Polish Off Ceramic Coating

[rover137]

If you can get some car pro Essence. I had no problem removing a freshly cured layer of CQUK3 with it and a Boss yellow pad (light polishing pad). The nice thing is essence finishes well and leaves a nice gloss.


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I don’t know if i can get some in time. I could have ordered some Gyeon Primer (similar to Essence) when I ordered the coating, but decided to just use what I have as I just bought fresh bottles of Scholl polishes.

I did a play with hand polishing and the high spots and not only did I remove them quickly, but it also removed the whole coating! I used S40 as well which is even finer than S30.


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[noorth]

Thanks. I did some testing yesterday and tried both S20 and S30 on the orange. I then sprayed water on after doing a panel wipe and I couldn’t tell the difference and both seemed to be gone.

Strangest thing happened though - the S30 marred ever so slightly. Like the smallest and faintest little tick marks that you’d almost miss. You can’t see it unless you put your head right up close. From the usual viewing distance with a light it just looks clear and deep. The S20 marred too which is to be expected as that has always happened on my black pain. I figure though if the paint is marring then it’s getting through the coating at least. I’m hoping that the marring from the S30 is due to that area being hot from multiple polishing sets or the different towel I used to wipe up the polish compared to my usual polish removal towels.

How long did it take you using 3D one? This would mar for me i assume as S20 seems to. It’s time consuming for me as I basically have to do the whole polishing step again which seems to take me ages. Maybe I’m just slow.

And esoteric detailing high recommeded the buff and shine red uro-cell pad for diffcult paints


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I just done 3-4 slow passes. My car is pretty forgiving. I can remove defects rather easily but it still finishes out with a medium compound/pad. Black cars can be very challenging. Sonax perfect finish is highly regarded for difficult paints as you probably know.

And esoteric detailing highly recommends the red buff and shine euro-cell pad for difficult paints. Its closed cell FYI.

 

[rover137]

I just done 3-4 slow passes. My car is pretty forgiving. I can remove defects rather easily but it still finishes out with a medium compound/pad. Black cars can be very challenging. Sonax perfect finish is highly regarded for difficult paints as you probably know.

And esoteric detailing highly recommends the red buff and shine euro-cell pad for difficult paints. Its closed cell FYI.

I’ve considered Sonax PF but from what I understand it has similar cut to S20 which marrs my paint. I’ve used the Orange SDO and S30 3-4 times now and it removes most defects (not RIDs but I’m not chasing those) as well as finishes amazingly for me. I clean pads often, rotate them often and use very little product and that works really well for my black paint. I don’t know why it marred yesterday when I was testing out removing the coating. I did use a different polishing cloth to usual and it was the 2nd or 3rd time I’d polished that area so perhaps too much heat as well. Why that combo would all of a sudden marr when the only other variable is that there is a coating on the car I do not know. Perhaps it’s the coating residue stopping me from finishing out at 100% as it normally does.


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[rover137]

Does anyone know if Eraser/Gyeon Prep wipe are enough to remove ONR residue to then lay down a coating?


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[Coatingsarecrack]

Does anyone know if Eraser/Gyeon Prep wipe are enough to remove ONR residue to then lay down a coating?


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It removes polishing residue. ONR doesn’t leave much behind so I’d guess yes. Next time invest in some Feynlab Pure Rinseless,Mckee’s N914 or Griots Brilliant finish rinseless. The don’t leave anything behind.


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[rover137]

It removes polishing residue. ONR doesn’t leave much behind so I’d guess yes. Next time invest in some Feynlab Pure Rinseless,Mckee’s N914 or Griots Brilliant finish rinseless. The don’t leave anything behind.


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I ended up doing a strong alkaline wash anyway, which i usually do when coating after polishing. I was trying to save time and remove that step.

I’ve been interested to try the N914 for a while.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

I ended up doing a strong alkaline wash anyway, which i usually do when coating after polishing. I was trying to save time and remove that step.

I’ve been interested to try the N914 for a while.


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If your coating look into the Feynlab PR. Strong and good to clean to the coating. Good stuff. I have all I mentioned in my arsenal and this is good at pre coating wax removal and coating maintenance.


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[rover137]

If your coating look into the Feynlab PR. Strong and good to clean to the coating. Good stuff. I have all I mentioned in my arsenal and this is good at pre coating wax removal and coating maintenance.


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Is it like a strong alkaline wash? I maintained our previous coatings using Snow + (high alkaline bucket wash), CarPro Lift (high alkaline Snow foam) and CarPro Descale (high acidic foam/bucket). Doing these every 3-6 months seemed to really bring back the water behavior.

I’ve been interested in some Feynlab stuff for a while now but it’s a little harder to get here in Aus and a little more pricey.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

Is it like a strong alkaline wash? I maintained our previous coatings using Snow + (high alkaline bucket wash), CarPro Lift (high alkaline Snow foam) and CarPro Descale (high acidic foam/bucket). Doing these every 3-6 months seemed to really bring back the water behavior.

I’ve been interested in some Feynlab stuff for a while now but it’s a little harder to get here in Aus and a little more pricey.


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I’m not 100% sure but I think I remember reading it was neutral but it sure acts like a Alkaline product.


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