Porsche Detailing Help

[StangFan25]

Why do you suggest NOT letting soap dwell on the vehicle?


Tell me more about washing a vehicle with "hair conditioner".

Thanks




.

I'd like to hear more on this too, and maybe he can provide pics too! ☺

 

[Eldorado2k]

*subscribed to this thread*

 

[knowlan22]

I see the marring,I highly doubt that was caused by a wash.your polishing method was in order but I think you need a pad with more bite.Those are kinda deep for a wash,switch to a micro pad.

Let me get some better pics next week so I can really show you guys. For whatever reason, the marring is practically invisible until I get it out into the sun then they appear. I wish I could do it today however leaving for a business trip.

Also - I was using a yellow hex-logic cutting pad on my compounding run so I currently don't have anything that cuts harder and I'm a bit afraid to go any higher, as Chemical Guys suggest yellow for the worst paint correction scenarios.

Due to my inexperience, I don't know what level of marring I am dealing with. They look like light scratches but the orange pad and Ultimate Compound didn't seem enough. Maybe it would have if I did two passes or even improved my technique??

This is definitely more art than science!!

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[GSKR]

I spray the car off thoroughly, then soak it once with the foam gun and give it time to sit. While that is working, I clean the wheels with a wheel only microfiber wash mit. Once done with the wheels, I rinse off the car again, and start working from top to bottom, using the foam gun to spray the panel, use a microfiber mit to work the suds and a bucket with a grit guard to rinse the mit.

I think I have improved my wash technique to the point that it should not be creating new marks on the clear. I believe the marring I am still seeing on the car may have been from one of the following:

1) Meg. Ultimate Compound is not strong enough for my needs
2) Using the wrong technique... should I need to be using a yellow hex-logic pad and applying pressure to get swirl marks off a 6 month old Porsche
3) Are the products I am using just concealing the marks and not actually removing them?

Here is a video shot from my phone that shows the type of marks I am trying to get rid of: https://goo.gl/photos/Ea9z1UpK3z7TytqL6

And here are two still shots that show the swirl marks I was originally working on:
https://goo.gl/photos/msMUZ7qJc5o6AbdE9

I would get a new wash mitt,those look kinda rugged and a magnet for deep embedded contamination.

 

[GSKR]

Buy a water Sprite synthetic chamoi to dry exterior of car,and use a dedicated towel for jambs.when done with chamoi put it in a bucket of water and let it sit in there till your next wash regime as this will be extra soft the next time you use it.

 

[knowlan22]

I would get a new wash mitt,those look kinda rugged and a magnet for deep embedded contamination.

The one on the left is brand new however the right has seen some use, thus the delegation to lower trim.

Any recommendations on better wash mits?

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[knowlan22]

Buy a water Sprite synthetic chamoi to dry exterior of car,and use a dedicated towel for jambs.when done with chamoi put it in a bucket of water and let it sit in there till your next wash regime as this will be extra soft the next time you use it.

Interesting that you suggest a chamois for drying, as that is what I previously used prior to the Griots waffle microfiber towel. It was my understanding that microfiber is safer for drying than chamois?

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[Cabrio]

The one on the left is brand new however the right has seen some use, thus the delegation to lower trim.

Any recommendations on better wash mits?

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Aussie Merino or Wookie's fist! Talk about plush wash mits. I have both. Also, if you are willing to pull the trigger on forced air to dry, check out the master blaster. You will need a 25 amp circuit to use both motors.

 

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

The one on the left is brand new however the right has seen some use, thus the delegation to lower trim.

Any recommendations on better wash mits?

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I use the regular old microfiber wash pad you can buy at Auto Zone. I tried it out after watching a Junkman vid. He specifically says the one from Auto Zone, dunno how much of a difference it makes but it's working for me.

I tried a wookie for awhile but those giant hair strands held onto anything they may have come in contact with.


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[JeffM]

Optimum no rinse with a grit guard is pretty darn safe. The yellow one with wax is just as good depending on your topper.

If you used essence it would fill semi permanently those defects with a polishing pad.

 

[Cabrio]

I use the regular old microfiber wash pad you can buy at Auto Zone. I tried it out after watching a Junkman vid. He specifically says the one from Auto Zone, dunno how much of a difference it makes but it's working for me.

I tried a wookie for awhile but those giant hair strands held onto anything they may have come in contact with.


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Haha! You are so right. I do have to inspect areas such as the door latches, badges to see/remove any of the fibers. I do love these mits though, it's butter.

 

[ivygreen]

The thread has pretty much become wash technique/products, but you may still be interested to hear what I came up with for my Porsche paint. I have a black Carrera cab. For years, I wrestled with trying to get the paint where I wanted it. Porsche paint is quite soft. Combine that softness with black and UGH!

I tried countless combinations, but I could never get it right. In fact, several of my go-to products made it worse instead of better. Finally, I stumbled upon this:

Menz 1500 - Orange Lake Country
then
Menz 4500 - White Lake Country
then
Blackfire Wet Diamond Paint Protection - Black Lake Country
and lastly
Pinnacle Souveran by hand

Try it...

 

[cardaddy]

What you're seeing isn't actually "marring" as that's what we tend to get from the DA when buffing. It's more like swirls, or even RIDS. RIDS doesn't have to actually be a "deep" scratch, (although it does have the "D" in it) but it does designate what we're seeing when there are 'random' scratches.

I wouldn't even think about microfiber pads on that paint. Not unless you want to deal with micro-marring/DA haze.


You mentioned, maybe you go over it TWICE. :dunno:

If you're only doing a single section, and doing it one pass, THAT isn't enough.
You should be going over each section at least 4~6 times, even with the Megs SMAT based products.

I did see where you were marking your sections, (and obviously taking notes). :dblthumb2: That's the one critical thing I've been saying to first time guys for years.

Good follow through on that!rops:

What you might want to do is take two sections, same compound, same pad, same machine speed, same arm speed, SAME amount of passes. Use a bit more pressure on one section and note the results. Then do everything the same, but use a different pad.

As far as arm pressure... you should be compressing the pad a bit while it's doing work. Not smashing it flat, but if it's an inch thick, you need to take at least ¼" out of it by pressing down when buffing.

Can't say about Hex Logic, don't use them. But... as always... use the least aggressive pad to get the most work done.

Aussie Merino or Wookie's fist! Talk about plush wash mits. I have both. Also, if you are willing to pull the trigger on forced air to dry, check out the master blaster. You will need a 25 amp circuit to use both motors.

I *TOTALLY* agree with a Merino mitt on your 'favorite' toy.
The red paint on my Infiniti scratches or chips if you even LOOK at it funny! Switching to a Merino mitt for it was the best thing I've ever done.

(DO MAKE SURE that you follow good habits when washing/rinsing/drying the mitt after you use it. I'll wash mine till it runs clear, then wash it twice more! Then I'll sit it on top of a bottle of Coke on the kitchen counter so air can get inside it. It'll be dry the next day or so, then take a coarse comb and comb it out. I use a aluminum comb with teeth that are ¼" apart and it works great. )

Drying.....
I'd do ANYTHING I COULD to avoid wiping a towel on the surface. Your dedicated 12 amp blower is your best friend there. :xyxthumbs: (Don't just look at MPH ratings when shopping, but check CFM ratings first, then get the fastest MPH with the highest CFM.)

With what little water that's left after air drying you can use a soft GOOD microfiber, with a QD spray (Duragloss Aquawax is EXCELLENT), or any spray wax / spray sealant and remove what little water is left.

FWIW, you can actually dilute Aquawax (being as it's made to use on a wet vehicle should you so desire). I'd dilute it ONLY with distilled water though.

I also wouldn't even THINK about some sort of shammy/chamois.

If you MUST use a towel to dry, then a quality waffle weave is your best bet. The Cobra Guzzler that's foam core is pretty darned good. Also... you should search for Korean waffle weave towels. (There is a great place out in San Diego that has them.) This of course is if you just must use a big ol' waffle weave to dry with. I have ww's from 300 up to as thick as they make, and honestly... the big white ones (with "dry me" and "river" in their name) scare me. It's just too hard, too heavy, and too big. There is however one that has 'pluffle' in it's name (from the same guys) that looks like a good darned towel!

I'll generally use a 530 GSM towel with a bit of spray wax or sealant and call the drying done.

The go back with my edgeless Korean towels (not from the pluffle guys... but the other ones... because THAT towel is actually thicker/heavier, even though it's only called a "470" it's over 500) for LSP final wipe and call it a day.