Polishes to use with HydroTech Pads

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charlestek

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Can someone explain to me what kinds of polishes are for use with a Lake Country HydroTech pad vs the CCS pads???
 
charlestek said:
Can someone explain to me what kinds of polishes are for use with a Lake Country HydroTech pad vs the CCS pads???
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I would say you can use any good quality polish with either type of pads. No reason not to.
 
I believe that one type of foam is made to not absorb oily polish so as to keep the polish on the top of the pad, instead of migrating into the pad. Similarly, the HydroTech does this for water based polishes????
 
Idk maybe someone else will chime in. What polish were you wanting to use?
 
That's the thing. I have many meguiar's polishes that seem to have meguiar's special oils to help the paint. This is just for my car, I do this as a too expensive hobby. This is for a slightly used 2017 Accord I got with 6k after a slow speed accident that totalled a previous 2017 Accord I bought new. I am worried that the dealer compounded off too much clear. I've been checking with a paint meter I have, but I need to get the calibration routine perfected, as it will apparently calibrate from averages of a number of points using calibration foils. Unfortunately this car is black, I didn't want black, but it was hard to get this model (Sport SE) used. I also probably am going to use Meguiars 105/205 both which appear to be water based with no oils. Recently, I bought two large bottles of Meguiars #82 Swirl Free polish that is on the very low abrasion side, as I had had an older black 2003 Maxima which I did polish with 205/105 and wound up getting spider cracks in the clear coat, as the dealer must have messed up the paint, as I bought that car used with 32k miles from a woman that garaged and babied it.

I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Finish which I think is water based. I also got some Optimum Hyper Polish just in case, because lastly I am going to use Optimum gloss coat, but the optimum people were insisting that the gloss coat is not greatly compatible with the Meguiar's oil based polishes. Finally, I purchased some Griot's (forgot what it is called) compound because the Autogeek detailers were complaining that Meguiars 105 made too much dust, which I do seem to remember. I have no idea until I start on the car, exactly what polishes will work.
 
Scholl S40 is nice with crimson hydrotech.

While I think it was the blue hydrotech that coined the term 'hydro-shred' but I've never had any issues with tangerine and crimson.

At one time, and maybe still a valid point, the closed cell structure of the hydrotechs lent itself well to DAT liquids as they did not soak into the pad much, making working through the cycle more efficient.

Conversely, using dimpled pads with DAT stuff is thought by some to be counter-productive in that the dimples keep releasing fresh polish to the pad surface making working thru the cycle with a DAT polish a longer excercise to break it down fully for a finer finish.

Dunno, read it here on AG a few years ago; guess it could all be theory or marketing.

:shrug:
 
Apparently ??? people are migrating away from the older Meguiars polishes to the newest 105/205 for some specific reason.... I don't have enough experience to know why.
 
They work great with just about any compounds and polishes out there.

They don't have much inherent cut on their own, but really work the abrasives of whatever liquids you choose.
 
dlc, I think you need some gold chains around your neck in the new avatar....

I wish I could get a few cars from the junkyard to practice on. Hmm, maybe I need to offer my neighbor "free detailing".....

Of course, non of you guys "practice" on your customer cars? Am I right :nomore:
 
I would then expect that his drums are spit polished with the latest ceramic coating.....
 
charlestek said:
That's the thing. I have many meguiar's polishes that seem to have meguiar's special oils to help the paint. This is just for my car, I do this as a too expensive hobby. This is for a slightly used 2017 Accord I got with 6k after a slow speed accident that totalled a previous 2017 Accord I bought new. I am worried that the dealer compounded off too much clear. I've been checking with a paint meter I have, but I need to get the calibration routine perfected, as it will apparently calibrate from averages of a number of points using calibration foils. Unfortunately this car is black, I didn't want black, but it was hard to get this model (Sport SE) used. I also probably am going to use Meguiars 105/205 both which appear to be water based with no oils. Recently, I bought two large bottles of Meguiars #82 Swirl Free polish that is on the very low abrasion side, as I had had an older black 2003 Maxima which I did polish with 205/105 and wound up getting spider cracks in the clear coat, as the dealer must have messed up the paint, as I bought that car used with 32k miles from a woman that garaged and babied it.

I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Finish which I think is water based. I also got some Optimum Hyper Polish just in case, because lastly I am going to use Optimum gloss coat, but the optimum people were insisting that the gloss coat is not greatly compatible with the Meguiar's oil based polishes. Finally, I purchased some Griot's (forgot what it is called) compound because the Autogeek detailers were complaining that Meguiars 105 made too much dust, which I do seem to remember. I have no idea until I start on the car, exactly what polishes will work.
Click to expand...

Ok right of the bat I would say does this car a 2017 even require a compounding? IMO the defects need to be quite severe to require a strong compound. You should do a test spot with something medium strength first I think. Especially if you think the clear paint is to thin.

The meguiars polishes are very oily but its up to you if you feel like you can remove all the oils during the stripping step before coating. I wouldn't use any of the meguiars "ultimate" line though becuase they are oil heavy and use fillers. not good before coating. thats my 2 cents
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Scholl S40 is nice with crimson hydrotech.

While I think it was the blue hydrotech that coined the term 'hydro-shred' but I've never had any issues with tangerine and crimson.

At one time, and maybe still a valid point, the closed cell structure of the hydrotechs lent itself well to DAT liquids as they did not soak into the pad much, making working through the cycle more efficient.

Conversely, using dimpled pads with DAT stuff is thought by some to be counter-productive in that the dimples keep releasing fresh polish to the pad surface making working thru the cycle with a DAT polish a longer excercise to break it down fully for a finer finish.

Dunno, read it here on AG a few years ago; guess it could all be theory or marketing.

:shrug:
Click to expand...

That makes perfect sense.
 
charlestek said:
dlc, I think you need some gold chains around your neck in the new avatar....

I wish I could get a few cars from the junkyard to practice on. Hmm, maybe I need to offer my neighbor "free detailing".....

Of course, non of you guys "practice" on your customer cars? Am I right :nomore:
Click to expand...

Lol!

Yeah, I used scrap panels to experiment with, but sometimes through the process of determining procedure via a test spot the customer does become a sort of "practice" mule.
 
fightnews said:
Ok right of the bat I would say does this car a 2017 even require a compounding? IMO the defects need to be quite severe to require a strong compound. You should do a test spot with something medium strength first I think. Especially if you think the clear paint is to thin.

The meguiars polishes are very oily but its up to you if you feel like you can remove all the oils during the stripping step before coating. I wouldn't use any of the meguiars "ultimate" line though becuase they are oil heavy and use fillers. not good before coating. thats my 2 cents
Click to expand...

Ultimate isn't any more oil heavy than anything else out there. And what's with this "filler" stuff? That was debunked a long time ago.

Ultimate worked great with Hydrotech pads.
 
fightnews said:
210 and 110 are the new ones
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fightnews,

You're supposed to tell me that BEFORE :joking: I placed my order to Autogeek for extra bottles of 105 and 205. What is the difference. And what is the difference in these 105/205 110/210 polishes that makes them better than the 100's of models of polishes that Meguiar's has, so many that you could not figure out why the hell they sell all these different polishes...?
 
fightnews,

I guess the issue here is the word "compounding" which is a very loose word apparently in detailing. I think the idea is that you use whatever polishes ((when I say polish, I mean mild, medium, strong ->cutting or abrasive strength )(compounding is probably equated with a very strong cutting "polish" or bottle of stuff)) so that you want to remove the minimum amount of clearcoat that gets rid of the major amount of defects (swirls in my case).

Autotopia has a chart of milder to stronger cutting/abrasiveness for most brands.

The fact that the car is newer doesn't account for how badly the car dealer or former owner treated the clearcoat (they stuck the thing through an AutoButler to convince me the paint was fine before I could yell no!) and the fact that the car is black and does not have a garage, so its paint would be getting the maximum amount of UV deterioration possible.

The other thing is that some polishes are diminishing abrasives, in that they abrade more initially then maybe stay at a certain level forever or maybe go down even more (I have no clue on which ones are what).

On top of that, the type of pad that you use affects how much the polish cuts and then the rpm and torque of the Porter Cable or other polishing machine, plus how much pressure you use and technique.

Apparently some detailer's live dangerously by using a higher abrasive compound with a lower cutting pad and are able to correct swirls better than me trying to use a weaker polish, longer and longer with the machine.

So I had planned to start with the weakest polish, or so I thought Meguiars #82, which I absent mindedly got a couple bottles before I remembered that I used 105/205 years ago when doing my black maxima.

Since I believe I have seen a few tiny spidercracks in my present 2017 black accord, I am scared blankless. I was going to go after the dealer last year and Honda if I discovered that the clearcoat had been polished way too low, but I had surgeries last year and other issues that made the car paint a low priority.

Otherwise I would have analyzed the paint carefully last year. My paint meter seems to say that the lowest amount of paint on the roof is around 100 micrometers, but I have yet to figure the calibration correctly, so there is a chance I may be in a more comfortable range of 110 to maybe 120 micrometers.

Thanks to the rainiest
April on record in Boston, going more than 20 days of rain that month and one of the rainiest Mays on record raining most every day, I have not been able to find time to play with the car paint (no garage).

We are now at tree pollen season here, so really I have to figure out how to beg, borrow or steal someone's garage to work on my car. My mom's garage in CT is too small to work as it barely is wide enough for cars.

And it would take me a couple days to very carefully polish the paint and put a few coats of Optimum Gloss Seal on the car (I'm slow) . I now realized I really have to have another set of very thick microfiber towels for the final cleaning of the polishes, as I have some gray cobra autogeek towels, but not enough.

I generally use the normal grade Meguiars microfibers for everything up to the last polishes, but it would save a lot of time to have a lot of very thick premium plus towels, especially since the bloody car is black and you have to make sure you get everything off the finish.

I picked up a SnapOn high intensity LED worklight at Costco on sale for $25 to inspect the paint, but I also use a high intensity cheap LED headlamp (fits on my head) to inspect the paint.

Currently, I'm trying to clay and polish and seal the alloy summer wheels (still have my snow tires on :-( ), get them on the car, but have had a few roadblocks. Given even a "reasonable" paint thickness, I have no idea what the clearcoat thickness is, and am very suspicious that it is not great.
 
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