ask me last summer to do a black Porsche with MF pads and did not leave any air for me to work with. (Well for that matter he didn't leave any tape, spray bottles, towels, you name it.) When I made it clear that the pads were causing more damage than good, the switch was made to foam pads.

You can clean MF pads with a brush and towel for 10 minutes. Then pick up an air gun and spin the pad THE VERY FIRST TIME, and you'll throw spent product out all over the place!

Another thing that air allows is cleaning the pad in both directions, inside to out, outside to in, clockwise and counterclockwise. This will not only make the pad very clean, but fluff the fibers back up and allow them to have maximum effect in both cutting as well as pulling new (spent) product deep into the weave.

That just - can - not - happen - without air. (Not to mention the cooling effect that air has on the cleaning process. Remembering that HEAT is the bane of microfiber pads everywhere, since their invention.

 

[davey g-force]

Thanks for the info.

I am not questioning your detailing knowledge or judgement in any way, however I have corrected a handful of cars with MF pads now, cleaning them frequently with a pad brush and have not had any issues with micro marring.

Perhaps it's down to the type of paint / which compound etc..

 

[onlyincali]

Thank you guys very much for the replies! I'm listening, and listening carefully.

I have an air compressor that I can use but it sounds like the MF pads may be easier to screw up than the old school foam. Or am I being overly worrisome? Does the faster cut make up for the hassle of frequent cleaning/blowing out? Does blowing the MF pads out spray material all over the place too?

I don't like the idea of the new megs product having wax built in....Looks like I can finish with any sealant if I use the D302 though. Correct? I prefer using a synthetic sealant so I don't have to re-wax as frequently. Or am I stuck in the old ages on this too!?

 

[onlyincali]

Oops. In addition to the above....

How many of each pad do you use on a single vehicle? I was using 2 pads for each step, but I'm reading some guys use up to 6-8 pads for EACH STEP. Is this the norm?

And how about black trim? What can I replace my back to black with?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I have an air compressor that I can use but it sounds like the MF pads may be easier to screw up than the old school foam. Or am I being overly worrisome? Does the faster cut make up for the hassle of frequent cleaning/blowing out? Does blowing the MF pads out spray material all over the place too?

I don't know if "faster cut" is really the reason to use the MF pads (for you). The older, less powerful PC's are a good combo with the MF system (IMO). Yes, some dust comes out of the pads when you blow them...not really any different than if you brushed a foam pad.

I don't like the idea of the new megs product having wax built in....Looks like I can finish with any sealant if I use the D302 though. Correct? I prefer using a synthetic sealant so I don't have to re-wax as frequently. Or am I stuck in the old ages on this too!?

The D301 is a really nice product--the "wax" doesn't last long. I would just top it with whatever you're going to use a week or two after. A lot of members are going to balk at that and tell you that you have to strip it. I can't vouch for the D302 as I haven't used it, and I don't think I've seen any posts about anyone who has.

How many of each pad do you use on a single vehicle? I was using 2 pads for each step, but I'm reading some guys use up to 6-8 pads for EACH STEP. Is this the norm?

That's 6-8 pads if you're not going to clean on the fly, which you have to do with the MF pads. 6-8 is a lot. For foam you should be able to get by with 4 without any problem (maybe less), and you can get by with 2 MF, but more is always better, I would have 4 MF just in case. People just have different practices and tolerances for gunky pads. It also depends how bad the car is and how much polishing you are doing to it.

And how about black trim? What can I replace my back to black with?

Is the trim faded? If it's new and you're going with WOWA sealants, you can just use that on them. If they are a little faded, then products like Ultima Tire and Trim Guard (UTTG) or Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant (WETS) are great, they are also like the WOWA LSP's or interior products, they will do some darkening and last a long time.

IF the trim is badly faded, you can use a trim restorer, the favorite seems to be CarPro DLux, this is a permanent or semi-permanent fix. Also, some members have used the new Mother's Heavy Duty Trim Cleaner, which they report cleans faded trim back to new. The idea is after that you would dress it to protect it, but some users said it looked so good after cleaning that they just left it.

 

[onlyincali]

Thank you SO MUCH to take the time to write such a complete response. Thanks a bunch! Ordering fun stuff now!