Polish haze, hard to remove?

D

dizzyscure1

New member
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Ok, today was my first day testing out the waters on moms 2010 jeep wranglers hood LOL!

~Flex 3401
~LC Hybrid Orange & White pad
~Wolfgang TSW & FG
~75 degrees & 15-20mph constant wind

All day i was fighting this Haze. After i would finish my 5-6 passes with either TSW or FG i would always encounter them both hazing up and becoming difficult to remove, i had to really work to get rid of the Haze using the MF towels, seemed way harder than all the videos ive seen on you tube so im curious what am i doing wrong?? I would imediatly wipe the haze off within 5-8 seconds from putting down the Flex, is the wind drying the polish out that fast? <Its a covered garage open on 3 sides with the wind blowing thru :( Thanks,
 
dizzyscure1 said:
Ok, today was my first day testing out the waters on moms 2010 jeep wranglers hood LOL!

~Flex 3401
~LC Hybrid Orange & White pad
~Wolfgang TSW & FG
~75 degrees & 15-20mph constant wind

All day i was fighting this Haze. After i would finish my 5-6 passes with either TSW or FG i would always encounter them both hazing up and becoming difficult to remove, i had to really work to get rid of the Haze using the MF towels, seemed way harder than all the videos ive seen on you tube so im curious what am i doing wrong?? I would imediatly wipe the haze off within 5-8 seconds from putting down the Flex, is the wind drying the polish out that fast? <Its a covered garage open on 3 sides with the wind blowing thru :( Thanks,
Click to expand...




Try to use more polish, or do less passes. You are overworking the polish.
 
Are you talking about the polishing oils that are left on the surface of the paint after you polish a section?

If yes....try flipping your towel a lot more often

Especially with WGFG
 
ViGi said:
Try to use more polish, or do less passes. You are overworking the polish.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, will try this then. Yeah come to think about it i was doing maybe 24+x24+" areas. Kept thinking I was working larger than i needed.
 
Or use eraser from CarPro will do the job for sure!!! if oils from the polish is what is causing the haze.
 
allenk4 said:
Are you talking about the polishing oils that are left on the surface of the paint after you polish a section?

If yes....try flipping your towel a lot more often

Especially with WGFG
Click to expand...

Yeah, whatever is left after my passes if its the oil then yes.
 
If this was your first time polishing, I would bet you were using too much product.
 
either you are using too much product or... you havent broken down the product. In other words you havent worked the product long enough.

either you passes are too quick or you used too much product when you prime it.

either way use IPA or CarPro Eraser would do the job removing the oils.
 
I have used both of these products extensively

5-6 passes is enough to break them down, but that has nothing to do with the polishing lubricants/oils left behind

Especially with the the WGFG, just use more towels and flip them often. I try to use 4 sides of a 16"x16" MF to wipe off each 24"x24" section

In reality, if you keep it in the Family by using WGDG Paint Sealant ss your LSP, you don't technically have to remove 100% of the WGFG oils

On you Test Spot you should use Eraser or 15% IPA wipe to make sure you are getting the results you think you are

The oiliness if these very fine abrasive polishes allow for longer working times, it's just a trade-off in my opinion
 
Go read this thread that Mike/SMACK put up a while back.

My technique concerning the 3401, Menzerna products, and Hybrid pads

Also this one:
Test Spot vs Working Area - Using a Flex 3401

And this is an oldie but goodie.
How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher

Doesn't have to be the Flex either. ;)

BTW, I don't think your area is too large either. 24"x24" is as big as I'd go though. I generally teach other to "keep your hands within your shoulders" which in an area that size, (with the reach of the machine) is easily doable. ;)

The key with Menz (and by extension WG) products is (after figuring out how much product to prime a specific pad with a specific product with) is working them through the "cycle".

In fact, it's not hard to start with a heavy cut pad and start breaking down the product, then finish with a finer finishing pad (that's already been primed, used, AND cleaned on the fly) for a quick way to do an AIO as sort of a 1.5 step process instead of a complete 2 step. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top