Hello,
I am curious if you have to do a criss-cross pattern? I have the 3" GG DA for A pillars but its just small enough to basically rub back and forth horizontally, is this substantial or do I need to do little 2" vertical-ish passes?
You don't. For thin panels you just run the polisher back and forth in the direction of the length of the panel.
"Sometimes all you can do is all you can do"
Here's what I wrote in this thread, see post #3
Alternating Horizontal/Vertical Section Passes?
Second, because some panels are not large and flat, especially on modern cars which are aerodynamic and for this reason very curved, then you use what I call the
Yoda Technique, that is you,
"Let the panel be your guide"
(When you read the above sentence, use your best Yoda impersonation)
So of course, if you're working a long, thin panel then you might best work that panel by only going in one direction and doing your best to overlap your passes.
Basically whatever it takes to get the job done.
Also, Do you break up the 2" painted areas that surround the window or can you run over the entire section in 1 pass?
One pass, see above...
An 18x18" area has more surface area than say a 30"x2" area but to me it seems to dry out faster on the opposite ends by time you get there.
Correct. I talk about that here,
Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight
Shrink your work area down to a smaller size...
Anytime a product becomes difficult to work with, one tip you can try is to shrink down the size of your work area. This means you spread the product out over a smaller area
and only work this smaller area.
Be careful not to allow yourself to do what I call Buffer Creep. This is where you creep outward from your original
small section and end up buffing out a larger section. Avoid Buffer Creep. Especially if your product appears to be drying up and becoming dusty.
Why a smaller area?
Because when you're working only a small are you're continually engaging the working film of product over the area more quickly as you move the polisher and by doing this there's less time for the product to dry and dust.
(Reason I ask is I am having correcting issues on small sections with the 3" Griots machine. Not sure if its because I'm not criss crossing or I'm not use to the weaker machine?)
I've removed #2000 grit sanding marks using only a foam pad and a medium cut polish with this tool so it CAN do correction work but what I always tell people is you have to use EXPERT technique and by that I man focus on the task at hand and be sure to
mark your backing plate and then hold the pad flat to the surface and vary your downward pressure to maintain pad rotation.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
Good questions!
:dblthumb2:
