I recently bought the griots farad orbital polisher with uber soft pads. I'm using meguiars mirror glaze 83 to remove defects and I also have mikes auto detailing book. Once I'm polishing I have a few different issues arise I my pad seems to dry before my six passes so I have to stop and re apply or the product dries and everything gets dusty and once I feel the surface it feels hot. Needless to say I'm worried I'm used to a cyclo orbital and decided to step up to this polisher. Somebody help!!
Polishing surface gets hot!
- Thread starter Shane4225
- Start date
Evan.J
New member
- Sep 18, 2012
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Are you priming your pads first then applying 4 dime size drops of product to the pad?
You saying that its drying up so my thought is there isn't enough product on the pad.
What speed are you running the polisher at?
That panels can get warm but should not reach the point where you can't keep the back of you hand on the panel.
What Uber pad are you using?
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
That dab-blamed griots farad orbital polisher is at it again!! 
Hard to tell what the main differences would be between your use of the Cyclo and the GG6" polishers.
A few that comes to mind:
-Machine speed
-Arm speed
-Downward pressure
-Amount of product on one pad vs. two
-Was M83 used on both polishers/pads?
-etc.
I'll suggest to:
Check out Mike Phillips' how-to articles regarding PC-type polishers.
Bob
Hard to tell what the main differences would be between your use of the Cyclo and the GG6" polishers.
A few that comes to mind:
-Machine speed
-Arm speed
-Downward pressure
-Amount of product on one pad vs. two
-Was M83 used on both polishers/pads?
-etc.
I'll suggest to:
Check out Mike Phillips' how-to articles regarding PC-type polishers.
Bob
Legacykid
New member
- Sep 4, 2013
- 451
- 0
I have experienced this as well. I was not priming the pad properly. Mike has a thread about it. beyond that i keep a QD(quick detailer) or something like ONR/IUDJ and sprits the pad.
The heat issue you are experiencing I believe is normal, think friction on anything will cause heat. You do not want to add to much pressure along with that heat, I believe that will cause you issues. After I hit an area I myself notice it is warm (never checked the actual temp) but once I wipe and reapply polish to my pad the paint feels the same as the surrounding area.
Im no expert, so I am sure something else will chime in!
Evan.J
New member
- Sep 18, 2012
- 4,915
- 0
Here is the Priming the pad article:
How To Prime a Foam Pad When Using a DA Polisher
How To Prime a Foam Pad When Using a DA Polisher
- Thread starter
- #6
I'm using a firm orange polishing pad and I prime it like Mike says to in the book using a circle around the outside of the pad and with my finger cover the pad so that there isn't any dry spots. My next question once you make your six passes Mike mentions cleaning your pad by using a terry towel then going to the next I swear I think this is where my problem is coming from I've got to be messing up somewhere
Legacykid
New member
- Sep 4, 2013
- 451
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That is cleaning on the fly, basically prevents excessive build up of the polish on the pad. which will make the polish cake up, and fling polish, etc.
Are you saying this is what is drying out your pad?
- Thread starter
- #8
I don't know for sure but if I am doing it after every section is that to much?
I might be ok maybe I'm using to much pressure I just know it concerns me
spiralout462
New member
- Dec 14, 2012
- 1,771
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Do you have another polish to try? Some are more user friendly than others.
rustytruck
New member
- Feb 20, 2012
- 954
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The $100 Griots is a step up from the $300 cyclo? Just keep using the Cyclo. I have always had good luck with the Cyclo, I just bought a second one so my helper with have one also. I paid more for a 5 year old used Cyclo than I could get a new Griots(with pads) for.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Proven tool to remove swirls and create a show car finish. I haven't used Uber pads but as I always post, choice of foam pad is the least important factor when it comes to polishing paint using common sense. Most important is the abrasive technology, (compounds and polishes), followed by using the correct tool with the correct technique.
M83 Dual Action Polish is a diminishing abrasive polish that's been around since the 1980's I believe. While this product does work with DA Polishers there are much better Meguiar's polishes available now days for use with DA polishers as well as other brands. At one pint there was a lot of confusion about this product as some people thought that because the product uses the words Dual Action for the product name that it was specifically formulated for use with dual action polishers.
I wrote an article about that back in 2007 to clear up the confusion.
The Term "Dual Action" as it relates to M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Well first, hats off to you for paying attention to the task at hand.
M83 is not the wettest product and in a warm environment, low humidity it can dry up sooner than you need. My first recommendation would be to get a more modern medium cut polish.
If you like the Meguiar's brand, then take a look at M101, M105, Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish and M205. All of these are top notch performers and I'm confident you will like working with them more than the M83 as well as get better results faster.
Here's a question...
How large an area are you trying to buff at one time? If you're buffing too large an area you will find the product drying up on you faster than if you work a smaller area.
Try shrinking the size of your work area down. I cover that tip in this article,
Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight
Mike Phillips said:
Do note that it important with any product that abrades the surface to always have a wet film of product on the surface as you buff. Don't buff to a dry buff. Some products say to buff till the product is gone and I always respect the manufacturers directions as they know their product best but fact is when you buff to dry buff you have lost lubricity and the potential for micro-marring exists. So as a practice I personally don't ever buff to a dry buff. See this article,
Wet Buffing Technique
The paint surface can and will get warm, this is normal. What you don't want is HOT.
Below is an article on surface temperatures, if after reading it you feel the paint is getting too hot then reply back here.
Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature
It's possible the paint is getting too hot but in reality, when using a dual action polisher like a Griot's, if the paint is getting too hot this is usually caused by a number of things,
- Lack of lubricity in the product.
- Not enough product.
- Working a small area.
- Working on a urethane or other composite material.
Again, I would recommend updating your compounds and polishes.
- Thread starter
- #12
I was thinking maybe try pinnacle xmt or the griots machine polish
- Thread starter
- #13
Oh don't be mistaken I love my cyclo but sometimes I need something with more power to cut with or I'm work a tight area where the cyclo is just to large
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks for dropping in on this subject Mike!Proven tool to remove swirls and create a show car finish. I haven't used Uber pads but as I always post, choice of foam pad is the least important factor when it comes to polishing paint using common sense. Most important is the abrasive technology, (compounds and polishes), followed by using the correct tool with the correct technique.
M83 Dual Action Polish is a diminishing abrasive polish that's been around since the 1980's I believe. While this product does work with DA Polishers there are much better Meguiar's polishes available now days for use with DA polishers as well as other brands. At one pint there was a lot of confusion about this product as some people thought that because the product uses the words Dual Action for the product name that it was specifically formulated for use with dual action polishers.
I wrote an article about that back in 2007 to clear up the confusion.
The Term "Dual Action" as it relates to M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish
Well first, hats off to you for paying attention to the task at hand.
M83 is not the wettest product and in a warm environment, low humidity it can dry up sooner than you need. My first recommendation would be to get a more modern medium cut polish.
If you like the Meguiar's brand, then take a look at M101, M105, Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish and M205. All of these are top notch performers and I'm confident you will like working with them more than the M83 as well as get better results faster.
Here's a question...
How large an area are you trying to buff at one time? If you're buffing too large an area you will find the product drying up on you faster than if you work a smaller area.
Try shrinking the size of your work area down. I cover that tip in this article,
Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight
Do note that it important with any product that abrades the surface to always have a wet film of product on the surface as you buff. Don't buff to a dry buff. Some products say to buff till the product is gone and I always respect the manufacturers directions as they know their product best but fact is when you buff to dry buff you have lost lubricity and the potential for micro-marring exists. So as a practice I personally don't ever buff to a dry buff. See this article,
Wet Buffing Technique
The paint surface can and will get warm, this is normal. What you don't want is HOT.
Below is an article on surface temperatures, if after reading it you feel the paint is getting too hot then reply back here.
Fight or Flight Method for Gaging Surface Temperature
It's possible the paint is getting too hot but in reality, when using a dual action polisher like a Griot's, if the paint is getting too hot this is usually caused by a number of things,
- Lack of lubricity in the product.
- Not enough product.
- Working a small area.
- Working on a urethane or other composite material.
Again, I would recommend updating your compounds and polishes.
I am still fairly new to doing actual detailing I always keep my car spotless but it was always wash throw on wax and go. That being said now that I am researching other products and how they work I am almost overwhelmed by it all. I mainly chose meguiars simply because I use the M205 often and I love it! I use collinite for my sealant and I have really decided on a wax yet I am trying to find the right one to give me a deep gloss.
The M105 reads like it would be the a good one for me but looking at the scale as far as cutting power I am worried I'll harm my paint by using something to aggressive.
I see you use pinnacle products often so I have actually been thinking of going that route especially as much as I watch your how to videos and refer back to your book which I love by the way.
Again thanks for your input and links!!!!!!!!!!!!