Polish Off Ceramic Coating

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rover137

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I recently applied a coating which didn’t turn out too well. Some of you have offered up advice and tried to help - thank you!

I might have a couple days spare over the long weekend coming up and am considering going again. One of the positives is that I wouldn’t need to do a decon as I did a pretty thorough decon 2 weeks ago before putting on the first coating. This would also be contingent on being able to have another product sent and arrive in the next 5 days as well. The new coating I am thinking about is Gyeon Pure.

I have two questions:

1. If I recoated everywhere but the roof, would this stand out and be obvious? I ask this as a) I want to save time and b) as far as I can tell the roof looks ok. It might not, but I cannot notice from all the checks I’ve done so if I can’t see any issues then that is good enough for me.

2. What is the quickest way to remove the coating? Obviously polishing. But, does anyone have any advice which could speed the process up? The car doesn’t need to be corrected or anything like that as it was done 2 weeks. Just need to remove it so a new one can be applied.

I have Orange and Black SDOs and Scholl S40, S30 and S20. I’m quite competent with S30 so that will be the preference. However, I’m not
opposed to using Gyeon’s primer
polish If this could somehow save me some time (not in terms of a panel wipe down but in removing the coating).

I obviously don’t want to compromise the current finish in terms of gloss and clarity that I achieved 2 weeks ago.

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1. Roof should be fine. Only you’d notice a difference anyway so if it isn’t bothering you, I say let it go.

2. Polishing and even a mild polish should do it. And you should only do a mild polish to save clear coat.

3. You could use a so-called cleaner polish, which don’t contain abrasives but with what you have, I’d grab the black SDO pads and Scholl S40 and do a few passes to remove the coating. You’ll be removing the coating and jeweling the paint (high polish). There is the possibility that the S40/black pad combo may not be aggressive enough so feel the paint and you should notice a difference between squeaky clean paint and coated paint. Start black/S40 and move to orange/S40 if you have to but one of those two should do the trick.

As for coating, another option is Gyeon CanCoat Evo, which is a wipe on, wipe off coating lite that should (easily) last a year outdoors if washed carefully.
 
I'm confused, if you polished 2 weeks ago, what coating are you trying to remove? The polishing should have removed the coating. Just do a panel wipe to remove the polishing oils and apply the new coating.
 
Rsurfer said:
I'm confused, if you polished 2 weeks ago, what coating are you trying to remove? The polishing should have removed the coating. Just do a panel wipe to remove the polishing oils and apply the new coating.
Click to expand...

I polished 2 weeks ago and then coated. That coating has many issues so I want to polish it off and recoat.


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I'm no expert but I've read enough to be dangerous...

1. Recoating everywhere but the roof won't make the roof look any different, as coatings are optically clear. I wanted to coat the cruise control radar emblem on my wife's CUV but never got around to it. I was reluctant to do so at first because I didn't want the coating to interfere with the radar, but I'm pretty sure it's safe...unless someone can set me straight!

2. I believe a regular polish is enough to get rid of an existing coating. The black SDO I believe will not have enough bite, so orange is the better bet.

I will be polishing my existing coating off sooner than later. It's about 1.5 years old at this point but it really hasn't degraded much all. I've been working from home for 2 years now and have saved about 26k commuting miles (WOW!!) so that certainly helps LOL

I have a white car and haven't washed it ALL since the 1st week of December, and it looks CLEAN. It's astonishing.
 
dgage said:
1. Roof should be fine. Only you’d notice a difference anyway so if it isn’t bothering you, I say let it go.

2. Polishing and even a mild polish should do it. And you should only do a mild polish to save clear coat.

3. You could use a so-called cleaner polish, which don’t contain abrasives but with what you have, I’d grab the black SDO pads and Scholl S40 and do a few passes to remove the coating. You’ll be removing the coating and jeweling the paint (high polish). There is the possibility that the S40/black pad combo may not be aggressive enough so feel the paint and you should notice a difference between squeaky clean paint and coated paint. Start black/S40 and move to orange/S40 if you have to but one of those two should do the trick.

As for coating, another option is Gyeon CanCoat Evo, which is a wipe on, wipe off coating lite that should (easily) last a year outdoors if washed carefully.
Click to expand...




1. I am leaning towards letting it go.

2. I would only use a finishing polish at most. I’m just trying to save time - it took me 10+ hrs to polish previously using S30 and an Orange SDO.

3. I was thinking Orange/S30 as that’s a pretty light combo but maybe needed to remove the fresh coating? I just don’t want to spen another 10hrs polishing is all and I’m not sure how to make it quicker other than increase work area size and reduce passes, but I also want to make sure the abrasives diminish and I don’t compromise the finish I achieved during my detail 2 weeks ago.

I want a more longer term coating of 2-3yrs as I don’t want to polish again for a few years if it can be avoided.


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vaca22 said:
I'm no expert but I've read enough to be dangerous...

1. Recoating everywhere but the roof won't make the roof look any different, as coatings are optically clear. I wanted to coat the cruise control radar emblem on my wife's CUV but never got around to it. I was reluctant to do so at first because I didn't want the coating to interfere with the radar, but I'm pretty sure it's safe...unless someone can set me straight!

2. I believe a regular polish is enough to get rid of an existing coating. The black SDO I believe will not have enough bite, so orange is the better bet.

I will be polishing my existing coating off sooner than later. It's about 1.5 years old at this point but it really hasn't degraded much all. I've been working from home for 2 years now and have saved about 26k commuting miles (WOW!!) so that certainly helps LOL

I have a white car and haven't washed it ALL since the 1st week of December, and it looks CLEAN. It's astonishing.
Click to expand...

1. So the roof would be coated, but with the previous 2 week old coating. I was just hesitant leaving this as there would be a mismatch or coatings and unsure how easy it would be to tell.

2. Also thinking this.

I have also been working from home and saved many miles as well as degradation to the coating I had on!


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Polishing is the only way to remove it. You are over thinking it. Try what you have and move onto re-coating the polished areas.


Gotta’ put the work in to get results.
 
The Guz said:
Polishing is the only way to remove it. You are over thinking it. Try what you have and move onto re-coating the polished areas.


Gotta’ put the work in to get results.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that’s what I thought.

At least I’d save time in not having to do a decon, but I’m still looking at 2 days work. Polishing takes me ages!

Thoughts on Pure vs Mohs? I msged Gyeon and they said for a black Uni car Mohs is the one and that it is also easier to apply. I thought Pure was easier with longer wipe offs and larger work areas etc but maybe Mohs is the better option.


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Try with the combo that you did the finishing polish S30/orange pad. Panel wipe off the area you do a test spot on. Have a spray bottle with water and mist the test spot. It's not unusual that newly polished is beading water still. But you would see the height of the bead should be very low and different from the coated area. If it's not enough S20/orange pad combo is to test out. Hope that you are satisfied the finish that you get from that combo. In my experience the S20 is finishing nice with a medium to finishing pad. You can test to wipe it off after 3 passes and panel wipe and inspect the finish. Do a new test spot and wipe off after 4 passes and inspect the results. In my experience many does over work polishes. Especially the deminishing polishes that's not so common in the US than it is here in EU. This is to get your polishing effective. You can see when the S20 gets clear. Then you are already in the finishing part of the break down of the polish is done. If you do 3 passes slow down the armspeed a notch on the last pass and without any pressure on the polisher. This is usually enough to get the finish clear with S20. With the test spot it's important to dial in the passes and pressure and the armspeed as well. To get the best possible effectiveness from your polishing. Doing like 6-8 passes with deminishing polishes is usually unnecessary. As they are made to be fast deminishing when you are polishing. So you don't need to be polishing for a long time.
Just some tips to get you there

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SWETM said:
Try with the combo that you did the finishing polish S30/orange pad. Panel wipe off the area you do a test spot on. Have a spray bottle with water and mist the test spot. It's not unusual that newly polished is beading water still. But you would see the height of the bead should be very low and different from the coated area. If it's not enough S20/orange pad combo is to test out. Hope that you are satisfied the finish that you get from that combo. In my experience the S20 is finishing nice with a medium to finishing pad. You can test to wipe it off after 3 passes and panel wipe and inspect the finish. Do a new test spot and wipe off after 4 passes and inspect the results. In my experience many does over work polishes. Especially the deminishing polishes that's not so common in the US than it is here in EU. This is to get your polishing effective. You can see when the S20 gets clear. Then you are already in the finishing part of the break down of the polish is done. If you do 3 passes slow down the armspeed a notch on the last pass and without any pressure on the polisher. This is usually enough to get the finish clear with S20. With the test spot it's important to dial in the passes and pressure and the armspeed as well. To get the best possible effectiveness from your polishing. Doing like 6-8 passes with deminishing polishes is usually unnecessary. As they are made to be fast deminishing when you are polishing. So you don't need to be polishing for a long time.
Just some tips to get you there

Skickat från min SM-T736B via Tapatalk
Click to expand...

S20 I was hoping to avoid if I can as I prefer the finish to S30. I’ve tried both a number of times and S30 much better. Thanks for the tips. I did the water bottle thing last time as well.

I usually do 3 passes speed 4-4.5 with S30 at slow/medium speed and that provides a bit of correction as well as finishes well.


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Orange pad for sure, nothing less than that and regular polish, no fine polish or cleaner type product

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S30 and orange pad
Don't waste any more time-- start today, its the weekend
 
luckydawg said:
S30 and orange pad
Don't waste any more time-- start today, its the weekend
Click to expand...

I would but I only have one more day of the weekend left and no new coating yet!


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I agree with the others, i polished off coatings before. Use the orange pad and S30 and of course if that doesn't work use S20.

I made quick work on my trunk lid with the LC orange and 3D one - removing c.quartz UK. I tried the super fine gyeon primer first with the orange pad, it wasn't working. Very light polish.
 
noorth said:
I agree with the others, i polished off coatings before. Use the orange pad and S30 and of course if that doesn't work use S20.

I made quick work on my trunk lid with the LC orange and 3D one - removing c.quartz UK. I tried the super fine gyeon primer first with the orange pad, it wasn't working. Very light polish.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I did some testing yesterday and tried both S20 and S30 on the orange. I then sprayed water on after doing a panel wipe and I couldn’t tell the difference and both seemed to be gone.

Strangest thing happened though - the S30 marred ever so slightly. Like the smallest and faintest little tick marks that you’d almost miss. You can’t see it unless you put your head right up close. From the usual viewing distance with a light it just looks clear and deep. The S20 marred too which is to be expected as that has always happened on my black pain. I figure though if the paint is marring then it’s getting through the coating at least. I’m hoping that the marring from the S30 is due to that area being hot from multiple polishing sets or the different towel I used to wipe up the polish compared to my usual polish removal towels.

How long did it take you using 3D one? This would mar for me i assume as S20 seems to. It’s time consuming for me as I basically have to do the whole polishing step again which seems to take me ages. Maybe I’m just slow.


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rover137 said:
Yeah, that’s what I thought.

At least I’d save time in not having to do a decon, but I’m still looking at 2 days work. Polishing takes me ages!

Thoughts on Pure vs Mohs? I msged Gyeon and they said for a black Uni car Mohs is the one and that it is also easier to apply. I thought Pure was easier with longer wipe offs and larger work areas etc but maybe Mohs is the better option.


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Click to expand...

Mohs is easier to apply. The sweating effect is the visual indicator when it is ready like Gtech CSL. Pure goes on thicker and takes a bit more wiping to get off. I found both rather easy to work with.
 
The Guz said:
Mohs is easier to apply. The sweating effect is the visual indicator when it is ready like Gtech CSL. Pure goes on thicker and takes a bit more wiping to get off. I found both rather easy to work with.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I have ordered Pure which should be here in a couple days hopefully. I just couldn’t get past that gloss and I think for a black car it might look better. I don’t mind if it’s a little bit more difficult, from what I’ve seen it still looks relatively easy. It can’t be as hard as my last experience.

If it is easier than CarPro UK 3.0 and on par (or even more difficult) than CarPro Lite than that’s fine.


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rover137 said:
Thanks. I have ordered Pure which should be here in a couple days hopefully. I just couldn’t get past that gloss and I think for a black car it might look better. I don’t mind if it’s a little bit more difficult, from what I’ve seen it still looks relatively easy. It can’t be as hard as my last experience.

If it is easier than CarPro UK 3.0 and on par (or even more difficult) than CarPro Lite than that’s fine.


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Click to expand...

If you can get some car pro Essence. I had no problem removing a freshly cured layer of CQUK3 with it and a Boss yellow pad (light polishing pad). The nice thing is essence finishes well and leaves a nice gloss.


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