Polishing techniques

T

tuan209

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Hey Guys!

I am long time lurker so I decided to make a post :righton:. Anyways, I was wondering what are some suggestions of the proper techniques to polishing and paint correction. Currently I have the cyclo and here is what I do:

1. Spitz the pads with some QD
2. Apply some polish (usually few pea size dots) on the pads
3. Before I turn on the cyclo, I spread the polish on the pads onto the area I am going to work (usually 2x2). I am wondering if this is necessary?
4. After spreading the product, on the area to be worked, I turn on the cyclo and work the polish until its almost clear.
5. Wipe off polish and check my work.

Are these the correct procedures? If not, I would appreciate it if someone could refine/correct my procedures.

Thanks
Tuan
 
That's the way most use this machine (inc yours truly) only differing opinion is the use of a QD to prime a pad, they all contain silicone and either a polymer or a wax and they all interfere with a polishes cutting ability. FWIW I only use H2O
 
I love your tips. They are very close to what I do. If you're not using the EDGE pads now, you need to. They are the best for the Cyclo. It hardly even feels like a DA! My pads are now 5 months old and are still going strong........I even wash them in the washing machine!

For those who say the Cyclo is week and under powered, you are wrong. To me, it's the PERFECT all around polishing/waxing machine out there.
 
TOGWT said:
That's the way most use this machine (inc yours truly) only differing opinion is the use of a QD to prime a pad, they all contain silicone and either a polymer or a wax and they all interfere with a polishes cutting ability. FWIW I only use H2O
Click to expand...

The two brands of sprays I use to prep pads do not contain silicone and will extend working time of some polishes quite well
Water can increase the cutting ability of a polish so that's why I don't use that

With any machine, I add the drops of product to the surface in one horizontal line and go from right to left with the machine on at 600 rpm to pick up the product and then start with some pressure and move up to 1000, 1200, 1300 to 1500 and back down to 900 then 750 to finish off.

With that technique, there is no splatter and even 1000 grit leveller and a yellow foam pad means LSP ready finish.
Though I continue down the grit scale on complete paint correction jobs
 
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