Porter Cable 7424xp problems?

marknett

marknett

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Porter Cable 7424XP bought 10-30-16. First, let me say that I have never owned or used a DA so I have no knowledge to compare to. When I first got the polisher , It did not seem to want to turn correctly. After talking about it on here , I thought maybe I'm pressing to hard. I have to have the unit on at least 5 or it will not spin when against the paint. It will stop turning constantly even with no down pressure. I can float the pad from the car and it takes 1 to 2 seconds before it will start back spinning. Seems it's worst about it on vertical surfaces. I s this normal? Like I said , I have nothing to compare against. Any suggestions? Oh and yes I do have the compression washer in. I using a 5" hook and loop back plate with 6.5" pads . Mostly the ones that came with the kit (CCS . So, Is it me or the machine? :help:
 
I use 5.5" pads and have no problems unless I'm pushing too hard. I only apply enough pressure to keep the pad flat on the surface. Let the machine do the work.

I have a full sized truck so I have plenty of vertical surface to use it on.
 
That is a lot of pad for the PC to turn if they are 6.5" CCS smart pads. You will probably have to crank it up to 6 with those. Draw a line on your backing plate wth black marker so you can tell if it is rotating. Ease up on the pressure until it rotates at the speed you desire. Thin pads no bigger than 5.5" work best on that machine. Vertical panels that are not flat will definitely increase the problem.
 
I agree 5.5 inch pads are the way to go. I don't know why they include 6.5 inch pads with that package. If you have an pads new and unopened I would try to exchange them.
 
All good advice so far.

Another thing I note that will bog down the PC D/A, even with 5.5" Pads and a 5" Backing Plate, is a Pad that becomes fairly saturated with products being used.

That after 2, or 3 panels max, swap the pad for a fresh one, and begin again.

Cleaning on the fly helps some, but still it is wise to have a good number of any given pad type on hand when correcting.

That they not only saturate, but also get loaded up with various other nasties that shouldn't be in the mix with the correcting products being used.

Even with a 5" Backing Plate, and 5.5" Pads, speed 5 on the dial will be usually the speed needed for correcting with some assurance of regularity of pad rotation.
 
Ok , Thanks for the advise. 5.5" pads and swap regularly. I hope this helps. I was starting to think this thing was broke
 
Are you keeping the pad flat? Maybe using the included handle?

A tilted pad will be less inclined to spin.
 
I tend to use 5.5" pad, have you drawn lines on your pad in order to see if the plate is spinning? I apply enough to have control over the machine but light enough to keep the plate spinning, too much pressure will just have the plate sit still and machine to vibrate. When you are done doing a pass just keep the machine still in the surface until it stops or else you will run into the life the bearings fast!
 
I will try it with the handle and see if that helps. I have a black backing plate so I added a piece of green tape for spinning reference. I think the biggest issue may be the 6.5" pads. I will remember the waiting till it stops before lifting also.
 
6.5" pads are too big and a 5" DA backing plate and 5.5" (thin) pads would definitely be a must for the PCXP. however, with the GG6 (why i recommend it so much) has plenty of torque/power to rotate both...
 
GG6 will still stall a 5.5" pad but no where near easily as a PC24XP. I can't see any reason why anyone would choose a PC over a GG6.
 
aztec1987 said:
I tend to use 5.5" pad, have you drawn lines on your pad in order to see if the plate is spinning? I apply enough to have control over the machine but light enough to keep the plate spinning, too much pressure will just have the plate sit still and machine to vibrate. When you are done doing a pass just keep the machine still in the surface until it stops or else you will run into the life the bearings fast!
Click to expand...

Yea, what you said lastly, and also will sling product all over the place if you lift the machine off the paint while still running.
 
Use thin pads and not too much product.

DA will not spin (by design) on curved surfaces.

If it is flat on the paint it should turn with a fair amount of downforce.

Try a section on the hood or trunk and test your technique.

Smaller difference between pad size and backing plate will also help.
 
marknett said:
I will try it with the handle and see if that helps. I have a black backing plate so I added a piece of green tape for spinning reference. I think the biggest issue may be the 6.5" pads. I will remember the waiting till it stops before lifting also.
Click to expand...

No, I meant that using the handle would do more harm than good.
 
I've run 6.5" pads on my 1st gen PC no problem. I can only attribute the issues to, too much pressure, too much angle, or not positioning yourself correctly in relation to the vehicle.
 
Yes , The problem was definitely me. I just got through doing the girlfriends car. I even used some 6.5" pads without issues .I think the problem was mainly I had the pad I was using saturated. Thanks for the help
 
I tend to use 6 pea size dot product scattered around the pad, mostly 5 pea size close to the edge of the pad, 1 pea size in the center of the pad. Then I will spread the product by blotting softly around my area 2' x 2' section at a time and then begin working.
 
dlc95 said:
No, I meant that using the handle would do more harm than good.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't say using the handle does more harm than good, in the sense that it's not going to add any considerable weight to the machine, and be the cause of bogging.

I use the PC both ways, with and without handle. I feel at times, the handle can give a little better control of the machine, usually on horizontal surfaces, offers a better hold, and can help at times with insuring you're running the pads flat to the panel surface. We PC owners all know how sensitive a machine like the PC can be with a Pad ever so slightly canted against the body panels.
 
If I have to try correcting with a PC, I always put it on 6 and not a lot of pressure to allow it to keep rotating. If I'm just doing a final polish, I don't worry about it spinning. I use mostly hexalogic pads, so the edge isn't smooth and easy to see if is spinning so I've never bothered to mark them, and my backing plate has seen a lot of use so has enough markings on it to see if it's spinning. I have a Flex now that I use most of the time so I don't even bother trying to do any correcting with the PC, which actually sounds like is about to blow up now. It's about 3 years old, but hasn't been put to full time use so I would have expected it to last longer. But now it's making a lot of clacking noises inside, which is why I upgraded.
 
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