I bought a Troy Bilt 2500 PSI 2.3GPM pressure washer about 5 years ago at Lowes for $300. The pump lasted maybe 6 months with light use (around 10-15 hours total). I think the pump was just very low quality so it didn't last. Anyways, I ended up buying a brand new pump for $200 from pressurewashersdirect.com (2600 psi 2.5 gpm axial pump). It took maybe 15 minutes to install myself. it's been working ever since. If I were to buy a gas pressure washer again, I'd buy one with a GX Honda Engine & CAT Pump.
The most important part of owning ANY pressure washer is routine maintenance or it won't work next season.
Here's some tips I use for my gas pressure washer.
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At the end of fall ALWAYS winterize your pressure washer pump. (very important)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqAIpEUsSM0
-(Optional) Use a high quality pressure washer hose that does not kink. The one that came with my machine was junk.
-Don't use a kinked garden hose, this could easily damage the pump. (very important)
-Keep the pressure washer hose clean, do not let the quick disconnects touch the ground.
-Don't leave the pressure washer turned on unattended. Running the pressure washer in bypass mode for a few minutes is not good for the longevity of the pump. The compression from the pump heats the water as it loops around. Once the water reaches 145f the thermal relief valve will expel the hot water. The rapid temperature change from hot to cold water can damage parts!
-Change the pump oil every 50 hours of use or once a year, whichever occurs first. Use pump oil recommended by the manufacturer.
-Use 4-Cycle TruFuel instead of regular gas. (You can find this at Lowes or Home Depot). Note I don't use my pressure washer all the time. Sometimes it can sit for about 3-5 months. Regular 87 octane contains ethanol which is death to small engines sitting for long periods of time. Yes this stuff is kinda expensive, but you can leave the gas inside the engine forever! Regular 87 octane and fuel stabilizer still need to be drained every season or you risk gumming up the small jets inside the carburetor (I've had issues in the past).
-(Optional) Don't use the standard chemical injector with cleaning detergents. Use a Downstream Chemical Kit, Low Pressure placed on the outlet side of the pump. I don't want cleaning solutions to go though my pump (It can potentially reduce the life of the pump). Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but I don't want to buy another pump!
Prior to Each Use
1. Check engine oil and fuel levels (I change my engine oil about every 5-6 months)
2. Check the inlet filter screen (where your garden hose attaches to the pump) make sure the screen is clean and intact, if not replace it!
3. Make sure pressure washer hose & quick disconnects are clean prior to connecting. (I use WD-40 on the quick disconnects sometimes)
4. Connect high-pressure and garden hoses to the pump, turn the garden hose on. Inspect the inlet and outlet of the pump for leaks. My pressure washer has quick disconnects at the inlet and outlet of the pump. Sometimes quick disconnect o-rings go bad and causes leaks (you should not see any leaks). I recommend keeping some spare o-rings handy. A worn out o-ring will cause the pressure washer to run at low psi.
5. Run some water through the gun
6. Turn the pressure washer on
After each use:
1. If you use the pump's chemical injector with any cleaning detergents, flush it out with clean water for 2 minutes.
2. Relieve the pressure in the system (Press and hold spray-gun trigger until all water remaining in the line is expelled.
3. Disconnect high-pressure and garden hoses from pump, and detach high-pressure hose from spray gun.
4. Empty the pump of remaining water. With the machine turned off, pull the recoil handle 6 times. A small amount of water will leak from the pump's water outlet. (very important you do this last step)
Water left inside the pump can attract insects, grow mold, and produce bacteria.