Polishing Fail, I feel like giving up before it even started.

I have a doubt, do you prime the pad before use it? or at least spray it with some QD? In the past, I've had problems with hazing if the pad is dry or if the product is only focused in certain area of the pad when I was polishing. With the proper priming I've used even Megs 105 in soft paint with very good results. Another thing if your paint if very very soft (like mine) use a edgeless MF or be careful with the edges because can mar your paint.

I'm not familiar with PB line but I know Megs, my suggestion would be using a white pad with some UC, prime the pad first and work at speed 5 with medium to heavy pressure using slow motions for a few passes, then decrease the pressure and finaly do 2 or 3 passes using only the machine weight. With another white pad do the same with SwirlX. I think that could take off the hazing and marring. Like I repeat be careful with your MF towels.

I understand your situation, I have a black car with very soft paint and to be honest my best friend still is Menzerna 106FA, Megs 205 is nice too, but my top is Menzerna. My favorite pads are LC whites and LC HT Tangerines, with those I can achieve almost a LSP-ready. 85RD with black pad is great for jewelling.

Good luck!
 

I agree with priming the pad, but be careful, if you prime it too much, the product will sling everywhere.





 
Poe85 said:
I have a doubt, do you prime the pad before use it? or at least spray it with some QD? In the past, I've had problems with hazing if the pad is dry or if the product is only focused in certain area of the pad when I was polishing. With the proper priming I've used even Megs 105 in soft paint with very good results. Another thing if your paint if very very soft (like mine) use a edgeless MF or be careful with the edges because can mar your paint.

I'm not familiar with PB line but I know Megs, my suggestion would be using a white pad with some UC, prime the pad first and work at speed 5 with medium to heavy pressure using slow motions for a few passes, then decrease the pressure and finaly do 2 or 3 passes using only the machine weight. With another white pad do the same with SwirlX. I think that could take off the hazing and marring. Like I repeat be careful with your MF towels.

I understand your situation, I have a black car with very soft paint and to be honest my best friend still is Menzerna 106FA, Megs 205 is nice too, but my top is Menzerna. My favorite pads are LC whites and LC HT Tangerines, with those I can achieve almost a LSP-ready. 85RD with black pad is great for jewelling.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

I've read priming it with a QD or XMT Pad Conditioner isn't needed but I'll give that a try.
Thanks for suggestions!
 
Just a thought here.......looking at picture number 3 suggests you are going strictly from windshield to the leading edge of the hood over and over. Have you done any other patterns such as left to right or figure 8's?

If the PB SSR #1 and white pad is throwing a lot of dust then you are indeed running the pad/surface dry.
 
RTexasF said:
Just a thought here.......looking at picture number 3 suggests you are going strictly from windshield to the leading edge of the hood over and over. Have you done any other patterns such as left to right or figure 8's?
Click to expand...

Yes I've followed the videos and go from left to right section passes then up and down section passes
 
Have you tried 2.5 on a white pad with a long working time? 2.5 and orange is a strong combination.

One other thing.......has the car ever been repainted?
 
Try PB 1.0 or Swirl X with a black pad speed 5 slow speed light pressure
 

itzJoker said:
even when I swipe my finger my paint scratches!!
Click to expand...


That is some real sensitive/soft paint.

Try a real soft finishing pad, primed with QD, and thoroughly work the polish until it breaks down, then remove the bulk of the polish with a MF dampened with QD. Then do a final wipe with a fresh, clean MF.

If simply wiping the finish with a clean MF is scratching the paint, then it's no fault of yours, as it sounds like you have some real sensitive paint.

If this is the case, you will have to develop a technique for this particular scenario.





 
Fly bye said:
That is some real sensitive/soft paint.

Try a real soft finishing pad, primed with QD, and thoroughly work the polish until it breaks down, then remove the bulk of the polish with a MF dampened with QD. Then do a final wipe with a fresh, clean MF.

If simply wiping the finish with a clean MF is scratching the paint, then it's no fault of yours, as it sounds like you have some real sensitive paint.

If this is the case, you will have to develop a technique for this particular scenario.
Click to expand...

Yeah I guess I have some retarded paint because when I was removing the polish I can see the MF installing some scratches, OR it could be that if I didn't work the product long enough, removing the abrasives that have not broken down could have put some scratches but i dont think that caused the micro-marring.

I'll try your method too and priming the pad.

RTexasF said:
Have you tried 2.5 on a white pad with a long working time? 2.5 and orange is a strong combination.

One other thing.......has the car ever been repainted?
Click to expand...

Still, wouldn't I have to follow up with a finer polish like SSR 1.0 to get rid of the micro marring (which I already have tried on a blue pad)
It's original paint.


But yeah I'm probably done working on it tonight as I don't have adequate lighting nor do I have a swirl finder.
 
As your paint is so soft, do a CD test with your MF towels, if they scratch the CD indeed will scratch your paint.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTexasF View Post
Have you tried 2.5 on a white pad with a long working time? 2.5 and orange is a strong combination.

One other thing.......has the car ever been repainted?
Still, wouldn't I have to follow up with a finer polish like SSR 1.0 to get rid of the micro marring (which I already have tried on a blue pad)
It's original paint.
Click to expand...

Yes it is likely that you would. My point is that if the 2.5 on a white pad reduces the marring/marks even a little then you know you are on the right track. The next step would likely be 1.0 with a clean white or finishing pad.
 

columbo-11.jpg





 
Joker where at in Ohio are you? If you're close enough maybe I could swing by and lend a hand.
 
I'm from Austintown, OH.

If you're anywhere within an hour, I'd be glad to drive to you.
 
Next time do a test spot and I am for the 85RD as well if nothings else improves it.

Give us some updates :)
 
Yeah I'll try some different techniques tomorrow morning.

And it's only 3 hours, you should come here :P ha
 
I had EXACTLY the same tick marks on my fathers toyota tundra after a SSR 2.5 polish on org pad to remove bad water spots. I was able to remove them with SSR 1 on white with A LOT of pressure. WAY MORE then you think is sane. Did you mark your backing plate to see the speed that it is spinning? I was using enough pressure that it barely spun ( 1 -2 revs per sec) for 2 -3 passes then lightened up for 1 -2 passes to what seemed more normal. I think your going to light on the pressure and to long on the buff time. PB's does not seem to have a long work time. (the new Syn 1 i been tested seems very short to dust also but maybe its me). It took me 4 -5 hours of playing with SSR 1 to figure this out.

Here was the finished product pre wax:





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and post wax:

[url=http://www.autogeekonline.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/18206]



 
Da Fats said:
I had EXACTLY the same tick marks on my fathers toyota tundra after a SSR 2.5 polish on org pad to remove bad water spots. I was able to remove them with SSR 1 on white with A LOT of pressure. WAY MORE then you think is sane. Did you mark your backing plate to see the speed that it is spinning? I was using enough pressure that it barely spun ( 1 -2 revs per sec) for 2 -3 passes then lightened up for 1 -2 passes to what seemed more normal. I think your going to light on the pressure and to long on the buff time. PB's does not seem to have a long work time. (the new Syn 1 i been tested seems very short to dust also but maybe its me). It took me 4 -5 hours of playing with SSR 1 to figure this out.
Click to expand...

I'll try putting alot of pressure too, I was afraid of messing up the clear as this is my first time.

Yes, I've put the marking on the back.
I'm using the new GG ROP so I don't know if it would take more pressure to make it spin like how you made yours.

I've also noticed that it did not have a long work time as the polish became clear pretty quick but I wasn't sure so I worked it longer to make sure that I was doing things right.


If all else fails, I'll probably go and get 85rd, does anyone know any other finishing polish that is less aggressive then 85rd?
 
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