Poor Tibby needs help

J

jovanie

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After a loooong time lurking in the forums and buying little things, I finally got the "go" to register. This is my situation:

I have an 04 Hyundai Tiburon (paint isn't the best).. it has slept outside in the Caribbean weather for around 6 years. There was a time when I barely washed it (time lapse of 2-3 months) and waxing it wasn't even in mind. Car has been paid off and I needed a hobby, soo I decided to give it a little love. These are pictures of how the paint is:

imag0001dk.jpg

imag0004ho.jpg

imag0002oz.jpg

imag0005am.jpg


as you can see it is badd oxidation, but I know most of it can come out as seen in the following pictures:

imag0003jm.jpg

imag0006t.jpg

imag0007kc.jpg

imag0008y.jpg

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this was done mainly by hand by my 13 year old. After this I bought the pc7424xp along yellow, orang, white, black and a blue 5.5 pad. I also have the following liquids

1. 3m heavy duty compound
2. meguiars 105
3. meguiars 205
4. meguiars swirlx
5. meguiars 3 step (paint cleaner, polish, wax)
6. meguiars #26 yellow wax
7. 3m perfect-it polish glaze

I decided to use the m105 with an orange pad and the 205 with a white pad just a little on half of one of the side pillars to see if the pc did anything and I was really glad with the results. It was not done currectly, since I just wanted to to a small section and only spent about 10 minutes. After about 5 days some of the haze came back.

I think maybe I should try to use the yellow pad with the 105. Anyways just posting to get some ideas, opinions, etc. I have heard wonders of collinite845, since I'm not that of a detail freak, maybe it should be a good investment AFTER I do a little correcting.

would you guys use the following process:

1. wash
2. clay
3. m105 with yellow
4. m205 with white
5. #26

should I just skip the 26 and buy the 845... ufff long post, please recommend.

Pay no attention to the hood, since it is getting replaced. The only part with oxidation is the "upper" parts
 
I am by far no expert but I would try 845 prior the Meg wax. Someone else may chime in but I think you could skip the Meg wax and just do two coats of 845. You said that after five days the haze came back...did you wax after the polish?

You may not need the yellow pad but testing is the only way to find out.

Good luck!
 
One cannot turn burned toast back into fresh bread...but one can always scrape away some of the black.

My two cents hand.
Happy detailing...:autowash:...forum friend!
 
I also have Pinnacle XMT Fine Swirl Remover and Carnauba Finishing Glaze
 
It would be interesting to see a taped off section with Megs MF pads with D300 or M105. Looks similar to clear coat failure though
 
Your vehicle can definitely be cosmetically enhanced and fleetingly blinged out hand.

https://autogeekonline.net/threads/49080/

Look at the twin bulbs at the 9 o'clock position on the photo showing the hood - 5th photo down from the top. You can see the underlying failure in the haziness of the bulbs.

Not to mention that this vehicle probably was not in the shape of your current finish.

I suggest shooting the OP a pm seeking his advice based on your photos.
 
thanks for the link VT... will try to contact him.
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Your vehicle can definitely be cosmetically enhanced and fleetingly blinged out hand.

https://autogeekonline.net/threads/49080/

Look at the twin bulbs at the 9 o'clock position on the photo showing the hood - 5th photo down from the top. You can see the underlying failure in the haziness of the bulbs.

Not to mention that this vehicle probably was not in the shape of your current finish.

I suggest shooting the OP a pm seeking his advice based on your photos.
Click to expand...

Hey guys. I can see in your pics that your paint is pretty beat up, but I can't tell in your pics it your clear is toast in some places? I'm not familiar with megs compounds and polishes. I've always used menzerna and on the paticular car in my post I only used power finish on an LC orange pad with my flex3401. While this is considered a very mild cut I didn't want to push the paint any harder with all the dead paint that was coming off onto my pads. Could you post a pic of a bad section corrected? Again while I'm sure you'll have to get aggressive with it, but if your clear is thin I wouldn't push it. This is what my pad looked like.
IMG_8139.jpg
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Your vehicle can definitely be cosmetically enhanced and fleetingly blinged out hand.
Click to expand...

Cosmetically=non correctable. Lipstick on a pig type fix.
Fleetingly=for a short duration. Not worth the effort or $$$.

Newdetailer1 said:
Hey guys. I can see in your pics that your paint is pretty beat up, but I can't tell in your pics it your clear is toast in some places? I'm not familiar with megs compounds and polishes. I've always used menzerna and on the paticular car in my post I only used power finish on an LC orange pad with my flex3401. While this is considered a very mild cut I didn't want to push the paint any harder with all the dead paint that was coming off onto my pads. Could you post a pic of a bad section corrected? Again while I'm sure you'll have to get aggressive with it, but if your clear is thin I wouldn't push it. This is what my pad looked like.
IMG_8139.jpg
Click to expand...

+1.

A lot of work for little gain.
On another note hand...what part of the Caribbean do you reside?
 
Im doing all this until i close up the garage, might be a year.

Is there anyway to get that haze away or "hide" it for a longer time? The small part i did looked great... It still looks "good", but at different angles i can see the haze, when first done, no haze was visible
 
Thanks guys for helping me out... Cant wait for the PR weather to get better, but I have a question... After washing, claying, washing and using the m105/m205 combo would it be benificial to use a paint cleaner before wax or Im I repeating steps
 
Some will say overkill, but if using AIO, like XMT 360, it will clean up leftover residue as well as seal before waxing.

I would move the 2nd wash to a different part of your process instead of after claying.

What processes have you done so far besides your test spot?
 
Its been rainning for over a week, soo basically nothing
 
10-04.
Forcast has been worse than actual conditions here.
At least I was able to perform all scheduled maint.washes this week and got calendar set for next week.
Good luck and hopefully others will chime in with their advice.

Happy detailing...:buffing:
 
a little update, just in case anyone cares :xyxthumbs:

I decided to take a couple of minutes yesterday and tape off a square on the body just to see if there was any difference after the process.

I did the following using my pc7424xp

1. clayed the spot with mes clay
2. 3m rubbing compund with lc orange pad
3. m105 with lc orange pad
4. m205 with lc white pad
5. I had pinnacle carnauba glaze I put with lc black pad
6. applied m26 yellow liquid by hand

you guys be the judge (pics were taken from my phone)

BEFORE

imag0312x.jpg



imag0313o.jpg


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AFTER

imag0315m.jpg


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imag0318tx.jpg


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imag0320g.jpg



imag0321q.jpg



I will leave it like that for 1 or 2 weeks to see what happens. The paint looks great, but what would be the cause if it hazes back? What can I do to prevent it?

thanks for the help guys
 
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