Polishing Stainless Steel?

Johnnyboy

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My aftermarket wheels have a Powder Coated center with Polished stainless steel lips and I just removed them and put my stocks on until my new tires come in. In the mean time I did notice that the SS lips look as if they have minor swirls on them, I guess from everyday driving and whatnot.

I want to get as close to a mirror polish as possible. Any recomendations? I have my PC and some pads I can try with Megs Ult polish? I also have Mothers Alum polish which really didnt do much when I tried it by hand unless I try it with the PC and pad? I also have #0000 steel wool if that could help........ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED! Thanks in advance!
 
if the metal polish won't remove the swirls, you could try the steel wool and going in one direction with long strokes, then follow it with metal polish and a mini ball attached on a drill.

I have wheels with polished lips and have used sandpaper (1000, 2000), super fine steel wool, then going at it with metal polish using the mothers mini ball on a drill brings it to a brilliant shine. Only use sandpaper if you are refinishing the lips (or fixing curb rash, which I also used a dremel with the grinding, then sanding attachment( 240 grit I believe) to smooth out the rash), followed by the steps I mentioned previously.
 
I wouldn't take steel wool to it. Polishing stainless steel is pretty much identical to polishing aluminum. The steel wool will most likely just put scratches into it, that you will have a tough time getting out.

I would try an aluminum compound, and polish. If you have to, try Flitz aluminum scuff pads, followed by the compound and polish. The scuff pads would be less aggressive than steel wool making it much easier to remove the etchings.

I used this method on a set of rims I had to repair in this thread...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/40466-camaro-project-northeast-detailing.html
 
I would check to see if the lips of ur rims are aluminum and not stainless....because if the rim is one complete piece, then the entire rim would have to be steel or stainless steel... And that would be one heavy rim if it was completely stainless. And the rim can't br aluminum with a stainless lip, because stainless and aluminum don't play nice together and the aluminum would corrode at a very rapid rate when in contact with stainless. I do metal polishing( mostly big rigs) here in Chicago when the weather is better. If they are in fact stainless and have a brushed/ milled finish to them, you will have to sand the lips with sandpaper to get the milling lines out first before trying to polish. Stainless is way harder the aluminum and takes some work to get an even shine on it. But, if u have the patience , you can get it done.
 
They are definetely SS and thats one of the reasons that I bought them because they aren't legit 2 piece wheels but the SS lips are replaceable......just in case they get scuffed up real bad. Plus no black residue when I tried the Mothers polish.
 
Not a very good pick but this is them.

l_6dde1bfbfb0f4e52befcb5fb780c28ad.jpg
 
I wouldn't take steel wool to it. Polishing stainless steel is pretty much identical to polishing aluminum. The steel wool will most likely just put scratches into it, that you will have a tough time getting out.

I would try an aluminum compound, and polish. If you have to, try Flitz aluminum scuff pads, followed by the compound and polish. The scuff pads would be less aggressive than steel wool making it much easier to remove the etchings.

I used this method on a set of rims I had to repair in this thread...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/40466-camaro-project-northeast-detailing.html

#0000 steel wool/metal polish doesn't scratch aluminum which is softer than stainless steel. I have polished my bare aluminum hundreds of times with steel wool and metal polish.

(we are not talking about regular steel wool - yes that would put scratches) #0000 is super fine steel wool

It is going take some muscle to polish them out.
 
Ok... Replaceable... Atleast u thought ahead...if you want gleaming stainless, I wouldn't try it by hand. It can b done, but just need patience , patience, patience. I always sand and then use a rotary with stainless rouge and 10" airway pads.
 
#0000 steel wool/metal polish doesn't scratch aluminum which is softer than stainless steel. I have polished my bare aluminum hundreds of times with steel wool and metal polish.

(we are not talking about regular steel wool - yes that would put scratches) #0000 is super fine steel wool

It is going take some muscle to polish them out.


That's certainly news to me. I've only used #0000 steel wool and a metal polish lightly on chrome. I never use it for aluminum cause I've never had to I guess.

I would be afraid of the steel fibers being embedded into the aluminum and rusting. But whatever works, just not my style.
 
They are definetely SS and thats one of the reasons that I bought them because they aren't legit 2 piece wheels but the SS lips are replaceable......just in case they get scuffed up real bad. Plus no black residue when I tried the Mothers polish.

You'll get plenty of black residue from stainless...sounds to me like they are clearcoated.
 
To be honest I should've had written BARELY any black residue. Some black residue did come off but nothing like on Aluminum. I didnt notice I put thaty on there. Sorry!
 
Try the ultimate polish first on the stainless veneer, in case it is clearcoated.
 
I would be afraid of the steel fibers being embedded into the aluminum and rusting.

Not to argue with you but I never had that happen. I have had bare aluminum wheels since 2001 one my only vehicle. Lots of polishing to keep them clean!
 
Please do not use steel wool on aluminum. Stainless yes, aluminum never ever ever. I have yet to find a solid ss polish. Most work well, but if you want a perfect finish, the wheels have to see a polishing wheel with dedicated ss compounds. Then put a sealer on them. You will be good for sometime, depending on driving conditions. Keeping ss perfect is a never ending process of polishing wheel work. Same for bare aluminum. Trust me, I have spent a month of Sundays polishing both.

Sparty
 
Please do not use steel wool on aluminum. Stainless yes, aluminum never ever ever. I have yet to find a solid ss polish. Most work well, but if you want a perfect finish, the wheels have to see a polishing wheel with dedicated ss compounds. Then put a sealer on them. You will be good for sometime, depending on driving conditions. Keeping ss perfect is a never ending process of polishing wheel work. Same for bare aluminum. Trust me, I have spent a month of Sundays polishing both.

Sparty

-I will have to disagree with you on using steel wool on SS...I Don't... and I Don't recommend it either...It can actually cause rust.
Remember in the process of manufacturing SS, a little more than 10% chromium is used to form the hard outer oxide coating on the steel base metal surface. If this outer oxide layer is compromised by corrosion, wear, or abrasion, the SS will rust like regular steel!

-I will agree with you on the best way to achieve a "perfect finish" is by the use of dedicated SS abrasives....Used during the buffing phase (polishing), involving three to four grades of abrasives...SS coarse (gray), SS fine (green), Chromium Oxide (superfine, also green)...Then, if so desired, a final buffing with rouge (jewelers grade, when available--red/pink...the finest grade).
The smoothing phase is where deeper scratches/pitting can be removed...You can't buff out pits.

-I'll have to disagree with you on the use of applying sealants to SS.
SS has to "breathe" in order to form its anti-corrosive coating...the adherent chromium oxide film, if you will. This can only be accomplished if SS is clean/contaminant-free and in the presence of oxygen.
You never want to encapsulate SS with a sealant...That will inhibit it from breathing.
It would be better to apply a car wax...it will enable SS to stay cleaner longer and to breathe. I usually use Simichrome.

Many folks have also exerted a lot of effort in maintaining SS, as well as other metals.


:)

Bob
 
-I will have to disagree with you on using steel wool on SS...I Don't... and I Don't recommend it either...It can actually cause rust.
Remember in the process of manufacturing SS, a little more than 10% chromium is used to form the hard outer oxide coating on the steel base metal surface. If this outer oxide layer is compromised by corrosion, wear, or abrasion, the SS will rust like regular steel!

-I will agree with you on the best way to achieve a "perfect finish" is by the use of dedicated SS abrasives....Used during the buffing phase (polishing), involving three to four grades of abrasives...SS coarse (gray), SS fine (green), Chromium Oxide (superfine, also green)...Then, if so desired, a final buffing with rouge (jewelers grade, when available--red/pink...the finest grade).
The smoothing phase is where deeper scratches/pitting can be removed...You can't buff out pits.

-I'll have to disagree with you on the use of applying sealants to SS.
SS has to "breathe" in order to form its anti-corrosive coating...the adherent chromium oxide film, if you will. This can only be accomplished if SS is clean/contaminant-free and in the presence of oxygen.
You never want to encapsulate SS with a sealant...That will inhibit it from breathing.
It would be better to apply a car wax...it will enable SS to stay cleaner longer and to breathe. I usually use Simichrome.

Many folks have also exerted a lot of effort in maintaining SS, as well as other metals.


:)

Bob

Bob, I agree with your disagreements. I do not use steel wool on ss, but it can be used. As for sealants, I guess I used the wrong "catch" word. I did not mean a true sealant like Opti-Coat , but more of a protective barrier like a wax.

Sparty
 
-I will have to disagree with you on using steel wool on SS...I Don't... and I Don't recommend it either...It can actually cause rust.
Remember in the process of manufacturing SS, a little more than 10% chromium is used to form the hard outer oxide coating on the steel base metal surface. If this outer oxide layer is compromised by corrosion, wear, or abrasion, the SS will rust like regular steel!

-I will agree with you on the best way to achieve a "perfect finish" is by the use of dedicated SS abrasives....Used during the buffing phase (polishing), involving three to four grades of abrasives...SS coarse (gray), SS fine (green), Chromium Oxide (superfine, also green)...Then, if so desired, a final buffing with rouge (jewelers grade, when available--red/pink...the finest grade).
The smoothing phase is where deeper scratches/pitting can be removed...You can't buff out pits.

-I'll have to disagree with you on the use of applying sealants to SS.
SS has to "breathe" in order to form its anti-corrosive coating...the adherent chromium oxide film, if you will. This can only be accomplished if SS is clean/contaminant-free and in the presence of oxygen.
You never want to encapsulate SS with a sealant...That will inhibit it from breathing.
It would be better to apply a car wax...it will enable SS to stay cleaner longer and to breathe. I usually use Simichrome.

Many folks have also exerted a lot of effort in maintaining SS, as well as other metals.


:)

Bob


That's actually getting really technical but it is good information! I had recently started using Wheel Wax but now this got me wondering if it would have some long term side effects:confused:
 
That's actually getting really technical but it is good information! I had recently started using Wheel Wax but now this got me wondering if it would have some long term side effects:confused:

Sorry, I'll try not to get more technical...Ask around...That's not my nature. :D

The photo of your wheels' SS "inserts" doesn't indicate any long-term effects from your use of American Racing Wheels: Wheel Wax, so far.

Wheel Wax is described as being a:
"Blend of high temperature polymers..."
"It's high temperature synthetic formula..."

Sounds somewhat like a description for sealants, IMO.
I have used Wheel Wax on many wheel surfaces, just not on SS.
Your choice to continuing using it on your SS components, or not.

Once any SS vehicle components have been cleaned/smoothed/buffed to my satisfaction, I will apply Simichrome (or even Flitz, or Autosol) for "protection"...protection from contaminates interfering with SS's "real protection": The chromium-oxide film that should, therefore, be formed.

No additional SS products needed, IMO, for the bling-factor.

I've found that the key to SS retaining its characteristics, for the long haul, is cleanliness.

:)

Bob
 
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