Polish you can let dry before wiping?

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986DTM

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I often find myself using AIO's for minor correction work not because I don't plan on using a LSP but because I can do at least a few panels before wiping without giving myself a hard time with removal. Trying this with ultimate polish, for instance, would be a nightmare.

So my question is, are there any light to medium polishes that don't give you a hard time if you let them dry? I ask because most times I finish off with a LSP (wolfgang or similar) and I question how well sealants adhere to the protection the AIO leaves behind.

So what do you guys think? Are there any polishes out there with an easy wipe off even after sitting for awhile? or should I just keep using AIO's (Menz 3 in 1, Speed, Poorboys PWS etc) without worry that I'm diminishing the longevity of whatever sealant I'm putting on top? I suppose some pure polishes leave fillers and oils that could potentially affect adherence anyways?
 
986DTM said:
I often find myself using AIO's for minor correction work not because I don't plan on using a LSP but because I can do at least a few panels before wiping without giving myself a hard time with removal. Trying this with ultimate polish, for instance, would be a nightmare.

So my question is, are there any light to medium polishes that don't give you a hard time if you let them dry? I ask because most times I finish off with a LSP (wolfgang or similar) and I question how well sealants adhere to the protection the AIO leaves behind.

So what do you guys think? Are there any polishes out there with an easy wipe off even after sitting for awhile? or should I just keep using AIO's (Menz 3 in 1, Speed, Poorboys PWS etc) without worry that I'm diminishing the longevity of whatever sealant I'm putting on top? I suppose some pure polishes leave fillers and oils that could potentially affect adherence anyways?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about using an AIO prior to applying a sealant.

Scholl Concept's S20 Black, S30+, and even S3 Gold can be left for a significant amount of time before removing with no issue.
 
Good to know regarding the topping of an AIO with a sealant. And yes, I know its always best to wipe right away so you can see your results as you go. My car is in great shape and always garaged so I tend to prefer products that let me do a quick maintenance polish as quick as possible. That usually means laying down whatever polish I'm using on 1/3 to 1/2 the car at a time before wiping.
 
Let me first make the distinction between "just polishes" and "AIO's" (or cleaner waxes).

For me, there is no benefit to letting polishes dry. Once they've been worked and reduced down to what I'm left with I immediately remove any residue. I need to know and confirm it gave me the desired results. If my intended LSP used later is NOT in the same family, I use Car Pro Eraser to wipe that panel clean. Hopefully anything left intended as fillers are removed. I want FLAT paint, not masked with fillers. These are "just polishes" and don't have any protection or LSP elements. Of it comes and immediately along with anything it left behind. Now I know I'm ready for my dedicated LSP step.

Now, cleaner waxes I treat differently. I have been using a lot of both HD Speed and McKee's 360 lately. these products, as we all know, include a protective component in the mix. Because of that, after working those products for the cleaning and abrading, I work it down but LEAVE the residue on the vehicle until I am completely done going around the car. I then go around the vehicle and remove the final residue and it's a breeze with both products. No Eraser...just a super plush MF towel that is surgically clean! I want to know I've left the LSP component on long enough to grab hold of the paint surface, set up and begin to settle in for hopefully a good long grab hold of the paint before rubbing off any residue.

My final point here is that, in my practice, I don't top a cleaner wax with any other LSP. I have never trusted another LSP to bond effictively with the paint with the "wax" (or sealant) component of the cleaner wax previously used. Just my approach and I understand others may differ with that.
 
986DTM said:
Good to know regarding the topping
of an AIO with a sealant.
Click to expand...
•If the AIO is a Cleaner-Wax:
-I would "top it" with a Wax,
not a Sealant.


•I'm even inclined to "top" AIOs
that are Cleaner-Sealants:
-with a Wax, rather than a Sealant.


Bob
 
986DTM said:
I often find myself using AIO's for minor correction work not because I don't plan on using a LSP but because I can do at least a few panels before wiping without giving myself a hard time with removal. Trying this with ultimate polish, for instance, would be a nightmare.
Click to expand...

I see what you're aiming at but I suppose I would question why you wouldn't wipe after each section to ensure a good correction. At the very most an entire panel then wipe. I personally follow this method and find it moves me along quite well. That said, I've never had a problem removing Ultimate Polish. IMO if you are having a hard time, perhaps you are working it too long and heating it up too much cooking it to the surface. Just a thought.
 
FUNX650 said:
I don't let polishes dry.
Here's why:


Which products need to dry – The Car Wax Mentality


Bob
Click to expand...


Ding dang.... I forgot about that article.... actually wrote it years ago for MOL, forgot I updated it and wrote it for AGO.

Good super sleuthing...


To the thread starter, best practice is to wipe of polishes and compounds after working a section, easier on you and safer for the paint. The safety issue is not as big a deal when compounding but it is when polishing.


As for cleaner/waxes or AIOs or cleaner/sealants, i.e. products that clean, polish and protect in one step, normally you would let these dry before wiping off so the protection ingredients can do whatever magic they do to bond to the paint so you don't simply wipe the protection off.

Chemist told me once that part of how a protection ingredient bonds is through the drying process. No drying, less substance bonded.

I'm not a chemist but trust the ones I know and like.

:)
 
Thanks guys. I am aware there is zero benefit to letting a polish dry. I don't have any issues removing UP when I wipe right away but I would never try to do a whole car with it before wiping.

Like I said my paint is in already in great shape (hovers around 90-95% corrected depending on when I last polished it) so I value time savings more than absolute perfection. Its more of me just wanting to do a quick polish to get out any super faint wash marring than it is the paint actually needing a serious correction.
 
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