Potent pre cleansing soap solution for foam cannon

The 'off label' usage, causes more usage of product benefiting seller. It's probably, well if they want to believe that, Okay, will just sell more.

What makes you think that they weren't simply fooled by the same beading-killing that has lead many of us to assume that products strip LSP's?
 
Might I suggest step 1 from this system? Finish Kare Paint Decontamination System, auto paint cleaning system, de-contamination solution

Or perhaps just foaming the car with an APC.

I forgot all about the Finish Kare Decon System. Thanks for bringing that up Mike.

Foam the vehicle with APC? Hmmm. For just a pre soaking routine to saturate the surface it would probably be pretty effective. Especially if you mix it a bit on the stronger side.

What dilution do you think? I know I use Meguiar's D101 APC at 1:4 for exterior work. I wonder how that would work as a pre soak from a foam cannon.

I bet it would foam like all get out!!!

I've referenced this several times before but here's a little test that Steve did, he also did another one prior. I believe what was found was that a strong acid will remove some very durable products, but not much else will strip including solvents & neat APC.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ock-blackhole-wolfgang-dgps-blackfire-wd.html

I do a pre-foam soak with a combo of CG CW+G and Ultimate Snow Foam/Bilt Hamber Surfex HD. This does a great job of loosening stuff, and lesser waxes will be removed, but anything durable will still remain.

If I really want an existing LSP gone, I will utilize an abrasive method.

I remember his thread. Very surprising to see what it took to rid the LSP's from the surface.

Thanks for adding in what you use Bob.
 
I forgot all about the Finish Kare Decon System. Thanks for bringing that up Mike.

What dilution do you think? I know I use Meguiar's D101 APC at 1:4 for exterior work. I wonder how that would work as a pre soak from a foam cannon.

I actually dislike the petroleum distillate stink of FK Step 1, I'm told the A step of the competing ABC system isn't like that.

I would probably use OPC if I was going to do an APC washdown (because I perceive it as being a little more paint-safe), which is of course a lot more expensive than D101. I'm sure the standard 1:3 OPC dilution would work well, or even 1:4, you'd have to figure out how to make sure you were getting that thru your foam cannon.

I was going to bring this up before but if I'm not mistaken, they do a lot more "snow foaming" in Europe or at least the UK, so you maybe have access there to some better products than we do for this.
 
Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy:
What makes you think that they weren't simply fooled by the same beading-killing that has lead many of us to assume that products strip LSP's?

My point exactly, they were fooled, & CG allowed it to continue, or did not discourage, the belief that CWG 1oz/1gal. would strip. They can fall back on product label & literature, we did not make that claim. While we consumed more product than necessary. It's a little left handed!
 
ok, this may be a dumb question but if you're looking to strip LSP what about Dawn?
 
I was going to bring this up before but if I'm not mistaken, they do a lot more "snow foaming" in Europe or at least the UK, so you maybe have access there to some better products than we do for this.

Will do some research on products/techniques used on this side of the pond for this purpose. Thanks for your help Mike.

Will get back when I do.

ok, this may be a dumb question but if you're looking to strip LSP what about Dawn?

There are no dumb questions. Only the ones that are not asked.

Unless the LSP is right at its: end-of-life expectancy...
Nope...not gonna happen.


Bob

Agreed.
 
It took me 4 wipe downs with Prepsol on a panel to remove WG 3.0 that was just applied and that was with totally wetting the panel and letting it dwell for a long time.

Well, how often are we trying to strip fresh sealants that were just applied like in these quoted tests? Like practically never!

I'm stripping cars that either are neglected and maybe have a OTC spray wax or some lame spray on sealant from the car wash on it. Or it is a car that that I previously done like 6-8 months ago and the sealant is at the end of its life.

CG Citrus Red @ 1oz per gal and then 1oz of the CG Strong Cleaner on top of that. Does it strip weak sealants? It sure seems to. How do you explain that squeaky clean feel the paint has after using it? It mainly feels like paint after its polished. There's no slickness from the LSP left at all. How are the surfactants creating that feel too?

Regardless of whether it stripped the LSP totally, I am degreasing with a very strong cleaner.

So I am not wasting anything.
 
IMO, the dwell time of the soap is more beneficial as a pre step prior washing utilizing the 2BM. Yes, the potency and dilution ratio is important as well, but using a foam cannon dilutes the wash product to a point where the potency is not much of a factor anymore. My favorite soap atm is AF avalanche. I've gotten 5 min dwell time from it. Give it a shot.
 
It took me 4 wipe downs with Prepsol on a panel to remove WG 3.0 that was just applied and that was with totally wetting the panel and letting it dwell for a long time.

Well, how often are we trying to strip fresh sealants that were just applied like in these quoted tests? Like practically never!

I'm stripping cars that either are neglected and maybe have a OTC spray wax or some lame spray on sealant from the car wash on it. Or it is a car that that I previously done like 6-8 months ago and the sealant is at the end of its life.

I don't believe any of the sealants used were allowed their recommended cure time, so one could argue that these weren't truly ready for service and may represent a partially degraded LSP. Long ago I think Todd H had mentioned that blackfire is 80% cured by the time it's wiped off, so that may be an outlying result.

Steve's test also showed that a quality sealant will hold up over the top of a glaze (with only slightly diminished durability), which could lead one to believe going over an old LSP may not be as terrible we sometimes think.
 
Well, how often are we trying to strip fresh sealants that were just applied like in these quoted tests? Like practically never!

Oh I'm not trying to strip fresh LSP's.

I'm stripping cars that either are neglected and maybe have a OTC spray wax or some lame spray on sealant from the car wash on it. Or it is a car that that I previously done like 6-8 months ago and the sealant is at the end of its life.

This is what I am after.

I'm sure a pre wash foaming with Snow Soap is stripping these products as well as softening the dirt and road film from the surface.

I was asking about other products that fill the pre wash/foaming stage

My favorite soap atm is AF avalanche. I've gotten 5 min dwell time from it. Give it a shot.

I have looked this one over. Seems like one of the popular pre wash foams in use on this side of the pond.
 
It's very simple to test this for yourself. Spray some water on your car and note the beading. Clean the paint with whatever strong solution you like-- then spray some water on the car--the beading is gone so you assume the LSP is gone. Now give the paint an IPA wipe down--spray water on the car again --- magically the beading re-appears. The water based strong cleaners leave surfactants behind that make the water spread on the paint and the IPA wipe down removes them so the LSP is exposed again thus the water beads again.

I tested this on 8 month old DG 105. First I washed the car with CG Red (which is the original wash that CG claimed would remove LSPs) at one oz per gallon, but also added one oz of 3D Orange Degreaser per gallon of water--washed the car with a good 3-5 minute dwell time, rinsed well and dried. There was no beading left on the car. Gave it an IPA wipe down and the beading re-appeared. Then on the same paint used Griots Paint Prep as per instructions with the same results--beading was gone then re-appeared after the IPA wipe down.

You can do this simple test with any product you happen to be using.

However, I still use CG Red at one oz per gallon when I'm going to clay and polish--as was mentioned -- I want to get the paint as clean as possible before I start rubbing on it with anything.
 
I've referenced this several times before but here's a little test that Steve did, he also did another one prior. I believe what was found was that a strong acid will remove some very durable products, but not much else will strip including solvents & neat APC.

Sealant Test: PowerLock (+/-) BlackHole, Wolfgang DGPS, & BlackFire WD

I do a pre-foam soak with a combo of CG CW+G and Ultimate Snow Foam/Bilt Hamber Surfex HD. This does a great job of loosening stuff, and lesser waxes will be removed, but anything durable will still remain.

If I really want an existing LSP gone, I will utilize an abrasive method.

Griots paint prep strips LSP it's sold for only that purpose
 
It's very simple to test this for yourself. Spray some water on your car and note the beading. Clean the paint with whatever strong solution you like-- then spray some water on the car--the beading is gone so you assume the LSP is gone. Now give the paint an IPA wipe down--spray water on the car again --- magically the beading re-appears. The water based strong cleaners leave surfactants behind that make the water spread on the paint and the IPA wipe down removes them so the LSP is exposed again thus the water beads again.

I tested this on 8 month old DG 105. First I washed the car with CG Red (which is the original wash that CG claimed would remove LSPs) at one oz per gallon, but also added one oz of 3D Orange Degreaser per gallon of water--washed the car with a good 3-5 minute dwell time, rinsed well and dried. There was no beading left on the car. Gave it an IPA wipe down and the beading re-appeared. Then on the same paint used Griots Paint Prep as per instructions with the same results--beading was gone then re-appeared after the IPA wipe down.

You can do this simple test with any product you happen to be using.

However, I still use CG Red at one oz per gallon when I'm going to clay and polish--as was mentioned -- I want to get the paint as clean as possible before I start rubbing on it with anything.

Water will bead on sheet metal it doesn't have to have a wax on it to bead
 
What makes you think that they weren't simply fooled by the same beading-killing that has lead many of us to assume that products strip LSP's?

What about all the beading that is fooling alot of you into thinking the LSP is definitely still there? I understand what Mike says about needing to polish to make sure the LSP is gone but that could be tedious. Are u supposed to do an extra polishing step? I think if I use snow soap, griots garage paint prep and then clay my LSP should be gone even if it's new?

What about all these no abrasive paint cleaners like pinnacle paint cleansing lotion? Surely they remove lsp
 
I forgot all about the Finish Kare Decon System. Thanks for bringing that up Mike.

Foam the vehicle with APC? Hmmm. For just a pre soaking routine to saturate the surface it would probably be pretty effective. Especially if you mix it a bit on the stronger side.

What dilution do you think? I know I use Meguiar's D101 APC at 1:4 for exterior work. I wonder how that would work as a pre soak from a foam cannon.

I bet it would foam like all get out!!!



I remember his thread. Very surprising to see what it took to rid the LSP's from the surface.

Thanks for adding in what you use Bob.

So what's that look like? Do you have to do an extra polish and stuff just to get rid of the wax and then the regular pulse and step you're going to do anyway
 
I've referenced this several times before but here's a little test that Steve did, he also did another one prior. I believe what was found was that a strong acid will remove some very durable products, but not much else will strip including solvents & neat APC.

Sealant Test: PowerLock (+/-) BlackHole, Wolfgang DGPS, & BlackFire WD

I do a pre-foam soak with a combo of CG CW+G and Ultimate Snow Foam/Bilt Hamber Surfex HD. This does a great job of loosening stuff, and lesser waxes will be removed, but anything durable will still remain.

If I really want an existing LSP gone, I will utilize an abrasive method.

That thread doesn't prove anything. It's not like it's a scientific study. You can get beading on bare clear coat to you know
 
IMO:
If the quality-level of previously applied LSPs
were to be anywhere near worthy of their
weight-in-salt; then: the way to ensure
the paint has actually been "stripped naked"
of those previous LSPs, is by polishing.



Bob

Agree.
 
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