I would like to create a post to show and explain just how powerful a PC can be. I've read a lot, and see a lot of videos where the capabilities of a PC are said to be limited.
Direct drive DA's are constantly reviewed as the cats behind and steps above the PC. Rotary polishers are the end all, be all to correction. All with their drawbacks.
However, between my PC and DeWalt, I've yet to see why I would need to upgrade to direct drive DA.
In fact, I prefer my PC in almost all instances, except for wet sanding 'fingers' and very large vehicles (full size truck hoods, large roofs, etc).
I began detailing from home in 2005. I began on my 3 personal vehicles and slowly progressed to friends, family and then to outside customers. I have to admit years ago, I did struggle at times to remove severe defects like scratches that had white residue from the severe damage to the clear, extreme swirls from heavy abuse and poor washing, etc. I could always make the finished product look great for the customer, but I felt like I could've done better. I would remove 99% of the swirls and struggle a bit with the hidden scratches beneath those swirls. Back then I had not discovered my near perfect combination of pads & products. I primarily used Optimum products and still produced great results, but I honestly struggled with that stubborn breed of scratches - the kind every detailer shakes their head at after the initial cut & inspection.
In recent years I've taken my work into a family owned used car dealership and the work load, available working time & need for top notch results forced me into experimenting with pad brands & polish combinations.
Recently I have ventured into my own, dedicated detailing shop with a partner and have seemingly found a combination that has worked well for me, except for some of the vehicles that come through with ceramic clear. During the dealership days I jumped onto the rotary, as I felt I could shave some time off my work with the almighty more powerful machine. Yes, at times it's taken an 8hr vehicle and turned it into a 5-6hr job, primarily on the mammoth SUV'S and crew cab trucks which I can't ever seem to get away from at times in my 4 season location. But the rotary hasn't always been the answer, and I always finish out the vehicle with my PC. I was insistent on finding a solution to make the PC my go to machine and make it work effectively.
My most successful cutting combination has been Hex Logic Yellow with Meguiars 105. The first time I attempted this combination I giggled like a school boy at how quickly even one completed section application removed 95% of the swirls and greatly diminished scratches. Yes, you think of yellow pads as a last resort, as it's very aggresive. It is, I'm not sure how often I'd use a yellow pad with a direct drive, and I'd likely never attach a yellow pad to a rotary. I suppose it wouldn't take much working time to leave the car with very little remaining clear coat. But with the 'underpowered' PC, I do not fear this.
I recently attacked a red F250 King Ranch with 105,000 miles. It was a dealer truck headed to auction. The paint was swirled worse than I've ever seen and had turned into a hazy brown/bronze color. I figured I would shoot for an Orange pad on my Rotary with M105. I got results, quickly. Still had some random RIDS in a few areas in a 2x2 area that required another complete work. I then tossed my PC and hex logic yellow pad at it with M105. Half way through my initial section pass, curiosity killed the cat and I decided to wipe the area clean. Bam. Swirl free, scratch free. That initial cut had removed all swirls and removed all RIDS, the only thing left behind were very deep scratches in the clear that weren't worth jeopardizing the life span of the remaining clear.
Now I must admit, I have not done a lot of experimenting with various pad combinations & polishes with my DeWalt, but I can say I've managed to find a great combination with my PC that has allowed me to keep utilizing my 'entry level' machine that can remove horrific defects with less work, less finish & far less worry of burning through.
I'm sure the Flex & more powerful DA's are great. I haven't had the pleasure of using them, but I am perfectly happy with my PC & product combination. Maybe when I have a few extra bucks I will purchase a direct drive DA and see the difference myself. For now, I'll stick with my workhorse PC.
Direct drive DA's are constantly reviewed as the cats behind and steps above the PC. Rotary polishers are the end all, be all to correction. All with their drawbacks.
However, between my PC and DeWalt, I've yet to see why I would need to upgrade to direct drive DA.
In fact, I prefer my PC in almost all instances, except for wet sanding 'fingers' and very large vehicles (full size truck hoods, large roofs, etc).
I began detailing from home in 2005. I began on my 3 personal vehicles and slowly progressed to friends, family and then to outside customers. I have to admit years ago, I did struggle at times to remove severe defects like scratches that had white residue from the severe damage to the clear, extreme swirls from heavy abuse and poor washing, etc. I could always make the finished product look great for the customer, but I felt like I could've done better. I would remove 99% of the swirls and struggle a bit with the hidden scratches beneath those swirls. Back then I had not discovered my near perfect combination of pads & products. I primarily used Optimum products and still produced great results, but I honestly struggled with that stubborn breed of scratches - the kind every detailer shakes their head at after the initial cut & inspection.
In recent years I've taken my work into a family owned used car dealership and the work load, available working time & need for top notch results forced me into experimenting with pad brands & polish combinations.
Recently I have ventured into my own, dedicated detailing shop with a partner and have seemingly found a combination that has worked well for me, except for some of the vehicles that come through with ceramic clear. During the dealership days I jumped onto the rotary, as I felt I could shave some time off my work with the almighty more powerful machine. Yes, at times it's taken an 8hr vehicle and turned it into a 5-6hr job, primarily on the mammoth SUV'S and crew cab trucks which I can't ever seem to get away from at times in my 4 season location. But the rotary hasn't always been the answer, and I always finish out the vehicle with my PC. I was insistent on finding a solution to make the PC my go to machine and make it work effectively.
My most successful cutting combination has been Hex Logic Yellow with Meguiars 105. The first time I attempted this combination I giggled like a school boy at how quickly even one completed section application removed 95% of the swirls and greatly diminished scratches. Yes, you think of yellow pads as a last resort, as it's very aggresive. It is, I'm not sure how often I'd use a yellow pad with a direct drive, and I'd likely never attach a yellow pad to a rotary. I suppose it wouldn't take much working time to leave the car with very little remaining clear coat. But with the 'underpowered' PC, I do not fear this.
I recently attacked a red F250 King Ranch with 105,000 miles. It was a dealer truck headed to auction. The paint was swirled worse than I've ever seen and had turned into a hazy brown/bronze color. I figured I would shoot for an Orange pad on my Rotary with M105. I got results, quickly. Still had some random RIDS in a few areas in a 2x2 area that required another complete work. I then tossed my PC and hex logic yellow pad at it with M105. Half way through my initial section pass, curiosity killed the cat and I decided to wipe the area clean. Bam. Swirl free, scratch free. That initial cut had removed all swirls and removed all RIDS, the only thing left behind were very deep scratches in the clear that weren't worth jeopardizing the life span of the remaining clear.
Now I must admit, I have not done a lot of experimenting with various pad combinations & polishes with my DeWalt, but I can say I've managed to find a great combination with my PC that has allowed me to keep utilizing my 'entry level' machine that can remove horrific defects with less work, less finish & far less worry of burning through.
I'm sure the Flex & more powerful DA's are great. I haven't had the pleasure of using them, but I am perfectly happy with my PC & product combination. Maybe when I have a few extra bucks I will purchase a direct drive DA and see the difference myself. For now, I'll stick with my workhorse PC.
